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Old 09-12-2008, 09:57 PM   #1
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Winterizing

While browsing through winterizing tips I notice many people simply drain and bypass the water heater. Is draining sufficient enough and is there any reason why you should not have antifreeze in the water heater? Thanks to all replies.
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Old 09-12-2008, 10:03 PM   #2
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If there is no water in it then I don't think you need antifreeze.. A tiny bit in the bottom isn't going to do anything except expand into the empty space of the water heater... Just make sure there is none in the lines.....

But on the other hand Better safe than sorry...

sorry not much help....
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Old 09-12-2008, 11:25 PM   #3
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I've set my valves incorrectly at times and the system attempted to fill the water heater. That takes a heckuva lot of antifreeze! Draining the water heater will leave a bit of water in the bottom. That tank is pretty tough to take the temperatures and potentially mild pressure spikes during regular operation. It will do just fine if a thin layer left in the bottom freezes.
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Old 09-13-2008, 07:31 AM   #4
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While browsing through winterizing tips I notice many people simply drain and bypass the water heater. Is draining sufficient enough and is there any reason why you should not have antifreeze in the water heater? Thanks to all replies.
Bimpy,
Bypassing and draining the water heater tank is sufficient, antifreeze in the tank is not necessary. After draining, put the plug back in only a few turns. There is no need to tighten it. If you want it to drain a little faster, just open the pressure / temperature safety valve. Just remember to tighten it at the beginning of the next season.
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Old 09-13-2008, 08:35 AM   #5
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Water heater bypass & recyled antifreeze

Quote:
Originally Posted by bimpy View Post
While browsing through winterizing tips I notice many people simply drain and bypass the water heater. Is draining sufficient enough and is there any reason why you should not have antifreeze in the water heater? Thanks to all replies.
If you do not have a bypass installed already, it takes a little work to put one in. In the case of my 71 I did'nt because is was too tight to easily put in a bypass..

I don't see any reason why antifreeze from the water heater and lines can't be reused as long as it is not diluted. Thoughts?
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Old 09-13-2008, 08:41 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimpy View Post
While browsing through winterizing tips I notice many people simply drain and bypass the water heater. Is draining sufficient enough and is there any reason why you should not have antifreeze in the water heater? Thanks to all replies.
There is no need for the antifreeze to be in anything even the pipes. The antifreeze is used to displace the water in the system. Once it runs red you can then drain it out, as all the water has been removed. No need to have the lines full of antifreeze all winter.
Also if you are leaving it in all winter, put a small amount in a container and try to freeze it in your home freezer. Last year I had defective antifreeze that froze and pulled apart a copper line, so this year I will test it first and then drain it early.
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Old 09-13-2008, 09:38 AM   #7
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Hmm- I think I'll just drain all the water out (opening all faucets and drains, and tipping the trailer both ways) and skip the anti-freeze part. Will also try to plunge water out of the sink trap and make sure WH is drained. I had some residual water in the shower hose last winter, which froze and split it- so if your hose is sagging in a "U" shape, disconnect it and drain it! -tim
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Old 09-13-2008, 05:46 PM   #8
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Hmm- I think I'll just drain all the water out (opening all faucets and drains, and tipping the trailer both ways) and skip the anti-freeze part. Will also try to plunge water out of the sink trap and make sure WH is drained. I had some residual water in the shower hose last winter, which froze and split it- so if your hose is sagging in a "U" shape, disconnect it and drain it! -tim
Tphan,
I think skipping antifreeze is just looking for trouble. After draining the water you can ues one of these fittings (that attaches to the city water inlet) and an air compressor and blow the lines out.


But seeing where you live I woud still fill the system with antifreeze. To keep the sink and shower traps from freezing simply pour a cup or two of antifreeze down the drains.
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Old 09-15-2008, 10:51 AM   #9
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Tphan,
I think skipping antifreeze is just looking for trouble. After draining the water you can ues one of these fittings (that attaches to the city water inlet) and an air compressor and blow the lines out.


But seeing where you live I woud still fill the system with antifreeze. To keep the sink and shower traps from freezing simply pour a cup or two of antifreeze down the drains.
I appreciate the suggestions, and have also read the entire thread "Winterizing tips", along with my Owners Manual, contents and warning labels of RV antifreeze, and this from Wikipedia: "Propylene glycol is "generally recognized as safe" by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for use in food. However, propylene glycol-based antifreeze should not be considered safe for consumption. In the event of accidental ingestion, emergency medical services should be contacted immediately."
I'll stick with "Air" as a replacement for the water in my PEX lines, tanks, traps, filter, and pump, and leave the pink stuff on the shelf of Big Bob's RV Supercenter, right next to the Septic Solutions and other yummy beverages.
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Old 09-23-2008, 01:10 PM   #10
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Not on mine!

I thought this was going to be a great deal when I bought it last year...The problem was my water inlet doesn't have threads! It's as smooth as a babies bottom inside. We have a 1976 31' Sovereign. I was trying to put it when the potable water goes..is that correct? Needless to say our lines froze and we are pexing the whole trailer. I'll figure somthing out this winter even if I have to hold a rag around it!
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Tphan,
I think skipping antifreeze is just looking for trouble. After draining the water you can ues one of these fittings (that attaches to the city water inlet) and an air compressor and blow the lines out.


But seeing where you live I woud still fill the system with antifreeze. To keep the sink and shower traps from freezing simply pour a cup or two of antifreeze down the drains.
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Old 09-23-2008, 01:58 PM   #11
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For nine years, now, I drain the lines, drain and bypass the water tank, blow out the lines with compressed air and put a small amount of rv antifreeze down each drain. That's all AS Customer Service said they do in Ohio and my trailers have survived 9 Wyoming winters with no problems.
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Old 09-23-2008, 02:00 PM   #12
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I thought this was going to be a great deal when I bought it last year...The problem was my water inlet doesn't have threads! It's as smooth as a babies bottom inside. We have a 1976 31' Sovereign. I was trying to put it when the potable water goes..is that correct? Needless to say our lines froze and we are pexing the whole trailer. I'll figure somthing out this winter even if I have to hold a rag around it!
The fitting in question is attached to the city water inlet.Air pressure should be between 40 and 60lbs.I believe it's best to keep toilet valve open.
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Old 09-23-2008, 07:30 PM   #13
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MY BAD!....No wonder it didn't work! I guess I will buy another one for this winter and put it in the right place. That would help I suppose.
Thanks for the input...
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The fitting in question is attached to the city water inlet.Air pressure should be between 40 and 60lbs.I believe it's best to keep toilet valve open.
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Old 09-23-2008, 09:59 PM   #14
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Hmm- I think I'll just drain all the water out (opening all faucets and drains, and tipping the trailer both ways) and skip the anti-freeze part. Will also try to plunge water out of the sink trap and make sure WH is drained. I had some residual water in the shower hose last winter, which froze and split it- so if your hose is sagging in a "U" shape, disconnect it and drain it! -tim
TPHAN.... If you drain the water out of the traps you will get odors coming into your trailer from your gray water tank. I would definitly put antifreeze into the sink and shower traps. I've been winterizing my sailboat for the past 24 years and alway put some antifreez in the water heater and have never had a problem. Its cheap insurance to drop 1/3 to 1/2 gal of antifreez in the water heater at $3.50 a gallon, rather than replace a water heater that froze up.
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