hi we need to winterize our a/s and want to know if it is safe to go to a place like camping world for this or a local sob place. is there anything special that we need to have done???? we are newbies and don't want to make a mistake.
a dealer is too far for us to go right now.
thanks so much for your help.
Check out some of the other threads on winterizing, buy yourself a compressor and do it yourself! Two seasons will pay for the compressor and you will have the satisfaction of knowing the job was done right. It is really not that hard to do.
thanks for quick reply. we are not able physically at this time to do it so thought we could have someone else do it.
our weather here has been in the 40's and we will not use a/s untilfirst part of dec and then after christmas. i have mixed feelings about what to do. any expert advice will be
appreciated.
Most RV service centers will do this for you and do a good job......best is an Airstream dealer if available or a certified AS repair location......Good luck.
In the meantime turn your furnace on at a low setting for those below 32 degree nights. I leave mine on at 45 degrees inside when there is danger of a freeze, until I winterize for the Jan-March times.
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Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
Check ahead of time that whoever does your winterizing will guarantee against any freeze damage. I have heard from a lot of people who had a bad job done which resulted in broken lines and got an oh well response from the rv guy.
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Like a couple of Balboas we headed into the wild pavement of yonder with a monstous piece of aluminum hooked to our rear end. "The Long, Long Trailer".
We have a 23' International and am wondering if anybody has simple directions to installing an RV antifreeze winterizing hose in the access space by the water pump. I have used an old pump attached to a scrap of plywood. Using the installed pump would be a lot more convenient.
Maybe this comment is more appropriate for next year. Bottom line, I think it is a waste to pay a dealer to do a job that is easily done yourself. Besides, when you carefully follow the below steps, you KNOW it's done right and won't ever have to hear excuses from a dealer when something freezes because a worker was in a huge hurry.
I've found the best and easiest way to prepare for winter is to go to a truck stop when you're returning from your last trip of the season. Truck stops have free, powerful air that you can take your time in using. This is much better than those poor quality, "stick in the quarters" compressors at gas stations.
Purchase a water pressure protector from a RV shop. These cost about $7. Also purchase a air hose adapter that is intended to to be screwed into the city water supply port on your trailer. You will screw the air hose adapter into the pressure protector, not the city water supply as described below.
(1) Carefully drain, on level ground, the fresh, gray and black tanks.
(2) Before you go to the air hose at the truck stop, use a racket set to remove the water heater plug and drain the water heater. When the water starts to flow after the plug is removed, I quickly hold a 1" diameter, one foot long cheap plastic hose to the plug port so that water doesn't touch the surrounding electrical parts.
(3) Next, follow the directions in your Airstream users manual to by-pass the water heater. The above steps are very, very easy.
(4) screw the air hose adapter into the air pressure regulator or protector and then screw this assembly into the city water supply port. The reason I recommend a pressure protector is to make absolutely sure that you don't use more than 65-70 psi. On the other hand, you are going to a truck stop because cheap air compressors that you buy aren't likely to give you the confidence that you have completely blown all the water from the lines. You want full 65 psi air and LOTS OF IT.
(5) insert the air hose from the truck stop into the air hose adapter assembly described and open one faucet at a time and allow air to blow all the water out. Take your time, don't be in a hurry. Remember to switch the faucets from cold to hot so you get all the air out. Be sure to get all water valves--the outside shower, kitchen faucet (don't forget the sprayer), bath faucet, inside shower, and the toilet valve!
I've found that it's handy if your spouse operates the air hose while the most knowledgable person drains the valves. You can easily see the water blow out the faucet or sprayer heads and know when all water is out.
This only takes about ten minutes.
Next, pour about 8 ounces of a 50/50 mixture of RV anti-freeze and water into the bath sink and kitchen sink. RV anti-freeze is sold at a reasonable price at all Wal-mart SuperCenters I've seen. This protects the "P' drain pipe.
After I get home, I also pour 15-20 ounces of RV anti-freeze into all the tanks when the unit is finally parked. This is just in case not every last drop of water drained from the tanks.
At the beginning of the next season, flush the RV-anti-freeze out of the fresh water tank. Because it is RV anti-freeze, there is no danger of toxicity.
If you have a question, I don't mind a call at 505-988-2131. I store my trailer in the mountains of New Mexico at over 8,000 feet so I know the above steps work.
We have a 23' International and am wondering if anybody has simple directions to installing an RV antifreeze winterizing hose in the access space by the water pump. I have used an old pump attached to a scrap of plywood. Using the installed pump would be a lot more convenient.
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"Some people walk in the rain, others just get wet" - Roger Miller
"Remembering games and daisy chains and laughs" - Roger Waters Hubba - 2006 2500HD DMax............Bubba - 2007 30' Classic w/ Hensley
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Silver Cottage - Thanks. The difference will help pay for the antifreeze. As I become more experienced I should learn to check CW first on a lot of things. You and Sky are really helping a rookie get started right.