Hi all,
I have just purchased a 2002. 30' Classic w/ slide out and will be going thru my first time winterizing it soon. I am concerned about disconnecting the line(s) to the water pump. I would welcome any suggestions.
Also does anyone have an opinion on just pumping the anti freeze in via the fresh water holding tank instead of disconnecting the line at the pump?
I wouldn't pull the line off the tank. The hose tends to form around the barbs on the fitting. This helps seal and also makes it hard to remove (it is very easy to damage plastic threads).
It will probaly take 5 or 6 gallons in the tank before you get enough for the pump to prime. There is an adapter that goes inline between the pump and tank which allows you to draw antifreeze directly from the bottle, less than $15 and simple to install.
I winterized my 2002 Safari last week. I followed the instructions in the manual. I disconnected the inlet side of the pump per the instructions. My unit came with screw type connections and come apart easily. I purchased a faucet water line hose and screwed female connection on the male connection on the pump and then put the other end into the jug of RV antifreeze. I found that part of the process to be well designed by Airstream. The hard part on my unit is the access to the pump through the kick plate below the wardrobe. You have to bend the panel and slip it by some trim. Apparently other models have better access doors.
To disconnect a waterline on a 2002 model is very simple. They come with a AquaJet Pump that is made by Aquatech. The fitting is put into the pump and a slide lock holds it in. If you look at the pump you will see there is one on the pressure side and suction side. Or simply unscrew it from its fitting no barb there as well.
Just slide that lock fitting forward and you can disconnect the pump.
Follow Airstreams instruction that are in the owners manual or go to there web page www.airstream.com and look at there FAQ page under misc question it can walk you through it there as well..
I am a bit confused on how to locate the water pump on a 2003 22ft. International CCD. The winterizing instructions and many posts in the forums talk about disconnecting the inlet side to pump antifreeze through the pump. I cannot find the pump to do this. The manual isn't clear at all. Any suggestions?
Hi scubadog -- and welcome to the Forums! There are 2 sticky threads that walk through the process in the Winterizing and Winter Living subforum (sticky threads stay at the top, signified by the push pin on the web link above). One does have to install a bypass valve so you can pull pink RV antifreeze directly out of the jug.
Where do you think you hear your pump when you run water? Mine is behind a cabinet panel at floor level. The panel has no handle or suggestion it can be removed. Out of sight hardware allows the panel to be removed with little more than fingertips pulling on both sides. I'd suspect yours is somewhere along the roadside behind the fridge but in front of the shower.
Bob,
Would you mind correcting your link?? It comes up with this message..
Invalid Forum specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator
Thanks.. This is the week to winterize my unit..
"Have compressor, will travel".. I am off on my way down to Va Beach, so..behave yourself..lol
I just winterized my unit using that little gadget for the inlet side of the pump. The only thing that I dont get is even if you blow air through the lines, there still might be a sag in the line before the pump where moisture rolls back to.
How do you winterize that section of line? Also isnt there a check valve somewere in that line as well. It seems like the only way to be proof positive is to pump antifreeze from the city supply line and at the pump.
Anyone know what to do there?
Just pumping antifreeze through the system from the pump leaves some issues.
The line from the city water inlet is not drained and would still have water trapped in it.
If the trailer as an Auto Fill System that line, which is copper and most likely to brake when frozen, still has water in it and in the filter bowl.
If the hot water tank does not have a bypass valve you will need over 6 gallon of anti freeze to complete the job.
If your tariler doesn't have a hot water bypass valve install one before attempting to winterizing.
Close off the bypass, drain the hot water heater by removing the drain plug.
If you have access to compressed air make an adapter, Home Depot hose fitting, a bushing, and a shrader valve, for air to the city water inlet. While appling air open each faucte starting closest to the city water until you just see drops coming out. Now move forward through the trailer opening each faucet hot and cold, don't forget the toilet Once the system is purged of water connect a hose to the input side of the pump and pump antifreeze into the system angin opening each faucet until you see antifreeze coming out, again don't forget the toilet and bidet hose. Also if you trailer has an Auto Fill System turn it on for a few seconds as the pump is pumping to get antifreeze into the filter bowl of the auto fill.
Now pour about 8oz. of antifreeze into each trap and toilet. It will not hit to pour a little extra and let it flow to the holding tanks as some water has been displaced to them as you fill the traps.
If you do not have compressed air drain as noted above and while the drains are open use a hand pump to blow out the line from the city input. Several pumps will displace any water in that line. Now pump and pour in the antifreeze as noted above.
The whole process take me about 3/4 of anf hour once you know where things are.
Plastic piping is quite forgiving when it comes to freezing but and copper or the hot water heater tank will not be, They will brake.
Quick Links
Linear Mode
