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Old 10-05-2004, 07:24 PM   #1
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Question Winterizing...

I'm just darn worried about our first winterizing.

I think I want to have it done professionally the first time or two or three. Our dealer is four hours away -- is it safe to have it winterized by a non-airstream RV dealer? (There is one here with which we have another relationship.)


Tom (and Frank)
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Old 10-05-2004, 07:34 PM   #2
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tom, the winterizing process is not hard, do it yourself!

sure beats driving eight hours to let someone else do it!

john
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Old 10-05-2004, 07:47 PM   #3
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Thumbs up Newbies did ok


Even as newbies our first try (last year) we did OK. Searching for winterize and reading the numerous options, the on de-winterizing for the back side (also noted some details about the winterizing steps).
After this year's activity, I'll make up our check list for "good" and try to go by it in the future.
Good luck
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Old 10-05-2004, 08:35 PM   #4
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Before towing my Argosy back to a below-zero winter storm I had an East Coast AS dealer winterize my unit. It seems he did a pretty good job but hadn't drained the prefilter by the water pump, so the clear plastic shell broke and hoses drained on the floor. Not such a bad deal -- turned out the prefilter screen was in tough shape.

And the AS dealer didn't realize my water tank was half full and it sat all winter... frozen no doubt. It's pretty rugged and there was no damage. Whew! Yes, I think you can do a really good job too!!
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Old 10-05-2004, 11:03 PM   #5
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Do it yourself and you will know it was done right.
Read the threads about winterizing....make a to do list to check off as you go.
You will be fine.
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Old 10-06-2004, 07:09 AM   #6
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one start

A starting place would be the factory's check list:
http://www.airstream.com/airstream/p...interizing.pdf
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Old 10-06-2004, 07:48 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PWRSTRK
I'm just darn worried about our first winterizing...
I share your concern. My preference is to just blow the lines out, and move on. But during the restoration, I came across many water line patches, and replaced a lot of swollen copper line. It could be that cold winter snuck up on the previous owener. Or it could be that it is ultimately best to add RV antifreeze.

Anyone care to comment on their luck with just blowing out the lines with compressed air?

Thanks,
Tom
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Old 10-06-2004, 10:01 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcwilliams
Anyone care to comment on their luck with just blowing out the lines with compressed air?

Thanks,
Tom
Tom, according to my dealer the key is to use enough air pressure. The typical pressure used by 12 volt pumps, while moving out most of the liquid, can leave substantial moisture in the lines which can run back to low points. His service is set at 90 lbs. which he connects while the various valves are opened up.

From my own experience I blow out the lines with my 12 volt pump and then pump RV antifreeze through the system.

I've never had a problem in 25 years using this methodolgy and we've had temps down to -13 so I know I'm doing things right. Just make sure you open up those low water drains and get those blown out. Other water holders are shower heads, and the small bladder that is in the Thetford toilets.

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Old 10-06-2004, 10:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera
...His service is set at 90 lbs. which he connects while the various valves are opened up.
Jack

That's interesting. I assume he is hooking up at the hose fitting. On my Overlander, the water pressure regulator would throttle that down to around 45 psig. If it didn't, the relief valve would probably pop if I neglected to open a faucet.

I have shop air, so I could do 90 psi if I wanted to, but it sounds like it is best to use antifreeze even after doing a good job blowing the lines out.

Thanks,
Tom
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Old 10-06-2004, 01:40 PM   #10
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Absolutely do it yourself! It is very easy. Just follow the instructions in your manual, or an RV book, or as posted elsewhere on this site. It only takes 20 minutes and is very easy. Basically:

- drain everything I can (water tank, black and grey tanks, water heater, and water line drains)
- Put a couple gallons of RV antifreeze in the water tank
- Turn the 3 bypass valves for the water heater
- Pump the antifreeze through each faucet, the toilet, and shower until red stuff comes out. Do both hot and cold positions for each. A little extra antifreeze will protect the drains, tanks, and valves
- Done!

Perhaps you could get a little help the first time from another do-it-yourself RV owner.
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Old 10-06-2004, 01:55 PM   #11
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Tom (& Frank), my 61 point winterizing list is at http://www.airforums.com/forum...3&page=4&pp=20
Like the others have said, just learn to do it, and you'll know it's done right. Just take your time on the first attempt. The fitment that allows you to pump antifreeze through the system is a great addition. Be brave! Nick.
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Old 10-06-2004, 02:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmac
- Put a couple gallons of RV antifreeze in the water tank
- .
The only caution to this is understanding how much residule water remains in the tank when it finishes draining. If there is water in there, it will dilute your antifreeze and your freeze point will be higher. Prior to purchasing my Classic, I used to put 2 or 3 gallons in the water tank. I also very rarely used that tank and from what I could tell, it was almost completly dry. But be aware since all fresh water tank drains do not sit at the absolute bottom of the tank.

Regards,

Jack
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Old 10-06-2004, 02:17 PM   #13
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Tom/Frank.... if you all would like a hand winterizing your Safari, send me a PM, I've done it 2x so far and both times the camper survived the Chicago winters (though last winter was fairly mild around here).

You are right down the street from us.
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Old 10-06-2004, 02:39 PM   #14
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...also, if you are referring to the Airstream dealer here in Illinois...I wouldn't take my go-cart to him.
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