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Old 11-07-2013, 03:29 PM   #21
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I pick up my new trailer in 1 week...I live in Birmingham AL...each winter is a bit different...overnight can at times freeze...I am hoping to not bother winterizing really...but then again it can reach freezing temps overnight...but not often....hmmm....my AS neighbors (allison and rhett) do winterize, although I think just blow out water and some other step (I forget)....
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Old 11-07-2013, 05:09 PM   #22
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I have no problem here in the NE with blowing out the water. That should work in any climate. The pex plumbing is much more forgiving than copper but if the water is blown and drained fully neither will freeze. In the case of Alabama where you may get a freeze but NOT a deep freeze perhaps you could get away with just having a thermostatically controlled electric heater inside. If you have a filter element I would plan to remove that. You will probably want to install a new one next season anyway. Running the pump for a few seconds with the lines off is a good idea since such a small volume of water held in it would be the first to freeze. I wrap an absorbent towel around the outlet and run it to evacuate as much water as possible. I've had no problems here in the NE.
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Old 11-07-2013, 06:53 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Goal15 View Post
That's good to know about the water pump, I winterized Saturday using the exact same method but did not think about water being left in the pump. but used the same method last year and it worked fine, although I forgot to drain the filter under the sink and it froze and broke. Still haven't been able to get the model number for that Moen filter from JC. They wanted me to send a photo of what I was talking about. I don't think it was an after market add on.

Dana
We had a 2011 FC 23FB and the filter was a Moen 9601. Matter of fact I have two new ones if you're interested (if you have the same setup we had).

We're in Dallas for Thanksgiving.
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:04 PM   #24
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I had a go-around with Moen about a month ago when I couldn't find a filter for our kitchen sink faucet with the filter cartridge in the pull out handle. They no longer make faucets w/ filters so they offered to replace ours with a new, non filtering, faucet. It cost me about $50 or so. They sent it quickly and a straightforward installation and all's well. Just no more filtration at the sink.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:10 PM   #25
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Thumbs up WNY Prevention...

I've used the RCM procedure ever since getting the Classic in 2004.
(RCM= reliability centered maintenance)

After discovering just what a PITA it was to empty the closet to gain access to the pump, and getting severely scolded for not returning all the DW's "essentials" to their previous locations, this seemed like the logical solution.

I started by using 4gal but soon realized that just 2 in the tank would do the trick. I buy 3 every fall using the 3rd to pour down the drains to keep the traps full and some extra for the crapper bowl, checking several times during the Winter to make sure there is some there to keep the seals from drying out.

One minor down-side….You will spend a little more time flushing the system in the Spring. Not a serious concern for us, FW tank not used for drinking and I sanitize with bleach at Spring get-ready. Clearing the lines with compressed air speeds the process.

The RCM for Winterizing….

1) Drain FW tank, close valve.
2) Drain hot water tank and close by-pass valve.
3) Open all three low water line drains. Raise and lower tongue to assist draining.
4) Attach air compressor line to the inlet fitting for external water supply, level trailer.
5) At 60psi, clear each low water drain one at a time, keeping one line open at all times, do NOT close all lines at once with compressor connected.
6) Inside…Place shower hose in tub,open one faucet, (close LW drains), hot & cold till clear. Same for kitchen,(don't forget toilet & kitchen sprayer), and BR sink.
7) Remove compressor line, close all faucets and add antifreeze to FW tank.
8) Turn on WP, wait 'til pump stops.
9) Turn on each faucet, hot & cold 'til running nice and pink, remove kitchen faucet filter.
10) Pour a little AF in toilet.
11) Leave low water drains open

Bob
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Old 11-08-2013, 07:38 PM   #26
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Concur with RC's RCM except for No. 7.
I will never again put antifreeze into the fresh-tank.
Disconnect the pump fitting that goes to FW tank. Install the Robert Unrus device pump antifreeze* from jugs into line per No. 8 and No.9 above.
Nothing goes in my FW holding tank besides fresh water from a known source and unscented household bleach from time to time.
The only place I use RV antifreeze is in the traps and toilet.
* I use cheap vodka for antifreeze in the lines.
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Old 11-08-2013, 07:51 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, I bought this at Camping World today for about $4.00 and will possibly need to use it some day. I believe that the hose will be too short. I can fix that.
I have one of those kits too. On my FB Safari, it turns out that the pump is mounted only about 1 inch away form the inside wall of the couch base. So close, that there is not enough room for the brass tee to fit between the pump and the suction line once removed.

So I just screwed the supplied hose directly to the pump, filled with anti-freeze, and then reattached the suction line.

Looks like I am going to have to relocate the pump or might just buy one of those flex hose noise reduction kits and then put the tee on.
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Old 11-09-2013, 07:32 AM   #28
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What Wayward Said ( and Does)

I install it for winterizing and remove it when I'm done. I went to a plumbing supply and purchased a nice long tube that reaches the jug of cheap vodka sitting in the aisle outside the wardroom closet beneath which the pump sits.
It's no big deal to install and uninstall the fitting. I had to winterize three times last fall when we had early freezes interspersed with Airstream rallies and excursions.
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Old 11-09-2013, 08:10 AM   #29
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I winterized last week using the air compressor blow out method. In the middle of the night, last night, I suddenly remembered that I had not blown out the outside faucet line. Don't know why I had this sudden lightening strike but now will need to re-connect the air line and blow it out. No problem just glad I remembered before the deep freeze came. While at it I will also blow out the black tank spray line. I guess it's time to write down the steps so I won't forget the next time.
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Old 11-09-2013, 08:53 AM   #30
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When I used to winterize before heated shed I installed tee in suction line with shut off valve before tee short nipple on tee end then shut off valve barb fitting in valve long enough clear hose to reach gal of rv anti freeze close suction valve open new valve suck anti freeze thru lines, anti freeze goes into each ptrap , no extra work don't forget to remove filter cart. or replace when startup. This is done after draining fresh water tank sounds like a lot of work but is very simple to do, each fall just close suction valve open other no blowing lines etc. never had freeze up. Don't forget to by pass and drain water heater. I used pvc valves and brass fittings from big box store. This has been fail safe for me for many yrs. [Clear hose stays on valve no need to remove it]
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Old 11-09-2013, 09:02 AM   #31
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Wink

I prefer jelly donuts.....

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Old 11-09-2013, 01:10 PM   #32
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Well, I had my dealer do mine along with some warranty work. Just picked it up today.

Here are a few questions for the collective wisdom of this group:

I'll avoid the long story on the leak I have in my FW tank but they never found - they said they filled it multiple times to test and there was no water in there now as it was fully winterized. I drove it off the lot and stopped to check, the FW valve was wide open and the tank was draining in their parking lot. My questions are:

1) should I be worried there was water in the FW tank during freezing weather before I picked it up?

2) should the drain valve on the FW tank (and water heater for that matter) be wide open during the winter? Dealer says that's how it done?

3) is there any reason why red antifreeze laden water would be dripping out from the trim where my finger is pointing in the pic below? It's right behind the propane tanks at the bottom of the trailer trim. I can't imagine why, but maybe I just don't have a clue (wouldn't be the first time). Not gushing, but noticeable drops at the dealer lot and then much slower/fewer by the time I got it home (2 hrs from dealer).

Thanks!



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Old 11-09-2013, 01:39 PM   #33
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Steve,

I wouldn't worry too much about freezing if the valve was open & draining.

Leak behind the tanks...are there any lines in that area inside the AS.

Our FW tank leaked from underneath, exiting at the inspection plate. It dripped after filling. It continued until all the water in the fill and vent hoses reached tank level. Both clamps were loose at the tank...no fun tightening.

I leave everything open, all faucets H&C, low point drains, petcock on HW tank, FW tank, exterior FW hose connection & dumper valves.

Bob
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:45 PM   #34
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Thanks Bob. Not sure about lines inside the trailer. Dealer said they didn't put red goop in FW tank, so are you asking whether there's drainage from gray? I'll have to see what I can see. So leaving everything open is a good thing then....ok. That's one down! :-)
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:54 PM   #35
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... I drove it off the lot and stopped to check, the FW valve was wide open and the tank was draining in their parking lot ...
As I recall, my FW tank has a flat floor (not sloped towards the drain) and the drain is mounted as low as practical on the side wall of the tank. This means a small amount of water will remain in the tank even though the drain is open. As you drove around, the remaining water would slosh around and some of it would find the opening. Jacking up the opposite side of the trailer would get even more out, but the bottom line is that it is nearly impossible to get the tank bone dry. From a freezing standpoint that's not a problem, particularly if the valve is left open. The thin layer of water will freeze but there is so little of it, it cannot damage the tank. If the drain were left closed and water was trapped in the valve body, the valve might crack.

Come Spring when things warm up and the possibility of a freeze has past it would be good to close the valve to keep out insects that might want to take up residence in there. In addition, that warm moist environment is a great place for some types of algae and other biologicals to grow, so the sanitizing process is a good idea even if you don't expect to use the FW tank for drinking/cooking.

BTW, the water heater tank is a cylinder and the drain is not at the bottom either. It also contains a quart or more of water when drained and caused no freeze damage.
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Old 11-09-2013, 02:15 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Thanks Bob. Not sure about lines inside the trailer. Dealer said they didn't put red goop in FW tank, so are you asking whether there's drainage from gray? I'll have to see what I can see. So leaving everything open is a good thing then....ok. That's one down! :-)
Steve,

IF what your seeing is actually antifreeze....AND the dealer pumped AF thru the the lines and didn't blow them out OR leave the low point drains open afterward AND there's a leaking line inside the trailer in that area....then worry is warranted.

To many AND's & OR's...I wouldn't worry.

Bob
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Old 11-09-2013, 02:21 PM   #37
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... I leave everything open, all faucets H&C, low point drains, petcock on HW tank, FW tank, exterior FW hose connection & dumper valves. Bob
Camping World and other RV parts stores sell an accessory cap for the dump port. It looks like a big yellow salt shaker top. Its advertised features were to allow air ventilation to the GW and BW tanks through the open dump valves while in storage while keeping insects, birds and mice out. There are two opinions on the dump valves for storage. Some leave them open to insure no possibility of water accumulation and possible freeze damage. Others believe it is better to leave them closed after a thorough dumping and flushing and then pour enough pink stuff into the BW and GW tanks to flood the valves to keep their seals lubricated.
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Old 11-09-2013, 02:57 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
... is there any reason why red antifreeze laden water would be dripping out from the trim where my finger is pointing in the pic below? It's right behind the propane tanks at the bottom of the trailer trim. I can't imagine why, but maybe I just don't have a clue (wouldn't be the first time). Not gushing, but noticeable drops at the dealer lot and then much slower/fewer by the time I got it home (2 hrs from dealer). Thanks!
I'm unaware of any water lines in that area; you say it is right behind the LPG tanks... The trim line is about the same level as the floor, but a leak would more likely show up at the bottom of the wrap. A leak is always a concern, but there might be another reason for the red stuff that is not from a water leak. You said you had the trailer in for other service. Are your batteries in that vicinity? Look at the battery posts. Do you see any red stuff that may have been sprayed on them? There is a spray used by auto mechanics to coat battery posts and clamps to inhibit corrosion and it is red. It may be as simple as an accidental squirt that landed near the trim line. If not I would be very observant for water leaks come Spring when you have the trailer hooked up to your hose and under pressure.
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Old 11-09-2013, 03:14 PM   #39
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Ok, will check the batteries too. I need to remove them anyway and bring them to my basement for charging.

Can't do much of anything til spring and if first trip is to mothership, I feel good walking through it with them...
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Old 11-09-2013, 05:32 PM   #40
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FWIW - here's one frame of an iPhone video I took of one of the drops in motion. It's roughly in the center of the picture. You can see the pinkish color in the water...



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