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Old 04-11-2014, 12:27 PM   #99
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Heh heh - sounds like a good time

I'm still a tad foggy on the order of de-winterization of my pink stuff - need to write down sequence
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Old 04-11-2014, 04:10 PM   #100
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Wellllllll

Ok - hitched up last night ... Checked outside and there's a little drip at the drain plug. ... Still leaking a bit so I decided to pull it out, clean it (there was gunk on it) and re-insert it. ...
The gunk may have been plumber's putty. FYI, the official recommended plug for the Atwood water heater is the plastic type. Some prefer a nice brass plug, but there is a chance of galvanic chemistry between the dissimilar metals in the aluminum tank Atwood uses and a brass plug that could cause it to seize in the threads although I've never personally seen it happen.

I carry a couple of spare plastic plugs in case I or a fellow camper is in need when away from home. A little plumber's putty on the threads of the plug will allow a good seal without extra tightening that sometimes deforms the plug.

Most of us get our shoes wet now and then, things happen. Be happy it was clean water, spilling the very dirty water is to be avoided and will be cause for considerable mumbling by you and others.
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Old 04-11-2014, 05:24 PM   #101
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... I'm still a tad foggy on the order of de-winterization of my pink stuff - need to write down sequence

In a nutshell this is what I do. Close all faucets and low point drains, leave the drain plug out of the water heater for now (if the bypass valve(s) are set right, water won't flow into WH yet). Hook up the city water and then operate each hot and cold faucet one at a time to purge the pink stuff from each line. The galley, filtered water spigot (if you have one) and bath sink are the ones you'd like to be sure are well flushed. If you wait for the foam to stop, forget it. That will just take time before you stop seeing foam. The shower is next, then the toilet and sprayer and finally the outside faucet or shower (if you have one). I then operate each low point briefly to purge any pink that might be lurking in them.

Now for the water heater. It is not unusual for some sediment to accumulate in the bottom of the WH tank. Since the tank is a cylinder, and the drain is on the curved side, it is not at the bottom. The water that remains will freeze but will not cause any damage. Opening the bypass valve(s) with the plug out may agitate some of the sediment enough to flow out. If you want to get more out a flushing wand connected to your hose and inserted into the drain may be more effective, but honestly, some sediment probably doesn't hurt anything.

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Once you're satisfied, turn off the water, install the plug, turn the water back on and allow the WH to fill. Manually operate the brass TPM valve briefly to purge anything that might be in it then allow it to snap shut. Check for leaks.

At this point I sanitize the fresh water system with a bleach solution followed by a vinegar solution that kills the chlorine odor, followed by a final flush with fresh water. I then service the galley water filter and turn the water back on and switch on the water heater to allow it to come up to temperature and check again for leaks.
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Old 04-11-2014, 06:11 PM   #102
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Silver Goose - thanks. That's going in my checklist book for next spring. That would have saved me a bit of time and frustration. What I thought I understood was wrong. :-)
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Old 04-13-2014, 03:23 PM   #103
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Seems like it is time to think about summerizing.

The sediment in the water heater is not a big deal, though it is not bad idea to flush the heater every couple of years. You'll never get all of it out. But prevention is easy—attach a filter to the filler hose when you are on city water or fill the fresh water tank. Some silt will get through, but not much. It may even taste good.

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Old 04-13-2014, 05:35 PM   #104
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Excellent - Ill follow the instructions to a T!
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Old 04-13-2014, 05:36 PM   #105
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I guess I'll need to dump pink from black tank once all done - then add back water with tank chemical then poop
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Old 04-19-2014, 07:36 AM   #106
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Fizzing - man you were not kidding - seems like it would never stop fizzing as I flushed it - from use of the water pump only I still ain't through with this fizzle
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Old 04-23-2014, 09:35 PM   #107
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Why would I get low water pressure from the hot water side (using the pump or city water) compared to much higher pressure on the cold water side? Is it simply more piping to and through the water heater? Or do I have a leak/blockage somewhere?
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Old 04-23-2014, 09:41 PM   #108
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Hibby,

Do you have the big silver bypass valve? If you do, there is a screen in it. My brother-in-law had the same symptom in his 2011 Classic on our trip this spring. Removed the bypass valve, cleaned the screen of gunk and all was well after that.

Looks like the one on the right, up high but silver. Stole the pics from the net.

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Old 04-23-2014, 09:44 PM   #109
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I do have a bypass valve immediately prior to the water heater for winterizing, although I think it's not so big and plastic. I'll check, regardless! Thanks for the tip!
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Old 04-27-2014, 05:32 PM   #110
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If not that, check the screens in the faucets (though it would restrict both flavors in a rational world). Even with filters, specks and silt can get through and clog them up. Best to clean them every year as part of summerizing.

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Old 05-17-2014, 04:19 PM   #111
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Dznf0g,

The system I have is exactly like the photo on the right... Is there a filter or screen in that setup? I have not removed it yet.
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Old 04-10-2015, 03:44 PM   #112
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So here we are. One year later - same campground as last year at this time to dewinterize and get ready for a summer of camping.

So much more went right this time!

Unfortunately - I'm still missing something.

Getting lower flow from all 3 hot water sources and higher flow from all 3 cold water sources. Using city water not FW pump.

The picture below shows the bypass valve in line with the pipes which is what the diagram says is the position for using the HWH in season. The bypass on the bottom intersects the line - and I'm a little confused by this. When I put it in line (not as shown in the pic) I can hear the city water flow continually and I only get air out of the hot water side of the bathroom sink. I put it back in the position in the pic and I get Hot water flow back but still at say a third of what I get from cold.

Outside under the HWH there is a drain pipe that must be connected to this bottom plastic valve because there's a hole in the clay from the city water I heard flowing through. There is no external shutoff for that drain - it's clearly the valve on the floor in the pic.

I "burped" the HWH several times and still the flow from the hot side is weak.

There are many threads about taking apart the mixer valve or checking for screen gunk - but that should have an impact on hot and cold right?

The brass petcock valves (low drain valves I believe? Are closed so no water is escaping there.

I'm a little stumped. I've turned on the electricity to the water heater to see if once it's heated that changes the pressure but I think that's wishful thinking on my part.

I think if we can get through the weekend with at least enough hot water to make warm water, we'll be ok but I would love to know what's different this year from last (well - really, I'd like it all to work :-) ).

Thoughts/suggestions most welcome!!!

Thanks!

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