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Old 11-03-2013, 10:40 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, I bought this at Camping World today for about $4.00 and will possibly need to use it some day. I believe that the hose will be too short. I can fix that.
When I sell an Airstream, it doesn't convey. The one I have is solid brass. It has helped winterize four different Airstreams through the years.
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:15 PM   #16
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Bob,

I've used one for years, though I didn't pay only $4 for it. The hose should be long enough to fit into the antifreeze bottle. Glad to see winters are getting colder in southern Cal.

You can also get at CW an adapter for your compressor to screw into the city water inlet to blow out the rest of the water after you drain the system.

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Old 11-06-2013, 07:23 PM   #17
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I can't put in a valve assembly due to the fact that the pump assembly and assorted piping is right next to a wheel well. Repositioning the the pump also means having to redo some piping. Bottom line I bought the hose only. Since the fresh water inlet is a hand tight nut, it's just a matter of unscrewing that and screwing in the hose and flipping on the pump.

Jack
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:10 PM   #18
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Bob: You're right the hose is too short. You'd think they would have recognized that after reading or hearing the same complaint forever. Oh well! If you have a shower hose connected to the telephone type shower head, it is the same thread size and has the o rings already in place. It will connect directly to the input side of the pump. Just stick the other end into the anti freeze bottle and away you go. I used mine, worked great. Ron
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Old 11-07-2013, 03:48 PM   #19
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Since I've not winterized our current trailer, I had a couple of questions for the Techs at Jackson Center.

And they basically said to save some effort and forget adding antifreeze to the PEX lines.

Essentially I was told that blowing the lines, draining the water heater, and adding antifreeze to the p traps, gray and black tanks (a cup or so in each) would be sufficient. Then turn the fresh water pump on for about 10 seconds to distribute what water was in it.

I'm thinking about doing what they've told me twice. ;-)
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:24 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murreywalker View Post
Since I've not winterized our current trailer, I had a couple of questions for the Techs at Jackson Center.

And they basically said to save some effort and forget adding antifreeze to the PEX lines.

Essentially I was told that blowing the lines, draining the water heater, and adding antifreeze to the p traps, gray and black tanks (a cup or so in each) would be sufficient. Then turn the fresh water pump on for about 10 seconds to distribute what water was in it.

I'm thinking about doing what they've told me twice. ;-)
That's good to know about the water pump, I winterized Saturday using the exact same method but did not think about water being left in the pump. but used the same method last year and it worked fine, although I forgot to drain the filter under the sink and it froze and broke. Still haven't been able to get the model number for that Moen filter from JC. They wanted me to send a photo of what I was talking about. I don't think it was an after market add on.

Dana
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:29 PM   #21
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I pick up my new trailer in 1 week...I live in Birmingham AL...each winter is a bit different...overnight can at times freeze...I am hoping to not bother winterizing really...but then again it can reach freezing temps overnight...but not often....hmmm....my AS neighbors (allison and rhett) do winterize, although I think just blow out water and some other step (I forget)....
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Old 11-07-2013, 06:09 PM   #22
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I have no problem here in the NE with blowing out the water. That should work in any climate. The pex plumbing is much more forgiving than copper but if the water is blown and drained fully neither will freeze. In the case of Alabama where you may get a freeze but NOT a deep freeze perhaps you could get away with just having a thermostatically controlled electric heater inside. If you have a filter element I would plan to remove that. You will probably want to install a new one next season anyway. Running the pump for a few seconds with the lines off is a good idea since such a small volume of water held in it would be the first to freeze. I wrap an absorbent towel around the outlet and run it to evacuate as much water as possible. I've had no problems here in the NE.
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:53 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goal15 View Post
That's good to know about the water pump, I winterized Saturday using the exact same method but did not think about water being left in the pump. but used the same method last year and it worked fine, although I forgot to drain the filter under the sink and it froze and broke. Still haven't been able to get the model number for that Moen filter from JC. They wanted me to send a photo of what I was talking about. I don't think it was an after market add on.

Dana
We had a 2011 FC 23FB and the filter was a Moen 9601. Matter of fact I have two new ones if you're interested (if you have the same setup we had).

We're in Dallas for Thanksgiving.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:04 PM   #24
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I had a go-around with Moen about a month ago when I couldn't find a filter for our kitchen sink faucet with the filter cartridge in the pull out handle. They no longer make faucets w/ filters so they offered to replace ours with a new, non filtering, faucet. It cost me about $50 or so. They sent it quickly and a straightforward installation and all's well. Just no more filtration at the sink.
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Old 11-07-2013, 09:10 PM   #25
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I've used the RCM procedure ever since getting the Classic in 2004.
(RCM= reliability centered maintenance)

After discovering just what a PITA it was to empty the closet to gain access to the pump, and getting severely scolded for not returning all the DW's "essentials" to their previous locations, this seemed like the logical solution.

I started by using 4gal but soon realized that just 2 in the tank would do the trick. I buy 3 every fall using the 3rd to pour down the drains to keep the traps full and some extra for the crapper bowl, checking several times during the Winter to make sure there is some there to keep the seals from drying out.

One minor down-side….You will spend a little more time flushing the system in the Spring. Not a serious concern for us, FW tank not used for drinking and I sanitize with bleach at Spring get-ready. Clearing the lines with compressed air speeds the process.

The RCM for Winterizing….

1) Drain FW tank, close valve.
2) Drain hot water tank and close by-pass valve.
3) Open all three low water line drains. Raise and lower tongue to assist draining.
4) Attach air compressor line to the inlet fitting for external water supply, level trailer.
5) At 60psi, clear each low water drain one at a time, keeping one line open at all times, do NOT close all lines at once with compressor connected.
6) Inside…Place shower hose in tub,open one faucet, (close LW drains), hot & cold till clear. Same for kitchen,(don't forget toilet & kitchen sprayer), and BR sink.
7) Remove compressor line, close all faucets and add antifreeze to FW tank.
8) Turn on WP, wait 'til pump stops.
9) Turn on each faucet, hot & cold 'til running nice and pink, remove kitchen faucet filter.
10) Pour a little AF in toilet.
11) Leave low water drains open

Bob
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:38 PM   #26
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Concur with RC's RCM except for No. 7.
I will never again put antifreeze into the fresh-tank.
Disconnect the pump fitting that goes to FW tank. Install the Robert Unrus device pump antifreeze* from jugs into line per No. 8 and No.9 above.
Nothing goes in my FW holding tank besides fresh water from a known source and unscented household bleach from time to time.
The only place I use RV antifreeze is in the traps and toilet.
* I use cheap vodka for antifreeze in the lines.
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Old 11-08-2013, 08:51 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, I bought this at Camping World today for about $4.00 and will possibly need to use it some day. I believe that the hose will be too short. I can fix that.
I have one of those kits too. On my FB Safari, it turns out that the pump is mounted only about 1 inch away form the inside wall of the couch base. So close, that there is not enough room for the brass tee to fit between the pump and the suction line once removed.

So I just screwed the supplied hose directly to the pump, filled with anti-freeze, and then reattached the suction line.

Looks like I am going to have to relocate the pump or might just buy one of those flex hose noise reduction kits and then put the tee on.
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Old 11-09-2013, 08:32 AM   #28
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What Wayward Said ( and Does)

I install it for winterizing and remove it when I'm done. I went to a plumbing supply and purchased a nice long tube that reaches the jug of cheap vodka sitting in the aisle outside the wardroom closet beneath which the pump sits.
It's no big deal to install and uninstall the fitting. I had to winterize three times last fall when we had early freezes interspersed with Airstream rallies and excursions.
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