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Old 08-28-2018, 07:15 PM   #1
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Sheridan , California
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Winterized Today, I Think?

So it was in the 20' in the mountains this weekend and I decided to winterize our 2017, 16' Sport today. Did everything by the Owners Manual. While using compressed air to drain the water heater tank ( 60 psi minimum ) I could not eliminate a gurgling noise in the tank. That suggested to me that there was still water in the tank somewhere. Even after no more water came out of the outside tank drain there still was a gurgling noise coming from the inside cold water line going into the bottom of the tank.
See attached photo. The cold water line and the inlet to the tank which slopes downward from the bottom of the tank, form a p-trap that could trap water. How do you verify that there's not enough water left in this trap to freeze and damage something?
Need advice Click image for larger version

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Old 08-28-2018, 07:17 PM   #2
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Bypass the water heater, and run RV antifreeze through the system. Make sure you dump some antifreeze down the drains, as well.
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Old 08-28-2018, 07:58 PM   #3
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We don't use antifreeze in the supply plumbing FWIW. Totally unnecessary, but you do have to be careful with all the details.

Have you also opened all the low-point drains [LPD], and let compressed air run through them? The manual should have something on this. We have 2 hot and 2 cold LPD. It sounds as if you correctly removed the drain plug at the bottom of the water heater [accessed from exterior door/hatch to mechanical space].

Have you drained/cleaned the filter by the pump, and blown air [by mouth] back into the supply pipe coming from the water tank? [This is a detail most miss -- not necessary on all AS but good to know about IMO.]

In your photo, if you used compressed air to empty the water heater tank, removed the bottom drain plug, and then blew more air through, there should not be any water left to freeze in the low point P-trap-ish setup you asked about IMO.

After we use compressed air to winterize, we go back around and open each faucet, LPD etc. one more time , starting high and ending up with the low-point drains which send water out the bottom of the trailer.

"Measure twice, cut once!"

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Old 08-28-2018, 08:01 PM   #4
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Did you get the water out of the water pump? Even though you blow the water lines here will still be residual water in the pipes near the water pump
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Old 08-28-2018, 08:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
Bypass the water heater, and run RV antifreeze through the system. Make sure you dump some antifreeze down the drains, as well.
I have bypassed the the water heater and filled the water lines with antifreeze. The two lines in the photo ( hot and cold lines ) are located on the water heater side of the bypass valves. So there's no way to fill them with antifreeze without filling the water heater tank too.
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Old 08-28-2018, 08:19 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
We don't use antifreeze in the supply plumbing FWIW. Totally unnecessary, but you do have to be careful with all the details.

Have you also opened all the low-point drains [LPD], and let compressed air run through them? The manual should have something on this. We have 2 hot and 2 cold LPD. It sounds as if you correctly removed the drain plug at the bottom of the water heater [accessed from exterior door/hatch to mechanical space].

Have you drained/cleaned the filter by the pump, and blown air [by mouth] back into the supply pipe coming from the water tank? [This is a detail most miss -- not necessary on all AS but good to know about IMO.]

In your photo, if you used compressed air to empty the water heater tank, removed the bottom drain plug, and then blew more air through, there should not be any water left to freeze in the low point P-trap-ish setup you asked about IMO.

After we use compressed air to winterize, we go back around and open each faucet, LPD etc. one more time , starting high and ending up with the low-point drains which send water out the bottom of the trailer.

"Measure twice, cut once!"

Peter
I've done everything by the book. Lines were drained ( 2 LPDS ) and 2 drains at the front of the trailer. Water heater drain plug removed and water drained. Water pump disconnected and drained. Compressed air for about half an hour.
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Old 08-28-2018, 08:25 PM   #7
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Well sounds like everything is good. I would call service department at the dealer or at the factory; especially since it is a 2018.
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Old 08-28-2018, 08:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
We don't use antifreeze in the supply plumbing FWIW. Totally unnecessary, but you do have to be careful with all the details.

Have you also opened all the low-point drains [LPD], and let compressed air run through them? The manual should have something on this. We have 2 hot and 2 cold LPD. It sounds as if you correctly removed the drain plug at the bottom of the water heater [accessed from exterior door/hatch to mechanical space].

Have you drained/cleaned the filter by the pump, and blown air [by mouth] back into the supply pipe coming from the water tank? [This is a detail most miss -- not necessary on all AS but good to know about IMO.]

In your photo, if you used compressed air to empty the water heater tank, removed the bottom drain plug, and then blew more air through, there should not be any water left to freeze in the low point P-trap-ish setup you asked about IMO.

After we use compressed air to winterize, we go back around and open each faucet, LPD etc. one more time , starting high and ending up with the low-point drains which send water out the bottom of the trailer.

"Measure twice, cut once!"

Peter
The Owners Manual had an extra precaution page for adding antifreeze to the lines. We live in Wyoming where it gets very cold. Last year, our first winter with the Sport, got down to -30. Followed the same procedures as this year. Nothing was damaged this Spring. Must have done things correctly. But I don't recall hearing any gurgling in the tank while blowing it out last year.
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Old 08-28-2018, 08:35 PM   #9
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My guess you will be OK. Pex tubing expands some, and unless there is a lot of water should it freeze it will expand side ways first. Is disconcerting though.
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Old 08-28-2018, 08:36 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Daquenzer View Post
Did you get the water out of the water pump? Even though you blow the water lines here will still be residual water in the pipes near the water pump
I disconnected the inlet and outlet side of the pump and ran the pump to dicharge about a cup of water. Also removed the small filter between the pump and water tank. Cleaned the filter.
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Old 08-28-2018, 08:45 PM   #11
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If you are unsure about the two lines going into the water heater, you could open the bypass valves and let the antifreeze that is already in the other pipe drain/backflow (by gravity) into the HW tank. Remove the drain plug from the HW tank again to see if pink runs out. If it does you know any remaining water has been flushed through.
No need to add more AF into the pipes. Air don't freeze ;-)

ps: don't forget the flexible hose at the kitchen sink sprayer
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Old 08-28-2018, 08:58 PM   #12
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Winterizing so soon? Forget what everyone had said...move to a lower elevation near Palm Springs. Being serious, good advise above, especially the posters with a gold rivet by their pin name. How does one get a gold rivet ...streaminwild likes gold.
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Old 08-28-2018, 09:07 PM   #13
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<<snip>> How does one get a gold rivet ...streaminwild likes gold.
for mo-shiny-rivets (and more)
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f138...nts-20812.html
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Old 08-28-2018, 09:08 PM   #14
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I think you are good, I have heard the gurgling noise and have never had a problem winterizing my 16ft.
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