Winterized Today, I Think?

[OTRA15]

Could we please put this antifreeze debate to rest once and for all, and drive the last nail in the coffin?

Antifreeze is only needed where you have to replace water that was not removed!

If the entire plumbing system is full of only air, there is by definition no water remaining, and thus no need for antifreeze.

Seems so obvious . . .



If you can pump antifreeze into the pipes, why can't you pump air into the same pipes, and be done with the whole process?




Awaken!

[OTRA15]

PS —



Have a good Labor Day weekend!

Peter

[Airabel]

So as a last resort I dug out the WH owners manual and ( after the fact ) read it's Winterization procedure. Luckily everything I did was still by the book.
WH owners manual did indicate that about 2 quarts of water would remain in the WH after the blowout. Hence the gurgling sound I hope.
As an additional precaution I think I'll crack the cold water side of the bypass valve to allow a little antifreeze to go into the p-trap at the bottom of the WH. As suggested earlier.
Thanks for all of the good advice.

[JJTX]

"winterizing" what's all this talk about winter?

December 25? Perfect camping weather in TX.



...fortunately all I have to do is run the heater for the two days it gets below freezing here, a year. I might burn half a tank of propane.

[Airabel]

Originally Posted by JJTX

"winterizing" what's all this talk about winter?

December 25? Perfect camping weather in TX.



...fortunately all I have to do is run the heater for the two days it gets below freezing here, a year. I might burn half a tank of propane.

25 degrees last weekend in the Bighorn Mountains.

[JJTX]

Originally Posted by Airabel

25 degrees last weekend in the Bighorn Mountains.

I love the Rocky mtns. But my trailer would stay in TX in the winter months.

[tjdonahoe]

I use anitifreeze after blowing it out with a very large compressor.....I t can get cold in Montana.....never had a problem

[Airabel]

Airstream responded to my questions and was kind enough to send the attached diagram with an explanation of how the WH works. Very helpful.

[OTRA15]

Pretty much like every other propane-fired water heater in all of our houses, RV's and trailers IMO.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Storage_water_heater
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relief_valve

Glad you got it sorted out, have a great Labor Day weekend!

Peter

[Silvr_Bullet]

Originally Posted by Airabel

So as a last resort I dug out the WH owners manual and ( after the fact ) read it's Winterization procedure. Luckily everything I did was still by the book.
WH owners manual did indicate that about 2 quarts of water would remain in the WH after the blowout. Hence the gurgling sound I hope.
As an additional precaution I think I'll crack the cold water side of the bypass valve to allow a little antifreeze to go into the p-trap at the bottom of the WH. As suggested earlier.
Thanks for all of the good advice.

I syphon the remaining water ( mostly ) with a flexible small diameter vinyl tube inserted in the HWH drain plug, I yield a quart or so using this method. It bothered me when I read water remains in the heater.

[Airabel]

Originally Posted by Silvr_Bullet

I syphon the remaining water ( mostly ) with a flexible small diameter vinyl tube inserted in the HWH drain plug, I yield a quart or so using this method. It bothered me when I read water remains in the heater.

It bothered me too but... Too late now, lows suppose to in the 10's this week in Wyoming.
WH wintered OK last year and got down into the -20's.

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by Airabel

It bothered me too but... Too late now, lows suppose to in the 10's this week in Wyoming.
WH wintered OK last year and got down into the -20's.

The remaining water in the HW tank can freeze solid and expand without damaging anything.
Since the bottom of the WH tank is rounded and there is nothing but air above the water, the expansion can move freely upward.

85 each afternoon the rest of the week, here in FL

[Coalman]

All good information from everyone, the beauty of a technical forum. I live in Colorado, it gets cold, enough said. I have a 2018 FC 25.

My simple and always effective winterizing includes: no need for blowing water out lines with air. Use antifreeze via water pump in lines, it does not freeze.

1. Open LPD, open all faucets, toilets shower heads, drain water tank and water heater, close water heater bypass, open PRV a couple of times. Siphon water from bottom of water heater,

2. Close all water faucets, drain valves, shower heads, etc. Connect hose to water pump and 1 gallon RV AF jug.

3. Turn on water pump and open shower head, when pink AF comes out close valve.

4. Repeat step 3 with all water outlets including outside shower. Dump a cup of AF in all p-traps and in water tank. Dump 2 cups down toilet and gray water drain. Let small amount of pink AF drain out LPD.

5. Put a bucket under gray and black water dump valve. Open dump valves separately until pink comes out then close valve. Dump bucket into house toilet.

6. Top up batteries with distilled water, Charge batteries to full 12.7vdc. Disconnect negative lead from battery.

You are good to go until spring. Camp often and long fellow AS'r

Coalman
WBCCI 04612

[JJTX]

Originally Posted by Coalman

All good information from everyone, the beauty of a technical forum. I live in Colorado, it gets cold, enough said. I have a 2018 FC 25.

My simple and always effective winterizing includes: no need for blowing water out lines with air. Use antifreeze via water pump in lines, it does not freeze.

1. Open LPD, open all faucets, toilets shower heads, drain water tank and water heater, close water heater bypass, open PRV a couple of times. Siphon water from bottom of water heater,

2. Close all water faucets, drain valves, shower heads, etc. Connect hose to water pump and 1 gallon RV AF jug.

3. Turn on water pump and open shower head, when pink AF comes out close valve.

4. Repeat step 3 with all water outlets including outside shower. Dump a cup of AF in all p-traps and in water tank. Dump 2 cups down toilet and gray water drain. Let small amount of pink AF drain out LPD.

5. Put a bucket under gray and black water dump valve. Open dump valves separately until pink comes out then close valve. Dump bucket into house toilet.

6. Top up batteries with distilled water, Charge batteries to full 12.7vdc. Disconnect negative lead from battery.

You are good to go until spring. Camp often and long fellow AS'r

Coalman
WBCCI 04612

Very good list.

I am a believer in smart battery tenders and leave one connected to the trailer at all times, and the trailer in 'store' mode. I can park the trailer at home, unlike many with bigger trailers.

If your trailer location does not have power, you can even use a solar powered one and it'll keep it topped off if its charged fully prior to storage.

It got down to 24'F two days ago. Very unusual. I drove to the dealer and put a little extra antifreeze in the water lines just to be sure. I wouldn't have slept at all if I didnt. Even though I already put some in on thursday, I was not expecting the low 20s.

The only reason I went with A/freeze is because its sitting at the dealer. Normally, I will just run the heater and blow out with air and skip the antifreeze down here in south TX because we will use the trailer in the winter, and I dont want to fuss with the a/freeze flushing.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by Coalman

. . .
. . . Top up batteries with distilled water, Charge batteries to full 12.7vdc. Disconnect negative lead from battery.

You are good to go until spring.
. . .

Most standard batteries would not keep a charge >50% for 4-6 months IMO. If the charge drops below this level, and the battery is subjected to freezing, permanent damage could occur.

Avoiding antifreeze has been covered in lots of other posts.

No thanks to the chemicals!

[JJTX]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Most standard batteries would not keep a charge >50% for 4-6 months IMO. If the charge drops below this level, and the battery is subjected to freezing, permanent damage could occur.

Avoiding antifreeze has been covered in lots of other posts.

No thanks to the chemicals!

Lots of threads means lots of ideas. Least of my concerns on a Forum.

The chemicals were not my first choice, but I had to in a pinch. It may be the only time I ever do it as in the future I will not be fixing things under warranty right after purchasing.

Service will happen when its a bit warmer in the future for me. So that, in the winter, I can keep it here and heated, lines blown out vs antifreeze.

[Wyo Silver]

I agree with OTRA15, no chemicals. Plus when I get ready to go in the spring, I don't spend any time trying to get rid of that taste.

I always blow out the lines with air and I am in Wyoming where it tends to get cold. Whether 31.9 or negative 30, it does not matter as long as it stays below 32 long enough to freeze the water contained in the plumbing.

If using air, the lines do not have to be totally void of water (although I try to get close just to be safe). Does anyone remember ice cube trays from before we had the icemakers in our fridges? How many of those do you remember freezing and breaking? If the water is low enough in a rounded container (ice cube tray, pipe, water heater, etc.) so that it can slide up as it is expanding, it will not cause damage.

[JJTX]

Originally Posted by wyo

I agree with OTRA15, no chemicals. Plus when I get ready to go in the spring, I don't spend any time trying to get rid of that taste.

I always blow out the lines with air and I am in Wyoming where it tends to get cold. Whether 31.9 or negative 30, it does not matter as long as it stays below 32 long enough to freeze the water contained in the plumbing.

If using air, the lines do not have to be totally void of water (although I try to get close just to be safe). Does anyone remember ice cube trays from before we had the icemakers in our fridges? How many of those do you remember freezing and breaking? If the water is low enough in a rounded container (ice cube tray, pipe, water heater, etc.) so that it can slide up as it is expanding, it will not cause damage.

Correct.

[Silvr_Bullet]

Originally Posted by wyo

I agree with OTRA15, no chemicals. Plus when I get ready to go in the spring, I don't spend any time trying to get rid of that taste.



I always blow out the lines with air and I am in Wyoming where it tends to get cold. Whether 31.9 or negative 30, it does not matter as long as it stays below 32 long enough to freeze the water contained in the plumbing.



If using air, the lines do not have to be totally void of water (although I try to get close just to be safe). Does anyone remember ice cube trays from before we had the icemakers in our fridges? How many of those do you remember freezing and breaking? If the water is low enough in a rounded container (ice cube tray, pipe, water heater, etc.) so that it can slide up as it is expanding, it will not cause damage.

May be better if we have below freezing ‘continuously’ without any thaw / freeze cycles. I would think that scenario would increase the possibility of freeze damage. Weather to order!

[Coalman]

OTRA15. Thanks for your reply, no chemicals, got it. I have another battery related question I need some help with. For winter storage of camper (Dallas, tx) I have read that I should disconnect negative cable from battery post(s) to insure battery(s) will not drain over the winter due to power thieves devices. Any thoughts. I have two wet cell 12v batteries.