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Old 09-24-2005, 10:42 AM   #15
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2004 19' International CCD
Chicago , Illinois
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I don't think you'd want to use a brass fitting in the water heater becaause of the dis-simular metals will not play well with each other.


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Old 09-24-2005, 10:45 AM   #16
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1992 29' Excella
madison , Wisconsin
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wouldn't waste the effort, the water heater manual for mine states that the small amount of water left in the heater will freeze without harming anything.

if a person really wanted to get fancy, one could install a ball valve for draining the heater.

just pulling the plug works fine for me.


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Old 09-24-2005, 11:00 AM   #17
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2004 25' Safari
. , Illinois
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No, don't try to fill the hot tank via the drain plug.

What I meant was that I personally pull the nylon plug (and open the pressure valve) on the heater, drain the heater tank. Then what I do is take a hose assembly I built out of hose and PVC fittings is a bypass for the fresh water pump. I disconnect the fresh pump from the fresh tank and I simply prime the line, the pump sucks in antifreeze right out of the antifreeze gallon jugs and while I am flowing it through the cold lines, and the hot lines, I then turn off the by-pass on the water heater and let some of the antifreeze enter the water heater tank.

I then button up the heater, replace the fresh pump to the fresh tank, place a bit of antifreeze into the fresh tank....and this is now all done after I hook my air compressor to the city water connection and blow out all the lines and heater tank.

In the spring, I hook up the Safari to the city water (with an inline filter in place) and flush the heck out of everything, then fill and drain the fresh tank a few times. I then place the right bleach per gallon mixutre into the fresh tank, flow that through all the plumbing and let it sit for the appropriate time. I then again flush the heck out of all plumbing and blow out all the remaining water in the plumbing with the compressor so that it's clean and ready for use. This seems to work well. I had the Bambi outdoor in below zero temps, and although the Safari hasn't really seen similar temps, it has also served this coach well too.

As John said, it's prob not required, but it also can't hurt and since I've already gone through all the trouble, it only takes a few extra minutes.

Your mileage may vary.
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Old 09-24-2005, 01:14 PM   #18
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2004 30' Classic Slideout
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Originally Posted by LowellN
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I thought of partially removing the WH but I don't think it would do a whole lot of good. It's located on the curb side aft of the wheels. On the inside it goes into the cabinet/toilet area of the side bath. Looks totally unaccessable from the inside. I think I'll try the hand pump method this year. What type of pump did you use Jack? Where did you get it? Thanks again for the help guys, it's much appreciated, it'll soon be time to do the winterizing.

Well I bought mine over 20 years ago from Camping World. I didn't know if they still made them but guess again. Here is a link to the page....

Antifreeze Pump

Just do it the way I described and you should be in good shape. Let me know if you have any other questions.



Jack Canavera
AIR #56
'04 Classic 30' S.O.,'03 GMC Savana 2500,'14 Honda CTX 700
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