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Old 09-17-2013, 07:51 AM   #99
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One of the techs at Airstream in J.C., told me, a couple of years ago, that Airstream only blows the water lines dry; no antifreeze.

I'm a little further south, so I take the extra step to add antifreeze to the process.

That said, I've not winterized my new 25. Can anyone tell me if the bypass kit fits the intake on the 25's water pump?

TIA
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:28 AM   #100
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Hardly an "oversight" by Airstream......

The owners manual that came with both my Airstream trailers clearly told a way to winterize without using anit-freeze in the freshwater tank or pumping the water lines full of it.

The "oversight" is when owners fail to read their owners manual.....

Check your owners manual out.
Oh, I've read it but obviously some of us want to go a step beyond the air method, or don't own a pump that provides a sufficient amount of air to absolutely dry out the water system. I think RV antifreeze has a place in the process and for my peace of mind. I don't have any concerns that we didn't get all the water out of the system when I follow up the blowing out process with the antifreeze.
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Old 09-18-2013, 02:18 PM   #101
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Our trailer did not come with a bypass for the pump. Also the pump was installed so it was nearly impossible to access the filter on the pump to make sure it is clean. I complained to Airstream and they arranged, long ago, to turn the pump around and install the bypass kit I had purchased. Later I mounted the pump on rubber grommets to quiet it down a bit.

I believe complaints about the pump location, noise and lack of bypass go back decades. It ain't going to change anytime soon.

I don't understand whether Tom's '06 trailer came with a bypass? Our came with a bypass for the water heater, not the pump. A cost cutting company would probably avoid installing a pump bypass and given this company's history, I am surprised they had one on the water heater. Why they installed the pump backwards so the filter was so hard to get to, or couldn't use 30 worth of grommets under the pump, I don't know.

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Old 09-18-2013, 08:53 PM   #102
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Our trailer did not come with a bypass for the pump.

I don't understand whether Tom's '06 trailer came with a bypass? Our came with a bypass for the water heater, not the pump. A cost cutting company would probably avoid installing a pump bypass and given this company's history, I am surprised they had one on the water heater. Why they installed the pump backwards so the filter was so hard to get to, or couldn't use 30 worth of grommets under the pump, I don't know.

Gene
Our 06 Safari did come with a bypass. We bought it new - maybe the dealer installed the bypass. We did also have a bypass for the water heater. The water heater is standard as it is in the manual.

My 13 Classic doesn't have the pump bypass. The new configuration for the water heater bypass is a single valve, and is accessed inside the bathroom. My 06 Safari had the water bypass access from an outside storage compartment.

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Old 09-18-2013, 09:26 PM   #103
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The current Airstream trailers do not have the bypass installed because the new accepted procedure does not require it. The new procedure is as follows:


1. Disconnect the output of the water pump.

2. Get either a two foot or three foot (depending on how much you can suck) length of clear plastic tubing.

3. Insert the tubing into a jug of RV antifreeze, and suck on the other end until you can suck no more.

4. Remove the tubing from the jug and place it against the fitting you removed from the water pump.

5. Blow until you can blow no more.

6. Repeat steps 3, 4, and 5 until you have filled all the plumbing tubes and fixtures in the trailer.

7. Replace the output fitting to the water pump.

Note: This procedure was originally designed to use ethanol as an antifreeze. However for some reason, it always took more antifreeze than calculations determined the system could hold. Also step 7 was never completed. For these reasons, it is highly recommended that you use commercially available RV antifreeze.


Ken
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Old 09-18-2013, 11:27 PM   #104
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Bob doesn't take it too well when folks don't agree with his methods.

Someone asked how can you be sure you have all the water blown from the lines....I think the answer is a little bit of water never froze and busted anything.
Around here a little bit of water can do a lot of damage!
Perhaps ambient temperature & duration has an effect on the amount of damage ...YMMV ... but take a look at our concrete and cement highways where a little bit of water expands and causes major damage... not worth the risk in a $84k AS.

"Daddy, what causes pot holes ...?"
where you can sink almost out of sight...
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:42 AM   #105
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I've dodged my share....

but truth is I've never worried much about getting "potholes" inside my Airstream.
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Old 09-20-2013, 05:03 PM   #106
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Winterize RV with Compressed Air - YouTube
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Old 09-22-2013, 08:25 PM   #107
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On winterization?

Still a newbie. Haven't heard of anyone attempting to use a 10 gal. air supply tank while blowing out the water lines. Does that mean it won't work,? or we're just not that creative? I do have a small tire pump that could be hooked up to the tank at the same time. The tank would not have a pressure regulator but I suppose I could add one. What do you think? I have all the other adapters to hook into city water line etc. I would probably add anti-freeze as well living here in the frozen tundra. 1998 31ft excella classic. Thanks.
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:15 PM   #108
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Winterize RV with Compressed Air - YouTube[/url]
He doesn't show a couple of important steps. If you have a hot water heater bypass you need to activate those valves and continue blowing out the lines. There is water in the line between the valves. He also doesn't show anything about opening the low point hot and cold water drains. Those portions of the lines have water in them. Now on that RV that he demoed, it is possible that those two items may not have ben present.

Personally I wouldn't consider those lines really blown out and dry. I know my dealer who uses the air method blows out those lines for about 10 minutes at each outlet.
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:22 PM   #109
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Still a newbie. Haven't heard of anyone attempting to use a 10 gal. air supply tank while blowing out the water lines. Does that mean it won't work,? or we're just not that creative? I do have a small tire pump that could be hooked up to the tank at the same time. The tank would not have a pressure regulator but I suppose I could add one. What do you think? I have all the other adapters to hook into city water line etc. I would probably add anti-freeze as well living here in the frozen tundra. 1998 31ft excella classic. Thanks.
Quite honestly I used to blow out using a small 12 volt compressor for many, many years. Then I would follow pumping antifreeze through the lines. The antifreeze more than makes up for the deficiencies of a small pump. I wouldn't sweat the pump since it will remove the big lug of water in the lines. The antifreeze will force out the rest.

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Old 09-23-2013, 08:36 PM   #110
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Yes, using a separate air tank to blow out the lines has been suggested on various threads. I don't know how big it would have to be or what pressure would be needed since I have a compressor, but it should work through trial and error so long as the psi isn't too high. You may have to make a few trips to a compressor while you work it out.


I think Jack is right—blow out most of the water and force the drops out with antifreeze and you are good to go (actually, not go, but stop).

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Old 09-24-2013, 10:58 AM   #111
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A few drops of water in the lines or tank is not likely to bust anything.
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Old 09-24-2013, 05:32 PM   #112
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A few drops of water in the lines or tank is not likely to bust anything.
I will agree with the not likely. However it is entirely possible that a small amount of water missed during the blow out process could cause a crack that will leak. It all depends on where it is and what it will expand against. Because of how the Airstreams are constructed, accessing a very small leak could cause a whole bunch of disassembly and reassembly. Therefor, I believe that "not likely" is not good enough.

You must also consider that a small leak could cause significant collateral water damage before it is detected. The first sign of the leak could well be a very slow dripping of water from the underside of the trailer. It may take a while to notice this.

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