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Old 10-21-2012, 05:09 PM   #57
Don't forget your cat nap
 
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Ken,

It looks just like the one we have, but I guess they all look that way. Try plumbers' putty on the threads. Works better than teflon tape for leaks. Then tighten a lot, but stop before you destroy the threads and the trailer turns upside down.

Gene
Mine sealed in the tank. The valve can't be turned hard enough to shut off the flow.
Ken
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:10 PM   #58
Don't forget your cat nap
 
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Ours....


Bob
Bob,
Do you remember where you got yours?
Ken
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:25 PM   #59
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Ken,

It looks just like the one we have, but I guess they all look that way.
Now that I have looked more closely and seen Bob's, ours is not the same as Ken's. We have the Bob model. No problems with it.

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Old 10-21-2012, 06:42 PM   #60
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Looks like a radiator drain plug...try O'Reilly's or NAPA
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:04 PM   #61
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Bob,
Do you remember where you got yours?
Ken
CWorld...I did have to re-route the gas supply slightly so it would open fully.

Bob
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Old 10-22-2012, 01:08 PM   #62
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Mine looks like the one Ken posted. I put teflon thread sealer on the plug threads and the reducer threads. I did NOT seal the valve threads. Mine sealed with no problems and seemed to work fine. I had the air line hooked up since I was blowing the lines out and it sealed easily. You can tighten the reducer into the plug but the valve insert should only need to be finger tight or slightly more but not too tight. It fit in without the need to move the gas lines.
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:40 AM   #63
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I used to blow water lines in a previous trailer we owned that had a very simple water system. It had no shower, just a porta potty etc.

When moving to trailers with more elaborate systems, I read that simply blowing the lines "could" lead to problems. inasmuch as some water could remain in the piping and after blowing, might make its way back to a low point and would freeze. If enough accumulated broken pipes could result.

I'm not sure if that is valid or not, but I have decided ever since to use antifreeze. I don't bother blowing the system first.

Costs me maybe a gallon and a half of plumbing antifreeze and easy to do using the existing 12v pump - which itself is then protected as well as the fliter on the intake.


maybe it is unnecessary as many people just seem to use compressed air, but i prefer not to take a chance! For sure I'd be the one person to have problems!

I've never done anything with the black water flush line.

I think the only winterization problem we have had with the AS was the first winter we owned it.

The previous owner had tucked the toiler rinse hose into the back of the toilet and we didn't know it even existed so it didn't get the antifreeze treatment.

Needless to say, water all over the place when we used the toilet and a new Thetford hose/valve assembly needed at the rip off price of about $39 if I recall!

Brian.
Hello Brian,
I am a newbie here and need your advise, please. I agree with our philosophy regarding winterizing and am wondering if you would share step by step how you treat your system with AF. This is my first time and want to treat my A$ carefully!

Thanks!
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Old 09-12-2013, 09:28 AM   #64
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Hello Brian,
I am a newbie here and need your advise, please. I agree with our philosophy regarding winterizing and am wondering if you would share step by step how you treat your system with AF. This is my first time and want to treat my A$ carefully!

Thanks!
You might want to read this thread. It has a lot of info regarding winterizing. Then come back if you have more questions. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f458...rize-7222.html

Jack
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Old 09-12-2013, 09:36 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by DreamsInSlvr View Post
Hello Brian,
I am a newbie here and need your advise, please. I agree with our philosophy regarding winterizing and am wondering if you would share step by step how you treat your system with AF. This is my first time and want to treat my A$ carefully!

Thanks!
Ok, Let's see if I can remember - I should be able to, as I just did it again last week!

Currently, I both blow the lines with compressed air and also use the pink plumbing antifreeze afterwards just in case I have some residual water left in the system after blowing the lines.

I made up a simple quick disconnect to connect my compressor air hose to the city water inlet to blow the lines and set the compressor no higher than about 40 psi.


So here's how I do it ...........


(1) Close the in and out lines to the hot water tank and open the bypass valve.

(I think not all trailers are equipped with these three valves, but if not, you can have this "bypass kit" installed - it saves you from having to fill the complete water tank with plumbing antifreeze if you choose to use antifreeze.)

(2) Once the HW is bypassed, I remove the drain plug in the tank (access from outside the trailer). Actually I replaced my drain plug with a simple drain valve as the plug was difficult to get to due to burner piping being in the way. To help the tank drain faster, I open the pressure relief valve at the top of the tank to let air in as the water drains.

(3) Now I connect my air compressor and start to blow the lines ....

- galley sink, hot, cold, rinse sprayer, drinking water filter in tap spout if you have that type of sink fixture.

- toilet, including rinse hose if it has one,

- shower, hot and cold

- bathroom sink, hot and cold,

- two low point drain valves under the trailer,

- external water tap /hose bib on the trailer if you have one.

I go around the trailer a few times, opening and closing all the taps mentioned above one at a time until water stops spitting from all.


(4) Now, I disconnect the "in hose" from my 12v water pump, and stick it into a gallon jug of non-poisonous plumbing antifreeze and turn the pump on.

Just how you do this may depend on the exact plumbing arrangement on your trailer.

You may need to have a short extra length of hose to put on the inlet side of your pump to do this.

Also, some trailers may be equipped with a three way valve and permanent piece of hose in the pump intake for this very purpose, so there is no need to disconnect anything. My previous trailer had such a set up.

Sometimes you may have difficulty getting the pump to prime when doing this. I used to have trouble with this, but since my pump seized up and I had to replace it, no problem at all getting the new pump to prime. I suspect my old pump might have been defective for a long time!

(5) Once the pump is primed with antifreeze, I go around the same sequence of valves as listed above in (3) opening each valve or fitting until I can clearly see that the fluid is running pink - which is really immediately, since I have already blown all or most of the water out with the compressed air.

As well, I quickly crack open the two low point drain valves under the trailer and also the external water tap, just to ensure now water has accumulated there.

Likewise, I quickly crack open the valves leading to the HW tank letting a tiny amount of plumbing antifreeze into the tank just to ensure that no water is trapped in the valves to and from the HW tank.

(6) All this usually takes me maybe a gallon and a half on antifreeze. I dump the remaining antifreeze into the sinks, shower, and toilet to ensure the traps are protected - although they already have antifreeze in them by now anyway due to the line flushing.

(7) When storing the trailer, I make sure there is quite a bit of antifreeze in the bowl to keep the seal wet. One year i did not - the seal dried out and it took me quite a while to get it working leak-free again the following season!

(8) I dump the water (with some antifreeze) that has accumulated in my gray tank. Truth to tell, I just dump it on the road outside our house as it is just clean water with a bit on plumbing antifreeze

(9) I now reconnect my fresh water pump ready for next year and I open the fresh water tank drain under the trailer. I close the drain vale and relief valve in the HW tank to prevent any insects getting in.


I think that is everything! I know some folks do some things differently.

I think some people put the antifreeze into their fresh water tank and pump it through the system from there. I have never done that as I figured I would need a lot more antifreeze in order to cover the pump suction tube intake in the tank.

When I first started with my method I was a bit concerned that the pump intake tube down in the tank might have a "foot valve" (a one way valve to ensure the pump would not lose its prime) I was concerned that if there was such a valve, then the pump intake pipe in the tank pipe could stay full of water and maybe freeze and crack.

I don't know if it does have a valve, I suspect not, as I have had no problem with my method - everything works fine again each Spring!

Hope my explanation is clear and that it is of some use to you.

You may get some good tips from others that will help you - and may well help me too!


Cheers ........... Brian.
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Old 09-12-2013, 02:53 PM   #66
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I guess my process is just too simple....I got it out of the Airstream owners manual.

First I drain the freshwater tank and the water heater tank.

Then screw the Camco air fitting in the water hose connection near the rear bumper then go inside and open each valve one at a time....I go back out side and blow about 50 psi of air through each one.

I repeat this until I do each faucet and line (toilet and shower).

Then I pour a little RV anti-freeze in the sink traps in the toilet bowl and down the shower drain.

Haven't had anything freeze and bust yet.
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Old 09-12-2013, 02:56 PM   #67
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LFC - That's what I do too. Don't forget the kitchen sink sprayer and outside shower.
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:05 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LFC View Post
I guess my process is just too simple....I got it out of the Airstream owners manual.

First I drain the freshwater tank and the water heater tank.

Then screw the Camco air fitting in the water hose connection near the rear bumper then go inside and open each valve one at a time....I go back out side and blow about 50 psi of air through each one.

I repeat this until I do each faucet and line (toilet and shower).

Then I pour a little RV anti-freeze in the sink traps in the toilet bowl and down the shower drain.

Haven't had anything freeze and bust yet.
The key in the air only method is to get all of the water out of the lines. My dealer doesn't put in antifreeze when he winterizes. The importance is getting all the water out.

If you don't get enough pressure (some folks use a 12 volt pump) residual water left in the pipes can flow back to a low spot and freeze. I use plenty of pressure but the addition of RV antifreeze gives me some comfort level.

I see one person chimed in not to forget the rinse hoses at the kitchen sink and toilet (if you have these). The other places that are easy to forget (if you have these) any outside outlets, and the hot and cold water plumbing low water drain points. I also blow out with the hot water heater bypass set to normal and then again when the bypass valves are set. If you don't, you can leave some water in the pipes leading to the water heater (either the normal pipes or the bypass pipes depending on the position you put the valves into for the winter).

One question I have never asked but if you aren't pumping antifreeze via the water pump, what keeps the water pump from freezing up? Wouldn't there be water in that pump (assuming you use your fresh water tank during the season). Blowing out via the city water inlet wouldn't blow out the pump since it has a backwater valve that keeps the water tank from backfilling.

Jack
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:31 PM   #69
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I use the air only method (plus antifreeze in drain traps). I go through the whole faucet cycle at least 3 times. I don't quit until there is absolutely no visible fog coming out of any faucet or low point drain. I've done this with my large compressor set to 75 psi for 20 years with no problems occurring in the spring.

However if you don't wish to be thorough, then by all means use antifreeze in the pipes.

Ken
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:55 PM   #70
Don't forget your cat nap
 
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The key in the air only method is to get all of the water out of the lines. My dealer doesn't put in antifreeze when he winterizes. The importance is getting all the water out.

If you don't get enough pressure (some folks use a 12 volt pump) residual water left in the pipes can flow back to a low spot and freeze. I use plenty of pressure but the addition of RV antifreeze gives me some comfort level.

I see one person chimed in not to forget the rinse hoses at the kitchen sink and toilet (if you have these). The other places that are easy to forget (if you have these) any outside outlets, and the hot and cold water plumbing low water drain points. I also blow out with the hot water heater bypass set to normal and then again when the bypass valves are set. If you don't, you can leave some water in the pipes leading to the water heater (either the normal pipes or the bypass pipes depending on the position you put the valves into for the winter).

One question I have never asked but if you aren't pumping antifreeze via the water pump, what keeps the water pump from freezing up? Wouldn't there be water in that pump (assuming you use your fresh water tank during the season). Blowing out via the city water inlet wouldn't blow out the pump since it has a backwater valve that keeps the water tank from backfilling.

Jack
One of the first steps in the process is to disconnect the output from the pump. Then the pump is turned on and run until dry. I collect the water from the pump in a bath towel.

Ken
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