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Old 08-19-2014, 11:36 AM   #15
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I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned how important it is to make a list of "to-dos" for winterizing. It usually makes it into this posting subject, and I must stress how important it is to make the list and then follow it.

Don't ask how I know.
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Old 08-20-2014, 08:14 PM   #16
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Wow!

Oh my! That does sound like a lot of work. But thank you for all the good information.

I talked to my zoning department a day or two ago. They don't allow parking on the grass. We are going to have to put in a driveway for the AS before winter. They also don't allow a driveway skirt longer than 22', so our additional driveway will need to be at an angle off one of the existing parking spaces. Actually, that will make it easier to park.

A couple of things I still don't understand:

Why do you have to put something under the wheels and jacks if you are on a paved (asphalt or cement) driveway?

And, I was under the impression that if you properly blow out everything, remove the batteries, etc., that you can let it freeze for the winter. No? Do you really need to heat it to 32+ all winter?? Where we will be parking it we can easily run the chord to an outlet inside the house, but is that necessary?

Those little roof fans bother me. Do they really survive the winter freeze and heavy snow? They just look like little clear plastic lids. Or should we get covers for them? What about the ceiling air conditioner?
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Old 08-20-2014, 10:52 PM   #17
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They sell drawstring Covers for AC.

If you are SURE everything is dry.... No worries. If you put in antifreeze be prepared for extended flush... But no damage


Anyway.. It will be good.
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Old 08-21-2014, 12:51 PM   #18
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Hard freezes are hard on alot of things - even things that don't retain water. I try to keep mine above 32 during very cold spells for safety.
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Old 08-22-2014, 08:13 PM   #19
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We live a little south of Mass. but cold enough to warrant a full winterization. I attach an air fitting to the city water inlet and plug my compressor in. I limit the pressure to
45-50 lbs and let it run. I go around a few times and open each water point to include the external faucet and tank flush if equipped. I do this a couple of times over about a 20 minute period. If you have a drinking water filter you should have already removed it. I have a whole house filter that I remove and re-attach the empty housing. The hot water tank is also drained and left open. Don't forget the low point drains too. Once all the water is blown out I go around and put a cup or so of RV antifreeze into each trap and the toilet bowl to keep the seals lubricated. That's it. One person job and only take a few minutes. Regarding the rooftop vents I close them to keep snow out and have never had any problem. Just don't try to open them if they have snow on top. We have been going south for the past few winters. At some point I may, or may not, put water into the fresh tank before we leave. That depends on the weather at the time. I DO NOT pump water through the trailer until we are south of a potential freeze threat. I have never had a problem with this and we are going on 9 years. If you have a filter built into any of the faucets get extras to have on hand. I remove them after blowing things out and put a new one in when things are going to be used again. Same with the whole house filter.

That's pretty much it. Last Feb. I had to snowblow a path to get it out for our flight south. They look pretty kool all covered in snow.

Enjoy your trailer and even more, Enjoy your travels with it. This ain't rocked science
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Old 08-22-2014, 09:43 PM   #20
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Details - appreciated!

Thank you Polarlyse! I especially like the specific instructions - like how much pressure to have on the compressor. I guess we'll get through it. The first time is always the hardest.

We had a summer camp for some years, and one year made the mistake of not draining the pump head. I'm assuming that with an air compressor that won't happen. The winterizing on the camp was all gravity draining.
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Old 08-22-2014, 10:04 PM   #21
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Yes. Gravity is helpful but some pressure is much more sure. Newer trailers are more forgiving having pex plumbing instead of copper but you still need to be careful and protect it. Many use the antifreeze and pump the system full. That also works well. If your interested in doing that I'm sure someone here on the forum can guide you through the process. Good luck with it
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