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Old 01-26-2015, 03:59 PM   #1
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What would you do different if you were placing your concrete your pad again?

I have just contracted for a concrete parking pad with EZ-Roll approaches across the yard. It will be against the house, so running 30 amp service and a water spigot in an un-finished basement will be a piece of cake. It will be 16' wide, so I can work around the AS and possibly have some Rubbermaid storage yard closets against the house wall.

If you had your pad to do over again, what would you change to make it better and more useable?
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Old 01-26-2015, 04:12 PM   #2
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Since I am not paying for it….

four led lights, one of them motion sensor

a roof, or canopy

foam underneath the concrete

pipes for radiant heat

stone campfire pit

grill

fridge or cooler ( optional )

entertainment center

raised bed vegetable garden

shed

grey water drain
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Old 01-26-2015, 04:19 PM   #3
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Okay.....

Lights - good idea
roof - can't...Village ordinances
Foam under concrete - ?????????
Radiant heat - naaahhh
Campfire pit - have an above ground "portable"
Grill - have one on the deck a few feet away
Fridge - one in the AS
entertainment center - the AS is the entertainment center
vegetable garden - store is around the corner
Shed - plans for small one
gray water drain - no exterior cleanout, however, if I feel the need , a macerator can go through the basement window well to the basement cleanout.
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Old 01-26-2015, 04:46 PM   #4
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Make it dead level, or must you slope it to drain away from the house?

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Old 01-26-2015, 05:20 PM   #5
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Yup, has to slope 1/8" per foot of run, IIRC. No biggie, I'll just run the curbside up on a 1" Lego or wood .
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Old 01-26-2015, 05:57 PM   #6
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I vote for an easy to access drain, even a 1.5" one if you have a macerator. But a full 3" line, hooked into the house drain system and brought out under the concrete to a location on the street side of the trailer is very very nice to have.

Too bad about the rules for a roof. I love mine.

I had my concrete poured dead flat and have never decided if that was the best idea or not. It is great when leveling or checking levels out, but the water that does blow in under the roof tends to stay longer than I like it to.
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Old 01-26-2015, 06:20 PM   #7
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Add a few RaceDeck FreeFlow XL squares under the tires .

FreeFlow Self Draining Garage Floor Tiles | RaceDeck

I did my whole garage floor but you could get away with just a few squares connected together for under the tires. This will separate the tires from the concrete and prevent tire damage from the concrete leaching.
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:42 PM   #8
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no need

The foam is needed if you were going to put in radiant heat
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Yup, has to slope 1/8" per foot of run, IIRC. No biggie, I'll just run the curbside up on a 1" Lego or wood .
Full disclosure— I've never poured a pad for storing an Airstream. But I've designed concrete parking pads as part of my job.

With regard to sloping the pad for drainage… Who says it has to slope to one side? Slope it lengthwise. 1/8" per foot would only be about four inches over the length of even the longest Airstream trailer, and your stabilizers and tongue jack could account for that amount of slope with little problem. Or you could slope it lengthwise in BOTH directions, so that the high point is directly under the axles. Then the elevation difference from the middle to either end would be two inches or less.

I'd also embed a substantial ring bolt as a tie-down point near the hitch, so that I could lock the trailer down to the concrete as a theft deterrent. But that's just me.

No foam under the concrete. Compacted crushed aggregate under the concrete, at least the same thickness as the concrete you're pouring, for drainage. If the soil is kind of weak in load-bearing, then also a layer of porous geotextile cloth under the aggregate.
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Old 01-26-2015, 08:19 PM   #10
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Again it is up against, and rebar tied to the house foundation. It must slope away. Code.
The lock down ring is a good idea.
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Old 01-27-2015, 01:30 AM   #11
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Installed in slab conduit for wiring.... and have had several occasions to put to use!

Installed 'weld plates' at strategic locations so that if I get a code variance, I can weld my roof support structure to the concrete. (weld plates are steel plates with rebar or 'mushroom headed' spikes which are welded to underside of the 'plate'. Both will make pulling the plate out of the concrete very difficult. You can also weld a loop to this plate for Protag's recommendation.

Make a bit of a 'higher' side of the concrete against the slab to 'encourage' runoff. Think of it as a 'curb'.

Make slab finish on lower end of taper ABOVE the level you will trim your lawn to. Adding shrubs/flowers along that edge will allow you to build a slightly raised bed without spilling onto your slab.

Install 'conduit' which is twice the size you plan to need. DAMHIK.. you know the reason.

Put a 'cleanout' in the slab, next to your AS dump valve outlet and route into your 'basement' drain.

Mount your electrical outlet on the side of the house and run the AS power cord to it. (you could bury a 'half' of a conduit, split lengthwise, so you can lay the AS power cord in there and have less of a 'tripping hazard'... Or, run power to a pedestal near where the AS power cable exits the AS.

Put an additional 120VAC weather proof outlet on the pedestal or side of home..where you can plug in a regular household appliance (there may be a day you need easy power access).

Have a 'broom' finish for good foot and AS traction...

If next to your home, couldn't you attach a 'sloped' roof (we called them 'lean-to' ) from side of home, over the AS? Yeah.. neighborhood 'rules'... probably not.

Can you 'fence' around the AS? Just curious... if so, put a 12' high wood fence and build your 'roof' just under the top..Not visible from the 'road'... and great place to put weld pads =)

Fire ring.. space for a BBQ pit, table, etc... toward rear.. away from 'prying eyes'

How about water source? If you build space for BBQ pit, add space and plumbing for water source.... you can 'plumb' it in at a later date if you like.... and run power out there.. another vote for a 'pedestal'.... you can power the AS and a radio... or other device..

If only the 'pad' is to be there, you could imbed some texture stone or bricks near the edge...perhaps matching your home... to give that 'finished' look.


Put outdoor carpeting on the cement. You can at least PRETEND to be camping!!!
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:08 AM   #12
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I'd put in a gradual slope to the center with a drain into a gravel pit. I would also put something for the tires to sit on other than concrete. A friend who owns a large tire store recommends plastic deck material, vinyl coated wood or something like this stuff if the vehicle is going to be stored for a long time. I am NOT a tire person but have taken his suggestions and put plastic decking under our tires where we store our trailer, unfortunately in our town we can only have it at our house for 48 hours unless it's in a garage.
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:09 AM   #13
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Thanks, Channing,

Some good things to think about.

Power and water will be run and mounted to the side of the house...good thought about the 20 amp outlet as well as the 30 amp.

Finish will be a broomed California finish (new driveway to match on the other side of the house later...I hate the asphalt!)

Will have to think about the conduit ideas.

All the BBQ, fire ring, etc are really already accounted for. My deck is just steps away from the pad location.

I am going to have to look into the cleanout issue. I am really doubtful the Village will allow it, and it would be difficult to accomplish. All the sanitary pipes are at the center of the house or at the complete opposite end of the house. The wall where the pad will be encloses the living and family rooms. For the very occasional need, I think a macerator and garden hose may have to do.

No roof structure is allowed.

Fence...maybe. Will do later, if I think I want it. I don't want to interfere with my ability to have "elbow room" for service and maintenance.

Here is a sketch of the plan.


Parking pad and approach.pdf
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:25 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Here is a sketch of the plan.


Attachment 231199
If the folks pouring the slab will work from this sketch, be sure to add an arrow on the slab with "Slope to Drain 1/8" per Foot" so they'll know which way to slope the forms before pouring.

Also, if you can go a bit wider on your slab without violating code it might be advantageous. A clear 3 feet on all sides of the trailer (more on the service side of the trailer as you already show) will give you adequate work room for tire changes and such, and give you room to open the trailer door if you fence around the pad later.

Alongside the slab on the down-slope side, add a gravel-filled "French Drain" to help carry runoff away from the slab, so you don't create a mud pit alongside the slab every time it rains heavily. Either that or shallowly bury a perforated pipe leading to a sewer line to carry away the runoff.
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