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Old 01-27-2015, 08:42 AM   #15
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Thanks, Protag,

The slope is written into the actual bid proposal. Yup, I have some water management things to deal with. (I'm doing that myself, as well as sod removal and re-installation for the EZ Roll grass "paver" approach. The contractor is doing the excavation and base work for it though). I have two downspouts to bury and re-route and am thinking of how I want to manage the down slope side of the pad. That part of the yard has always drained well and has grade work to manage my yard and the neighbor's to "trough" on the line and toward the street. After they remove the forms, I may bury a perforated drain tube and run it to the area of the lot line.
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Old 01-27-2015, 09:21 AM   #16
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Speaking with my general contractor hat on:
  • After the sod has been removed, before placing any stone, and after the earth graded to the proper depth, re-compact the soil.
  • Thicken (8"min) and reinforce the slab edge with steel bars at the perimeter , so that the vehicles driving onto the slab will be less likely to break it.
  • If it were my slab I would use reinforcing, a 6" x 6" x 9ga x 9ga wire mesh reinforcing as primary, and glass fiber as secondary.
  • Use 4,000 psi concrete.
  • Make sure that you get "air entrained concrete". This will be less likely to be affected by freezing surface water in the years to come.
  • Do not let the contractor add excessive water to the concrete after it arrives. Changing water/cement ratio will reduce the strength of the concrete. (contractors like to add water to make the material more fluid) Ask the supplier to provide and the contactor to pour the material at a 4" to 6" slump (a measure of fluidity).
  • As soon as possible after the surface has been finished, install a temporary vapor barrier over the surface to keep the concrete hydrated. This can be a liquid plastic membrane, a sheet of polyethylene, or a cloth covering that is kept damp. If concrete cures (dries) to fast it looses its strength. Wind drying the surface is your enemy until the concrete cures.
  • Don't be tempted to park on the slab until it cures to a high percentage of it's designed strength. I would wait a minimum of 2 weeks, or longer.
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Old 01-27-2015, 09:29 AM   #17
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If no roof is allowed, is an AWNING allowed on the side of the house?
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Old 01-27-2015, 09:39 AM   #18
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Paula,

I have see "sunsetters" in the neighborhood, so yes, but a 16' one? Not sure that could be done...but maybe, with vertical posts at the ends.
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Old 01-27-2015, 09:50 AM   #19
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Pad

Budget....?

I think the idea of water and sewer is great if affordable. As to the pad itself, having a drain down the middle means washing water goes under the trailer so one does not stand in a puddle while washing. Or, instead of a pad, two, three foot wide concrete lanes for the wheels, gravel all around. Drains nicely if done properly and far less expensive.

If no cover is permissible, would try to figure out an awning or a suspended cover over the trailer, not touching the surface so as to allow air flow, but keep the sun off. Also, keeping wind out from under the trailer may be an advantage in winter so as to maintain a warmer underside.

Good luck..... and a comment on previous contributions... all good, but my, how we do love to spend other's money...LOL
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Old 01-27-2015, 09:52 AM   #20
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Thanks, Alan, most helpful,

I have spec'ed (for both the pad and the approach) compacted soil, compacted CA6 (4" is all every bidder spec'ed for my soil type), and for the approaches EZ-Roll an additional 2" of compacted soil prior to permeable paver lay down, then wet sod rolled through the "honeycomb". (see "light load pdf" here: EZ Roll Grass Pavers

Wire mesh has been spec'd. I'll ask about your gauge and configuration, as well as the thicker edges. All the bidders didn't recommend fiber mixed in the concrete for my climate???? Is that what you are talking about?

4000psi has be specified.

I'll ask about air entrainment. Although I do recall conversation that since this pad won't see salt, that it isn't as necessary as a driveway.

I'll ask about 4 - 6" slump.

We talked about "sealer" application after working the finish. Is that what you are talking about with "liquid plastic?

A 2 week wait, at minimum, will be observed. In addition to concrete cure time, I need to let the sod root back in for several weeks before driving on it.

Oh, and I specified 5" pad thickness...contractor thought that would be a good plan as well. more$$$$ for him ....actually not much, I guess the concrete supplier get most of the extra money.

I am going to email the contractor right now....thanks again.
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Old 01-27-2015, 10:39 AM   #21
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Aren't you afraid of hail, living in Illinois, storing outside?

Kelvin
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Old 01-27-2015, 10:58 AM   #22
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Of course, Kelvin, but it's outside now! We had been shopping for rural farmettes with barns for about 18 months. Very long story, short, we are staying where we are. Sizable hail is relatively rare (jinx). I've been in this house for 17 years and haven't had hail larger than pea sized....no roof damage in all that time....sooooo.......
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Old 01-27-2015, 02:42 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
Don't be tempted to park on the slab until it cures to a high percentage of it's designed strength. I would wait a minimum of 2 weeks, or longer.
If using the slab quickly is necessary, then specify Type 3 concrete, also called High-Early-Strength Concrete. It cures more quickly and is usable in 7 days. Other types of concrete take about three weeks to cure sufficiently to use without risk of damage.
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Old 01-27-2015, 02:48 PM   #24
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We talked about "sealer" application after working the finish. Is that what you are talking about with "liquid plastic?
Hopefully AW Warn won't be upset if I answer for him. A sealer is a completely separate issue, and not really necessary unless you anticipate fluid spills other than water.

The curing membrane is to keep the concrete damp throughout the curing process. The moisture acts to allow the chemical reactions in the Portland cement to continue throughout the curing period. After the curing period is over (21 days for most mixtures, 7 days for Type 3) the curing membrane is removed.
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Old 01-27-2015, 03:00 PM   #25
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Got it, Protag. No hurry to use it...I need to let the sod heal in before driving over the permeable paver anyway.

Answers to above:

Slope confirmed at 1/8" per foot, away from foundation. Pad pinned to foundation by rebar 4" into foundation.

Wire mesh , as Alan described, with rebar added to specific locations, including front edge of pad (only edge driven over or load close to)

Concrete will be air entrained, 4000psi, 5 inches thick, no fiber, extra thick at at front edge.

Once the excavation is done, the soil type may change the thickness of the CA6. The contractor works pretty exclusively in our community and predominantly finds hard packed clay at 4 - 5" or so. He'll be excavating to 8" minimum. May go deeper if he has to.

I can tell you, from planting trees and shrubs when we moved in, I don't have to worry about sandy, loamy soil very deep.
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Old 01-27-2015, 04:11 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Protagonist View Post
Hopefully AW Warn won't be upset if I answer for him. A sealer is a completely separate issue, and not really necessary unless you anticipate fluid spills other than water.

The curing membrane is to keep the concrete damp throughout the curing process. The moisture acts to allow the chemical reactions in the Portland cement to continue throughout the curing period. After the curing period is over (21 days for most mixtures, 7 days for Type 3) the curing membrane is removed.
No problem, but there is a product called Kure n Seal that does both. (I like Kure N Seal WB). After the initial application for curing it can be re-coated for preventative maintenance (will help prevent staining/discoloration).

Re the comment about different gague reinforcing wire: 10ga x 10 ga is probably more prevalent in residential construction, which will be fine for application over compacted clay & stone base.

Air entrainment is about resisting internal forces created during freeze thaw cycles. I suggest using it whether salt is going to be applied or not. I always used it for all non structural exterior concrete; sidewalks, steps, porches, patios, curbs, paving, etc. It is a chemical admixture to the concrete, but should not affect cost more than a few $ at most.
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Old 01-27-2015, 04:14 PM   #27
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We are new owners and have found temporary storage for our AS. Our plan is to build a simple shed and would like to know if you have a thread with more of your design suggestions. You have some great ideas that we had not considered.
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Old 04-11-2015, 04:27 PM   #28
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woo hoo, it's time. The Village has released the flatwork permits and my contractor will be here 7AM Monday morning. I spent the day today cutting the sod which will be replaced over the permeable paver approach. Tomorrow my son will help me roll it and move it.

Finally I can get this project moving!
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