Over on another thread, I did a quick-and-dirty calculated estimate of the wind resistance of an Airstream vs. a slab-sided SOB of the same size. The curved sides of the Airstream do improve it's resistance to wind. But preventing the wind from blowing UNDER the trailer also improves wind resistance by minimizing uplift forces.
If you're going to block it up, the places to block it are the same places that support the trailer now: the jack locations— both stabilizer and tongue jacks— and at the wheels (at the designated jacking points for tire changing). Use every jacking point on the trailer to spread the load. If you're going to strap it down, attach the straps to the frame as close to the blocks as you can get. If you attach the tie-downs at a different place than at the blocks, downward force at the tiedowns versus upward force at the blocks can apply bending forces to the frame. But if your upward and downward forces are close together, no bending force.
Tiedowns should be snug, but not so tight that they thrum like guitar strings. If they're too tight, you use up all of your load-bearing capacity before the storm even hits. On the other hand, loose tiedowns will impart shock loading when they're jerked tight by wind action, and that can damage the tiedown and/or the trailer frame.
In place of charcoal to control humidity, try pans of clean kitty litter. It's designed to absorb moisture, and if you get a scented kind, it smells better than damp charcoal, too. If you put pans of kitty litter directly under your roof vents (including the AC grille) than any water that leaks in ends up in the pan and not on the floor, too.
As for sun exposure, if the air conditioner shroud isn't painted, paint it. The plastic will not degrade as fast due to UV exposure if it's got a good coat of paint on it.
You might consider replacing your bathroom vent with a solar-powered Nicro mushroom vent by Marinco to provide forced ventilation even when the power is off.
In the Nick of Time
Linear Mode
