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Old 04-18-2014, 06:38 PM   #15
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Yes, I worried about leaving the gray valve open and hooked into the sewer. I put antifreeze i the traps hoping that might not evaporate and leave them open. I would not have tried this except that I talked to neighbors that did it successfully. Where we are parked we keep the power on all year because it saves nothing to pay the disconnect and reconnect charge. We did not have any particular problems with the charcoal except the trailer did smell damp and musty. Little to no mold. We leave it for a full 9 months. We also had slight leaks which I hope we have fixed,. The aluminum tape I use has the paper backing that you pull off. Hardware store or Lowes. My trailer is pretty old and I do not know if the Al tape will mark a new trailer. I would only use it where you know you have a leak without it. For us that is around the vent for the kitchen fan and the door that apparently is not curved exactly right. I bought a new gasket but was afraid to change it just before we left. Might come back with the door glued shut. Covered storage would certainly be good. But be sure you or they have insurance. One of our unit members has his trailer stored in a covered facility and the roof of the storage unit fell in a severe thunderstorm with a lot of rain.
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Old 04-18-2014, 06:39 PM   #16
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That's a good point, mojo. Here I am thinking, "is it better to be on the high ground in the teeth of the wind and flying debris? Or down low, where the water in this coastal Mexican town, can run like rivers?" After going around with that I decided on the high ground, and best of all, indoors, if I can find it. We're not ready to take it on the road yet, so that option will have to wait.
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Old 04-18-2014, 06:43 PM   #17
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Thanks Bill, I follow your reasoning, it makes sense to me. I'll check for something like the tape because I think I have a few problem spots and some is probably better than none. And I will ask about insurance and check ours, good idea.
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Old 04-18-2014, 07:14 PM   #18
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Could not edit above post. I also put zip lock bags of water on the drains to seal them. Our trailer sat in this park for 18 years before we bought it. We have been there 4 years. So it is experienced at sitting in the Fl sun. We do take it on 1 trip a year so it does move some.
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Old 04-18-2014, 11:07 PM   #19
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18 years is a long time to wait for you!
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Old 04-19-2014, 06:03 AM   #20
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So now I see what reflectix is. If I cut it to fill my windows that would keep the heat down. Will it create more condensation on the windows though? Or is there a fix for that?
I live in the Sandhills/Coastal Plain area of NC. I use the reflectix and leave the roof vents cracked. Around here green stuff grows on anything that sits sill long enough, even you if you are slow mover... I have never noticed any extra condensation. FWIW I used to use the Damp Rid stuff in our popup it needed emptying at least once ever two weeks. I like the idea of a dehumidifier dumping into the sink, or I supposed you could plumb a separate drain line in for it too and bypass the gray tank.

The aluminum tape Bill is talking about is available at Lowe's in the section where the heating ducts are. You want the plain aluminum tape, not the stuff with the super duper added adhesive. It works great for temporary patching on the AS too. I had a couple of rivets fall out along the road one time, slapped a square of tape on the holes and fixed it a couple of years later.

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Old 04-19-2014, 09:04 AM   #21
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Thanks Aaron!

So it looks like, if I can find reflectix and that aluminum tape in Baja, I'll give those a try. We aren't going to have power at the storage site, so maybe I'll put a few DampRids in the sinks and shower and just let them overflow into the closed grey tank if that's what they do. Maybe I'll end up with a colony in there, though ... But maybe that would be better than multiple colonies in the coach.
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Old 04-21-2014, 09:16 AM   #22
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Over on another thread, I did a quick-and-dirty calculated estimate of the wind resistance of an Airstream vs. a slab-sided SOB of the same size. The curved sides of the Airstream do improve it's resistance to wind. But preventing the wind from blowing UNDER the trailer also improves wind resistance by minimizing uplift forces.

If you're going to block it up, the places to block it are the same places that support the trailer now: the jack locationsó both stabilizer and tongue jacksó and at the wheels (at the designated jacking points for tire changing). Use every jacking point on the trailer to spread the load. If you're going to strap it down, attach the straps to the frame as close to the blocks as you can get. If you attach the tie-downs at a different place than at the blocks, downward force at the tiedowns versus upward force at the blocks can apply bending forces to the frame. But if your upward and downward forces are close together, no bending force.

Tiedowns should be snug, but not so tight that they thrum like guitar strings. If they're too tight, you use up all of your load-bearing capacity before the storm even hits. On the other hand, loose tiedowns will impart shock loading when they're jerked tight by wind action, and that can damage the tiedown and/or the trailer frame.

In place of charcoal to control humidity, try pans of clean kitty litter. It's designed to absorb moisture, and if you get a scented kind, it smells better than damp charcoal, too. If you put pans of kitty litter directly under your roof vents (including the AC grille) than any water that leaks in ends up in the pan and not on the floor, too.

As for sun exposure, if the air conditioner shroud isn't painted, paint it. The plastic will not degrade as fast due to UV exposure if it's got a good coat of paint on it.

You might consider replacing your bathroom vent with a solar-powered Nicro mushroom vent by Marinco to provide forced ventilation even when the power is off.
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Old 04-21-2014, 11:15 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Protagonist View Post
Over on another thread, I did a quick-and-dirty calculated estimate of the wind resistance of an Airstream vs. a slab-sided SOB of the same size. The curved sides of the Airstream do improve it's resistance to wind. But preventing the wind from blowing UNDER the trailer also improves wind resistance by minimizing uplift forces.

If you're going to block it up, the places to block it are the same places that support the trailer now: the jack locationsó both stabilizer and tongue jacksó and at the wheels (at the designated jacking points for tire changing). Use every jacking point on the trailer to spread the load. If you're going to strap it down, attach the straps to the frame as close to the blocks as you can get. If you attach the tie-downs at a different place than at the blocks, downward force at the tiedowns versus upward force at the blocks can apply bending forces to the frame. But if your upward and downward forces are close together, no bending force.

Tiedowns should be snug, but not so tight that they thrum like guitar strings. If they're too tight, you use up all of your load-bearing capacity before the storm even hits. On the other hand, loose tiedowns will impart shock loading when they're jerked tight by wind action, and that can damage the tiedown and/or the trailer frame.

In place of charcoal to control humidity, try pans of clean kitty litter. It's designed to absorb moisture, and if you get a scented kind, it smells better than damp charcoal, too. If you put pans of kitty litter directly under your roof vents (including the AC grille) than any water that leaks in ends up in the pan and not on the floor, too.

As for sun exposure, if the air conditioner shroud isn't painted, paint it. The plastic will not degrade as fast due to UV exposure if it's got a good coat of paint on it.

You might consider replacing your bathroom vent with a solar-powered Nicro mushroom vent by Marinco to provide forced ventilation even when the power is off.
Thanks so much Protagonist, this info is right in the nick of time. I am about to buy what I need so the guys can do the digging for anchors and put the trailer on blocks. What you say makes complete sense. I haven't even figured out where the jacks are on this trailer, let alone how to use them, so I can see I'm going to be spending a lot more time underneath this week.

And kitty litter here I come. That DampRid stuff is expensive.

If I had the time, I'd order and install that vent lid. I didn't know such a thing existed. It sounds like a great idea. If I could order it and have someone install it in my absence I would but I already have enough dents in the roof! I'm going to try one of those suction thingies when we get back and see if I can make some un-dents in it.

Again, very helpful, thanks.
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Old 04-21-2014, 05:24 PM   #24
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Even Hurricane John

Just for grins, I thought I'd report the following: Our summer RV storage place is on the top of a hill in our town which took a direct hit in Hurricane John. The manager tells me that the two Airstream trailers were onsite at the time were completely undisturbed and were not anchored down.

I've learned there's a shed (roof only) available, so I'm going to store my Limited in there and pray that there's not a lot of sideways rain. I'm going to leave the reflecto-magic and the anchoring for some subsequent year when we may have a more permanent site for it. I'm not going to have them lift it onto blocks because I figure why invite more wind under my trailer?

I'm still going to do the kitty litter and the best I can to seal what openings there are around the trailer. But next year I'm coming back with one of those solar vent-thingies. They seem to be a good idea.
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