Warning: First Time Winterizers ... this ain't in the manual!

[AIRHEDS]

From the manual:

8. Disconnect the water pump inlet connection and turn the pump on until all the water is expelled ...

What the manual doesn't say is:

8. Disconnect the water pump inlet connection and turn the pump on until all the water is expelled ... take extreme care to avoid being a schmuck and dropping the cone-shaped rubber gasket down the really big hole in the floor, adjacent to the water pump ... it's deep and dark and your stubby arm can't reach down into the deep abyss where you will surely never see that stupid cone-shaped gasket again! The stupid little gasket is only $0.39 but you'll pay $10 for shipping it Priority, so it's best to get a half-dozen because you're likely to be a schmuck again!

This ends my public service announcement.

Sincerely,
AIRHED #1 of 2

[Caffeinated]

Umm, to avoid this problem, you could leave it connected and just empty the fresh water tank and run the pump dry. It achieves the same result. I learned in another thread that West Marine has some fittings in stock for sureflow pumps.

Mike

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by AIRHEDS

From the manual:



What the manual doesn't say is:



This ends my public service announcement.

Sincerely,
AIRHED #1 of 2

Sigh... It's not an Airstream-specific part. Just go to Home Depot and pick up a couple of them, and save the shipping.

[AIRHEDS]

Thanks ... but I didn't even get to see the part before it bounced off the floor and into the abyss. And having never seen the part, I didn't even know what to order ... I just knew it wasn't a garden hose washer (because that didn't fit). I should have just come online here to ask the question before ordering from a large Airstream parts dealer in NC... Sigh is right...

So the next question is what do I do with that little cone-shaped thingy? Insert the pointed end into the pump and screw the plumbing pipe back on to the pump?

Originally Posted by overlander63

Sigh... It's not an Airstream-specific part. Just go to Home Depot and pick up a couple of them, and save the shipping.

[thiel]

Originally Posted by AIRHEDS

Thanks ... but I didn't even get to see the part before it bounced off the floor and into the abyss. And having never seen the part, I didn't even know what to order ... I just knew it wasn't a garden hose washer (because that didn't fit). I should have just come online here to ask the question before ordering from a large Airstream parts dealer in NC... Sigh is right...

So the next question is what do I do with that little cone-shaped thingy? Insert the pointed end into the pump and screw the plumbing pipe back on to the pump?

Generally the pointed end should point against the flow. If it points with the flow then things collect inside it and it plugs.

[NY24]

AIRHED, Thank you for taking the time to post this simple (yet important) bit of information. I'm sure it will save someone else from making that same mistake.

[damascus]

Why don't you just run antifreeze into the pump from the fresh water tank? Doesn't that serve the same purpose?

[AIRHEDS]

Originally Posted by damascus

Why don't you just run antifreeze into the pump from the fresh water tank? Doesn't that serve the same purpose?

Great question. I read a great post by paiceman (Bud) at

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f520...ic-154965.html

He said that he learned at the factory that it wasn't necessary to put antifreeze through the system, so I thought ... "Cool ... I don't need antifreeze except for the traps." ... having read his instructions, I simultaneously followed the instructions from my manual ... which added the removal of the pump inlet as I stated in step 8.

Another lesson: I used my Viair 450 to do the "initial round of" blowing-out. That, in my humble opinion, was a fail. It is a great unit but it's unregulated and lacks an air tank. It will develop over 100 PSI, if pressurizing a load, but because there's no air tank to speak of, it only develops about 1.5 CFM at near-0 PSI. Yes, it got a lot of the water out, but it wasn't in compliance with the manual which explicitly stated to use at least 65 PSI to clear the water from the lines. So, the next day, I went back to the trailer with my Porter Cable pancake compressor ... I set the regulator to 65PSI and attached it to the trailer's city water input. Then I went into the trailer and opened the main sink faucet ... HOLY CRAP! A lot of water blew-out under serious pressure ... just like it should. I repeated the same at each of the other locations, and I continued going from faucet to faucet blowing out and repeating the cycle until I was comfortable that I got most, if not all, water out.

In my humble and inexperienced opinion, the Viair would be great for inflating and pressurizing tires on the road ... but not for blowing out the lines without following-up with anti-freeze ... if using anti-freeze in conjunction with the Viair, cool ... but not relying on the Viair alone. Again, this is just in my humble and inexperienced opinion ...

So, having read another thread about playing it safe ... AND ... having turned the page in my manual since winterizing two days this week, I'm now planning to go back to the trailer with the RV antifreeze I bought and pump it through the system, just to play it safe ... if it's not too late, given we've already had a couple of freezes this week. But I don't want to do that until those damned little rubber cone-shaped washers that cost $10 for shipping arrive.

Something so petty ... but what a time bust! So, don't drop that rubber washer into the abyss!

[paiceman]

Originally Posted by AIRHEDS

Great question. I read a great post by paiceman (Bud) at

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f520...ic-154965.html

He said that he learned at the factory that it wasn't necessary to put antifreeze through the system, so I thought ... "Cool ... I don't need antifreeze except for the traps." ... having read his instructions, I simultaneously followed the instructions from my manual ... which added the removal of the pump inlet as I stated in step 8.

Another lesson: I used my Viair 450 to do the "initial round of" blowing-out. That, in my humble opinion, was a fail. It is a great unit but it's unregulated and lacks an air tank. It will develop over 100 PSI, if pressurizing a load, but because there's no air tank to speak of, it only develops about 1.5 CFM at near-0 PSI. Yes, it got a lot of the water out, but it wasn't in compliance with the manual which explicitly stated to use at least 65 PSI to clear the water from the lines. So, the next day, I went back to the trailer with my Porter Cable pancake compressor ... I set the regulator to 65PSI and attached it to the trailer's city water input. Then I went into the trailer and opened the main sink faucet ... HOLY CRAP! A lot of water blew-out under serious pressure ... just like it should. I repeated the same at each of the other locations, and I continued going from faucet to faucet blowing out and repeating the cycle until I was comfortable that I got most, if not all, water out.

In my humble and inexperienced opinion, the Viair would be great for inflating and pressurizing tires on the road ... but not for blowing out the lines without following-up with anti-freeze ... if using anti-freeze in conjunction with the Viair, cool ... but not relying on the Viair alone. Again, this is just in my humble and inexperienced opinion ...

So, having read another thread about playing it safe ... AND ... having turned the page in my manual since winterizing two days this week, I'm now planning to go back to the trailer with the RV antifreeze I bought and pump it through the system, just to play it safe ... if it's not too late, given we've already had a couple of freezes this week. But I don't want to do that until those damned little rubber cone-shaped washers arrive.

Something so petty ... but what a time bust! So, don't drop that rubber washer into the abyss!

Hey Airhead

I recently posted another thread after taking the Classic out to the former Airstream dealer for PA inspection. The techs have combined over 100 years with AS trailers etc. They also have worked on my previous motorhome and motorhomes with the German made system like Alde. They told me to anti-freeze the entire system. I told them what the factory said, they said, anti freeze. Then further on in some thread Lewster was involved and he said the same. So, I went back to storage with anti-freeze and pumped it thru the system it took about 4 and 3/4 gallons including the hot water tank. As time moves on I will get this sorted out, but after talking to my techs, and Lewster and the factory, which in retrospect has never dealt with hot water boilers I decided to go Anti-freeze.

It was very simple and easy.

My washer did not fall out, but I read your post, laughed as I usually do the same. Everything plumbing wise in these things is standard fittings. I'd buy a pack of the coned washers and see which one fits, put it in so cone faces the pump and my guess is you'd be good to go. Can't see how it could hurt anything. I also wonder if mine dropped down, did not see it, but the pump is a long way back and it's dark in there. But, when I put the anti freeze in I had no leaks.

Bud

[AIRHEDS]

Bud, that must have been your post that I was referring to ... I remember seeing what you wrote as well as Lewster's "just do it" post. I didn't recall that it was your post. I need to find it and amend the checklist (I actually made a "winterizing checklist" from your aforementioned post).

Thanks for sharing, Bud... I'll be heading back to the storage lot this weekend...

Take care,
Rich

[Pressdr]

Good afternoon airstreamers..,.

The easiest way to winterize your trailer is to :

1.Drain all lines and tanks

2.open all faucets and toilet valve

3.put hot water tank in bypass and drain

4.use compressed air, and blow out lines from all faucets.
( I prefer to use low pressure high volume type compressor)
5. use compressor to blow water through P traps
6. blow air into water inlet
6. repeat steps 1 through 5

The physics of these steps is to remove as much water as possible from the system. you may not remove all water, but most, if not all, will be blown out.

next process

1. close all drains and faucets
2. make sure fresh water tank is closed
3. fill fresh water tank with 3 gallons of RV anti freeze, you could use more if you wish
4. turn on water pump and pressurize lines, pump should shut off
5. open faucet closest to pump and allow time for only antifreeze to com through. open both the hot and cold sides.
6.close faucet and proceed to next faucet and repeat process throughout trailer. do not forget the toilet.

The physics behind this process is to charge all lines including the pump and all faucets with anti freeze. the anti freeze mixes with what ever water remained in the lines and dilutes and passes it out through the faucets. the RV anti freeze now is also in the P traps.

next process

1. open all faucets and drains
2. blow out all lines as you did in the very first process
3. blow out P traps
4. leave all drains open
drain remaining antifreeze from fresh water tank.

The physics behind this step is to remove as much fluid from the lines as possible. any remaining fluid left behind is only RV antifreeze. leaving the valves and faucets open allow for the normal expansion and contraction of the remaining liquid during normal temperature changes.

don't forget to drain your holding tanks. I like to leave the valves half open, so that should the sealing gaskets stick, I have two directions to work the valve gate loose.
This sounds complicated, but it really isn't, and after doing it once, you will find how easy and efficient it is, while preventing frozen lines.

I have don this process for 25 years in the Chicago area for two trailers, and never had a single freeze up.
happy camping, and hope for a mild and short winter. Already looking forward to getting ready for spring.

Peace in Our Time
Pressdr.

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by AIRHEDS

From the manual:



What the manual doesn't say is:



This ends my public service announcement.

Sincerely,
AIRHED #1 of 2

Who's the other "Airhed"?

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by damascus

Why don't you just run antifreeze into the pump from the fresh water tank? Doesn't that serve the same purpose?

You really don't want to put anti-freeze in the fresh water tank! Nope!
With that cheezy and Stoopid placement of the drain valve it would take you forever to drain it; and then flush it.

On my previous HiLo, I just shut off the water feed valves, and used the supplied hose to suck anti-freeze into the system. It was easy, and no AF wound up in the fresh tank.

With the Airstreams, I'm not as limber as I used to be; and I'm getting lazy.
So I just let CanAm Winterize it for me.
That way, any mistakes are on them, and not me.

Trailer Trash squatting in a Tin Shed.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by damascus

Why don't you just run antifreeze into the pump from the fresh water tank? Doesn't that serve the same purpose?

That turns a relatively quick and fast job into a Springtime ordeal. You will have to drain, refill, drain, and refill the tank several times, and you will still have the antifreeze taste in the water.

[AIRHEDS]

Originally Posted by MelGoddard

Who's the other "Airhed"?

My wife, Kat. There are times I say that she's the only Airhed - and that's when I usually get thunked on the hed.

[gandttimes]

Airheads , I had to laugh because I did exactly the same thing ( dropping the rubber thingy) last year, but being a stubborn scot, I spent far too much time with a mirror, light and a retreval tool to get it back. This year, remembering my folly, I slipped a cloth under the pump and across the hole to stop it happening again and to catch the drips.
Thanks for the laugh.😆

[greghoro]

Originally Posted by damascus

Why don't you just run antifreeze into the pump from the fresh water tank? Doesn't that serve the same purpose?

There is a antifreeze winterizing kit you can buy that is permanently placed in the fresh water tank intake line just in front of the trailer water pump. Fittings are included, an easy install job. It’s simply a T fitting with a valve: one end of the T is connected to the water pump inlet, a second is connected to the hose from the fresh water tank and the third end goes to a length of plastic hose.

In normal operation, you turn the valve so that the water is taken up from the fresh water tank. When winterizing, you turn the valve to the position so that antifreeze can be taken up through the length of plastic hose.

You put the length of plastic hose into your container of antifreeze, turn the valve to the winterizing position, switch on the trailer water pump and away you go.

You can see when you need to top off your antifreeze container or switch to another gallon jug. Most importantly, you use just the amount of antifreeze needed to winterize and you can save the leftover for next year. No waste or needing to flush out the fresh water tank in the spring.


Greg

[guskmg]

If you use compressed air only be sure and disconnect the pump inlet so the filter can drain back into the fresh water tank. I made up a hose with a valve so I could pump out the water in the pump into the nearest drain. With another fitting on the other end of the hose, I can blow out the disconnected outlet hose into the same drain when the system is pressurerised. The valve gives me the ability to see the compressed air or pump blowing out that part of the system. Never had a freeze up.
guskmg

[paiceman]

The answers to Airheads questions are all appropriate except he has a 2017 Classic as we have. This is our forth Airstream, trust me the 2017 Classic is a different animal, entirely. These units are more like the big motorhomes than an Airstream with respect to the components down to the heating system and the hot water system.

[DT57]

Here is the AS kit- https://store.airstream.com/product/...nterizing-kit/

On my trailer the inlet side of the pump is nearly impossible to get to, tracing it back towards the tank there is what appears to be a check valve or pressure valve in line (behind cabinet panel under the fridge). It does seem possible to connect the kit on the tank side of this. Do any of you think this is feasible ?

Originally Posted by greghoro

There is a antifreeze winterizing kit you can buy that is permanently placed in the fresh water tank intake line just in front of the trailer water pump. Fittings are included, an easy install job. It’s simply a T fitting with a valve: one end of the T is connected to the water pump inlet, a second is connected to the hose from the fresh water tank and the third end goes to a length of plastic hose.

In normal operation, you turn the valve so that the water is taken up from the fresh water tank. When winterizing, you turn the valve to the position so that antifreeze can be taken up through the length of plastic hose.

You put the length of plastic hose into your container of antifreeze, turn the valve to the winterizing position, switch on the trailer water pump and away you go.

You can see when you need to top off your antifreeze container or switch to another gallon jug. Most importantly, you use just the amount of antifreeze needed to winterize and you can save the leftover for next year. No waste or needing to flush out the fresh water tank in the spring.


Greg