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cajohnson · 10-16-2016, 11:02 AM

After having succuessfully winterized our truck campers for the last 15 years I'm going to do our 19 ft Flying Cloud for the first time. Last year, our first winter for the AS, I had the dealer do it. I appreciate the convenience and cost of doing it myself.

I bought the blow out plug for the city water supply. My question is this:
On the Camco packaging it says "Apply air pressure using an oil-less air compressor."

Does this mean I can't use my shop air compressor? It's a Craftsman 1.6-HP, 26-gallon stand up compressor. Don't all compressors, since they have motors, involve oil?

Thanks for any and all advice.

SMLJeep · 10-16-2016, 11:20 AM

Not knowing the model of your Craftsman compressor but looking on their webpage I'd say you have an oil-less compressor. Most home type compressors are oil-less. Air compressors draw air in with a piston. The air is then compressed into a storage tank. For maximum efficiency, the piston chamber needs adequate lubrication, for which oil is used. These are oil air compressors. However, in oil-free compressors, the cylinder is pre-lubricated (mostly with Teflon) for permanent lubrication. The Teflon coating protects the pump. That's the major difference. While oil compressors need regular oiling, the latter doesn't require any lubrication.

KJRitchie · 10-16-2016, 11:26 AM

Its OK to use what you have. I use a 2 gal pancake Craftsman. I use a quick connect blow out plug so I can keep pressure on the systems while I go from faucet to faucet. Make sure you blow out your black tank flush, exterior shower too.

Kelvin

cajohnson · 10-16-2016, 11:32 AM

Which brings up the belt/suspenders question. Do I still need to fill the lines with the antifreeze or is the compressor going to be good enough. I realize this is kind of like the can of worms I once opened with the hitch question but I'd sure like to hear what people have found to be true.

SpletKay06 · 10-16-2016, 12:49 PM

Oil less air compressors are less likely to get oil in your water lines but just make sure and rinse them out really good in the spring, you should be fine. You well need to run some antifreeze threw your water pump, sink drains, toilet etc. All the areas that don't get blow out. Your owners manual should have lots of good info on what you need to do.

Bill M. · 10-16-2016, 01:01 PM

No, all compressors do not have oil or introduce oil to the lines. Use yours if it is a diaphram or oil-less compressor. Do not use it if it is a piston type compressor with an oil tank.

I blow out and then fill the lines with the pink stuff.

Bob662 · 10-16-2016, 03:00 PM

Isn't the amount of oil that might be introduced by "conventional" air compressors so small that it can be ignored? I have a hard time visualizing how this could be a health hazard.

markdoane · 10-16-2016, 03:44 PM

I use my 60 gal oilled compressor, but I use the same filter I use for automotive paint. If it's fine enough to keep oil droplets out of the paint, it's good enough to purge the water lines.
I then follow it with RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) which is a pretty good solvent for any oil that might possibly get past the filter.

CRH · 10-16-2016, 03:47 PM

My compressor has an oil filled cast iron motor. I use it with no worries.

Nuvite-F · 10-16-2016, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cajohnson

Which brings up the belt/suspenders question. Do I still need to fill the lines with the antifreeze or is the compressor going to be good enough.

For what it's worth, here's what I do. I use my shop air compressor (5 HP 2 stage, not oil-free) and set the output filter/regulator for 20 PSI. I open all the faucets and low point drains, and blow air through the system for an hour or two. Then disconnect the air compressor and leave the faucets and drains open. (I close them when I de-winterize the trailer.) During this process be sure to hold the toilet flush pedal down for a minute or two to blow the water out of the toilet valve.

I don't use any antifreeze in the fresh water system. I do put some in the sink and shower traps and a little in the black and gray tanks to keep the dump valve seals wet.

I have been doing this for 10 years or so and haven't had any freezing problems. As always, your mileage may vary.

cajohnson · 10-16-2016, 05:23 PM

Alright. The compressor will work for this application. One final question. Since we're not done for the season but it is dropping below freezing once in a while. So, I'm going to blow it out with the compressor in between trips and then when I button it up for the season I'll blow it out and then do the anti freeze.

When blowing it out with the compressor do I need to do anything with the water pump. I know I need to disconnect the lines afterward to make sure the water drains out if it but do either the intake or export line need to be disconnected during the blowing out?

SpletKay06 · 10-16-2016, 05:29 PM

Theres a check valve that isolates the city water from the water pump so you well need to disconnect it an drain it. Blowing it out from the city water inlet wont get the water out of the pump or strainer.

cajohnson · 10-16-2016, 05:38 PM

So, I won't hurt the pump by blowing the system out through the city water inlet, but then I need to make sure I drain the pump afterward?

SpletKay06 · 10-16-2016, 05:43 PM

Correct

mrdfred · 10-17-2016, 12:03 PM

This months Trailer Life has an article on how to winterize your RV, ("Take the chill off"). Well worth the read! It gives you step-by-step instructions, including the use of an air compressor and anti-freeze.

Streamracer · 10-17-2016, 06:15 PM

On my compressor I've got oil and water traps on it. In all the years I've winterized, I only blow out the lines and add pink antifreeze to the drain traps, toilet and holding tanks. Never have disconnected the water pump. Maybe I've been lucky 25 years plus.

rmatkovich · 10-17-2016, 06:19 PM

I use my shop compressor all the time. I have a good filter system that will not let anything get into the hose past the filter in 40+ some years of doing this all is fine. Hook the hose up at 40LBS and do the job.

USAtraveler · 10-17-2016, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markdoane

I use my 60 gal oilled compressor, but I use the same filter I use for automotive paint. If it's fine enough to keep oil droplets out of the paint, it's good enough to purge the water lines.
I then follow it with RV antifreeze (propylene glycol) which is a pretty good solvent for any oil that might possibly get past the filter.

The Craftsman compressor is not oil-less. Mark's solution is the best.

CRH · 10-17-2016, 09:20 PM

Unless an oil filled pump is worn and has oil escaping by the rings, there should be no worries. Any blow by oil would show up in the water when you drain your compressors tank.

whitegs · 10-18-2016, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nuvite-F

For what it's worth, here's what I do. I use my shop air compressor (5 HP 2 stage, not oil-free) and set the output filter/regulator for 20 PSI. I open all the faucets and low point drains, and blow air through the system for an hour or two. Then disconnect the air compressor and leave the faucets and drains open. (I close them when I de-winterize the trailer.) During this process be sure to hold the toilet flush pedal down for a minute or two to blow the water out of the toilet valve.

I don't use any antifreeze in the fresh water system. I do put some in the sink and shower traps and a little in the black and gray tanks to keep the dump valve seals wet.

I have been doing this for 10 years or so and haven't had any freezing problems. As always, your mileage may vary.

I have done the same with my previous motor home with no problem. I plan on doing so this year with my new FC28. But I notice they put a water filter under the sink. Do I have to remove this and replace it with the clear plastic line or can I leave it in place when i blow out the lines?