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Old 10-30-2007, 12:17 AM   #15
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Thanks Michelle that is something I have not considered. We usually dewinterize and winterize along the way for winter trips from Michigan. If we don't get around to winterizing before a real cold spell I will get the HW heater on too for sure now.
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Old 10-30-2007, 08:49 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by wheel interested
Jack we haven't winterized yet and have run the furnace to keep the tanks from freezing. Should we also be turning on the hot water heater? Would you travel with the hotwater heater on in winter as well? We do run the furnace for long trips in winter on the road.
I turned it on since I know that some of the heat leeches out into the compartment around the heater. In my trailer that includes the city water inlet, the outside faucet and lots of other pipes. It's really not cold enough yet to cause the entire tank contents to freeze. I've been out the last two mornings though to water my new grass and both mornings I've found the hose semi frozen. So obviously smaller amonuts of water (like pipes) might have been frozen right now if I hadn't provided some warmth in the trailer.

Since I've never taken a trip where temps could be below freezing while driving, I'd probably consider draining the tank if that were to occur. I don't know if technically the water heater would run well at all if you were underway. I've heard of some folks who have traveled with the furnace on.

Jack
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Old 10-30-2007, 10:37 AM   #17
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Well I can tell you mine runs fine. I get the red light of "death" if she fails to light more than three times. I have never had that happen. Additionaly if the furnance fails to light she shuts down and I have to cycle power to get it back on line. I have had that once. I don't have the frunace set very high. Maybe 45-50 while travelling. THis keeps everything from freezing. I checked on my tank heat and found it just pushed down next to my fresh water tank. There was little airflow out the small tube. Since there is no restriction down stream of the tee there is little pushing the air into the tanks. I plan on putting a diversion tab in the duct to push more air dwon there.
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Old 10-30-2007, 10:46 AM   #18
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Greetings.

I just winterized last weekend. Opened four low point drain valves, removed the next-to-impossible-to-access HWH drain plug and drained that.

Holding tanks empty???

Blew out lines USING 50 PSI. Don't go to much higher than that.

The PITA for me was that I had to hitch up the AS, pull it on to a stack of four Linx levelers (streetside) to get the small amount of water to run to the end of the water tank where the drain is. I'm guessing since it was a small amount of water, I could have left it in there to freeze, since there was lots of room for it to contract, I thought this was safer. I should have emptied the FWT when the wife asked me "Aren't you going to empty the FWT like you always do before we break camp" DOH!

Before blowing out the lines, I raised and lowered the jack a few times to try and drain as much water as possible before running the air compressor. Don't forget to blow out the black tank rinse, if you have that.

I did make a major breakthrough this year: I unscrewed the translucent filter thing that was attached to the inlet part of the pump. Not only was I able to really get a good look at the shape of the filter, but there was just enought room between the pump and the FWT to now connect the hose that came with the Camco winterizing kit. The other end goes into the antifreeze. The filter thing just unscrews. I thought it was permanenly attached! Another DOH!!

After four seasons, the filter was remarkable clean. Probably because I filter incoming water with a water filter that I replace yearly.

The good: I used only about one gallon and a quart of antifreeze for the lines. I start with the shower, then toilet/sprayer, working my way up front, and repeat. I ran until I saw pink and then a few seconds more.

The great: I did not have to add the antifreeze stuff to the FWT this year!

Of coarse add about a cup to all drains, and don't forget to plug the drains in case of evaporation.

Lastly, I also pull the holding tank valves to get rid a the small amount of water that have gone in them from the blow-out process.

We still have plans to do Thanksgiving out, but we will have electricity. I'll shlepp a few five gallon water jugs. We keep one of those in the shower. We fill the toilet manually. So the only thing for us to rewinterize is the shower drain and the toilet. The campground has a dump, and water to rinse.

Every inch of my life is so planned. If I wasn't so ugly, I should have been in the army and been the coolest four star beer-brewin' general in the whole world.

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Old 11-14-2007, 12:47 PM   #19
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Hi Folks,

I'm the guy who started this thread wondering if I _really_ had to either blow out the freshwater lines or put in the pink stuff to make our little jewel safe for the winter. We'd already opened every valve, dumped the water heater, opened all the drains and then driven 100 miles over hill and dale with it all wide open. I just couldn't understand how a significant amount of water could remain in the lines after that.

So here's a datapoint that might be considered a word of warning:

Just to be extra-absolutely-sure, we blew out the lines at 45PSI with an air compressor last night, and darned if we didn't get a coupla CUPS of water between the faucets, toilet, and lowpoint drains. That was enough to scare the heck out of me, and we'll be either blowing or pink-gooing our lines from now on.

Scary,
Jon
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Old 11-14-2007, 01:03 PM   #20
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Better safe than sorry...anti-freeze is cheap in the long run!

Shari
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Old 11-14-2007, 01:10 PM   #21
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hey good follow up toasty!

i'd suggest adding antifreeze to all the drain traps and 1/4 gallon or so to the toilet bowl...

antifreeze in the traps helps reduce odor migration from the tanks...

and the rubber gasket in the bowl will dry out and stick...

so next year the bowl won't seal well

or worse even leak poo smell

have a not too cold southern ohio winter!

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-14-2007, 01:29 PM   #22
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Hi 2air,

Already did the antifreeze in the drains thing. We're hoping to make a small trip south this winter, which will break up that southern ohio winter, so we didn't want to do the pink stuff til January.

Actually, we _like_ winter. I just wish we'd get a little more of it here. Been warm and very very very dry here in the Ohio Valley. Drought stinks.

Whatcha been up to? Galavanting around the US of A as usual in that beautiful coach?

jon
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Old 11-14-2007, 01:40 PM   #23
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yep.

off to texas soon.

i made the mistake of not having enough water in the toilet bowl for 2 weeks this summer.

the water evaporated and the gasket stuck to the trap door...

so now i keep a little antifreeze in the john, for summer use too.

i passed thru cinci' into kentucky 3 times this year. pulling the 34 in rush hour was interesting....

see ya camping soon!

2air'
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Old 11-14-2007, 01:55 PM   #24
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Thanks for the tip on the bicycle hand pump to pump out the lines. My partner suggested that this fall, it sounded good, but a neighbor lent me his compressor. Now I know!
Gwen
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Old 11-14-2007, 02:42 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazylev
blah blah blah

Blew out lines USING 50 PSI. Don't go to much higher than that.

blah blah blah
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toasty's Dad
blah blah blah

Just to be extra-absolutely-sure, we blew out the lines at 45PSI with an air compressor last night, and darned if we didn't get a coupla CUPS of water between the faucets, toilet, and lowpoint drains.

blah blah blah
My manual says to blow the lines using 60 PSI. Why are you guys using less PSI? Inquiring minds want to know
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Old 11-14-2007, 05:38 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky
My manual says to blow the lines using 60 PSI. Why are you guys using less PSI? Inquiring minds want to know
HAVE USED 60PSI SINCE GETTING THE CLASSIC....NO PROBLEM
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Old 11-14-2007, 08:15 PM   #27
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RE Pressure to blow out the lines:

Umm, the only reason I used 45 pounds was pretty much a wild guess. Figured 45 couldn't be too much, and I was too lazy to look it up.

Also, my dinky little compressor tank doesn't run outta air quite so fast at that pressure.

Lata,
jon
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Old 11-14-2007, 08:57 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky
My manual says to blow the lines using 60 PSI...
as i recall the water lines are 'pressure tested' to 90 psi during construction...

so the issue is, how much air pressure is enough to move water, working line by line...

while the manual says "at least 60 psi" i question this and have done fine with much less...

i've also over shot and ruptured the pre pump filter/screen thingie...

the interior volume of the water lines isn't great and doesn't expand much, so a compressor can over shot quickly.

we discussed this issue some in another toasty's dad thread last spring...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f458...uck-22185.html

IF using a compressor remember it should be one without internal oil lubrication...

which is another nasty taste 4 the water lines...

cheers
2air'
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