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Old 07-03-2013, 08:46 PM   #81
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I have a near 3 year old...I know all about it....believe me...
2 and 3 year olds, it's like being on suicide watch...
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:33 PM   #82
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Here is what I did. We took these and welded to a square plate. We then sunk the assembly into the wet concrete... and leveled.
Headed Concrete Anchor - Weld Base Diameter - 1/4" | Headed Concrete Anchors - BlueArc Stud Welding

You can then weld to them for your uprights.. and it will be really secure.
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:26 PM   #83
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Excellent idea!

I am thinking I want a fairly simple roof system that is wide and long enough to provide cover from debris - rain - etc but leaves the AS open to view

Saw this basic steel beam and flat steel roof system searching on google that looked great - key me fin that link
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:32 PM   #84
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http://www.steelmasterusa.com/wp-con...rv-carport.gif
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:34 PM   #85
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Oh, nuts.. now I have a similar idea!!! hahaha

I am thinking of building my own....but this looks reeeealy nice.
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Old 07-03-2013, 11:26 PM   #86
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I bought a 20x40 unit last year. Unfortunately it lies unassembled in my storage shed due to complications with getting a permit from the county I live in. Seems the previous owner of the house I purchased in 2009 constructed the storage shed ( housing my steel master carport) in 1995 and didn't get a permit to build it. The county is holding all building permits on my property hostage until I file a post construction "special permit" for the storage shed the previous owner constructed. Ticks me off... Seems unfair that I have to pay for the mistake of another. Oh well, such is life!
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:31 AM   #87
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Just getting caught up on this thread...

The grass blocks look interesting, but does that mean you have to mow your driveway? I can see that this concept may have some industrial applications, but I'm not sure that I want to come back from an extended road trip to an overgrown driveway that I would have to mow before I could park my Bambi and pickup.
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Old 07-04-2013, 06:53 AM   #88
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Lyl - sounds like a pain!!!

The grasscrete is chosen if you want things to blend better - I will be doing some version of this if needed later - even after rain - my grass i think will hold up - we will see - drive truck over this area while wet and no problems
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Old 07-04-2013, 06:55 AM   #89
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Oh, nuts.. now I have a similar idea!!! hahaha

I am thinking of building my own....but this looks reeeealy nice.
I know right !

I requested a quote

Any idea of best dimensions - how much extra length and width is desirable in a build ?
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Old 07-04-2013, 09:02 AM   #90
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I would say at least 12 ft high and 12 ft wide. Some extra length would be nice. 5 ft or more if you have the room.
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Old 07-04-2013, 09:33 AM   #91
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I would say at least 12 ft high and 12 ft wide. Some extra length would be nice. 5 ft or more if you have the room.
Agreed. You will need/want it to give room to walk perimeter without dodging building supports.

Rain rarely falls straight down and if roof edge close there will be a lot of splashing of ground dirt onto your nice shiny AS. Building "wider" gives walking and splash room. Wider also means better cover in event of hail. Same with length.

If your objective is "storage" only, build it to fit comfortably realizing you will have to move "out" for any work or to prep for trip.

So if you have space, build with lots of space because should you need to move the next owners may have other uses for the space.

I have 11 feet wide drive next to my shop and it is inadequate for anything but storage of our AS at my home. I usually go around behind the shop for access to stern storage.


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I plan to build tall enough to comfortably work on top. Will have access at front and rear to roof. This will require building a cantilever roof off my existing shop roof and removal of current roof overhang.

Or I can keep it in this unit. It is16x40 for $230a month.

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Here is my son standing at rear of AS with about 3 feet in front of tongue to front door of storage room. Fully enclosed.

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Old 07-04-2013, 11:30 AM   #92
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16x40 and only that much room lengthwise left over?? Was the front near tongue left with more room?
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:11 PM   #93
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Two quick thoughts not addressed yet..
1. You mentioned much earlier a front hitch on truck.. Those are great idea for backing through obstacle course (though you may still need a helper with a radio..). One concern is that many are rated for max of 500#, and tongue weight of your new trailer is a lot more than that... Worth checking before proceeding.
2. Comment about leaving uncovered and hoping for rain misses fact that sun does a lot of damage to trailers, including interiors.. In your area, if you are using the trailer on weekends you are going to notice leaks, since it rains pretty frequently.. Go ahead and arrange for cover, and include side cover on south-facing side to keep windows, curtains, etc. from getting fried..

We keep ours alongside our house, and keep it stocked with dry food and clothing, water bottles, etc. as an emergency earthquake/disaster shelter.. You may want to keep yours prepped for quick getaways also, or drop in visitors.. That means 50A power and a water line accessible..
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:30 PM   #94
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I will not go for the front hitch until I find it more necessary...good point about the limitation on tongue weight...deal breaker right there if that is accurate. I am having the only real obstacle removed on monday...other than that, it will be quite easy to navigate actually...

The area that I am placing it sees little or no sunlight, there are a number of oak trees surrounding and the area does not support grass...I keep pine straw down there...although with the removal of this tree, perhaps some sun will pop in...

My hope was that leaving it uncovered until 2/2014 I will be fine....I will get a nice chunk of money at that point to cover the expense of covering it...but if could swing doing this before that if I feel necessary...im waiting on quote from the steel building people...that will start to give me some ideas on cost...then I will need to get permit for cover back there and I guess electrical hookups and what not...

If I could park it underground and retreat to it in the case of tornadoes, that would be nice...but I suspect that will cost more
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:32 PM   #95
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I am not sure of the utility of having electric/water to the trailer...as it sets right next to my house and a few steps from the kitchen etc in the house anyway...
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:49 PM   #96
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By 'utility' do you mean usefulness. I don't have water or sewer at our carport, but I did install a 30amp receptacle. It is very handy. Gives us flexibility to 'camp' in the backyard with the AC, etc. Last week I was working in the AS installing shelves etc and I had the AC on since it was pretty hot. If you don't install power initially at least make provisions to add later. This might not require any planning based on your circumstances or it might mean burying some conduit under your slab to make pulling wire in the future possible.....
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:55 PM   #97
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WHOA, that was a slip up....

What I meant to say was that I AM going to get electric hooked up (other brother is an electrician, already talked to him about it. What I am uncertain about is the "utility" or "usefulness" of water and sewer....not "water/electric"....I slipped up there.
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:57 PM   #98
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16x40 and only that much room lengthwise left over?? Was the front near tongue left with more room?
I had about 2 feet in front by door if I recall
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Old 07-04-2013, 01:00 PM   #99
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oh, I forget you have a 34'....that is 34' bumper to tongue? This would leave you with total 6 feet....if equal 3 feet front and 3 feet back...seems like you are tighter than that in that photos
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Old 07-04-2013, 01:40 PM   #100
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Most 34-footers are actually closer to being 35 feet, oddly enough... And yes, all AS measurements are bumper to tip of the hitch.
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