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Old 06-15-2014, 07:59 AM   #1
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2014 16' Sport
Bradenton , Florida
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Short Term Storage Tips?

Hi, newbie 16 ft Sport owner here, 1st RV. I'm parking my new pride and joy behind my house in Florida, partially concrete pad and partially grass (for now) and wondering what to do between trips, probably every 4-6 weeks until I retire at the end of the year. I've covered the tires and put in a tub of DampRid for the humidity. Sounds like having the tires directly on concrete isn't good so will use some rubber matting when I next move it. I have power available - do I leave it plugged in all the time, periodically, just prior to the next trip? Same question with battery on/off switch. Other tips?
Thanks!
Irene
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:49 AM   #2
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2004 16' International CCD
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I'm interested to hear the answers that you get.

My suggestions include:

I like to keep my trailer plugged in all the time so that I can tinker with it I keep the battery switch in the "STORE" position so that I don't overcharge the battery. Then I check the battery fluid and put the battery switch into "USE" 24 hours before my next trip to top off the battery. I like to empty out the frig. and dry it out. When I'm done I leave it propped open. I also like to drain the water tank too, although if you have city water that is chlorinated you might be able to get away with leaving it in the tank.
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Old 06-15-2014, 10:32 AM   #3
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So, if the batteries are on store you can't overcharge?
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Old 06-15-2014, 10:34 AM   #4
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We have our tires on a concrete pad. We leave the trailer plugged in at all times (even winter) with 2 6v AGM batteries. We have never had problems doing this with this type of battery. We have a Progressive Dynamics converter. We do turn off the frig and prop doors open between trips. We also drain all water out of the fresh system between trips, and when we refill for a trip, I always open the drain on the fresh water tank for the first few minutes of filling (to make sure it's all fresh water since there's always a little left in the tank after draining). Only dry or canned foods properly encased in rodent proof containers are left in the trailer between trips, and nothing left in there in the winter. Our environment is a little different than yours, so Damp-rid makes sense for you (although we're having enough rain here right now to refloat California's aquifers!). I also leave the roof vents open when the trailer is sitting for ventilation, but we have MaxAir vents so are covered all the time when open. We have never had rain come in these vents when left open like this.

Kay
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Old 06-15-2014, 10:59 AM   #5
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4-6 weeks! That's too long. LOL JK

I leave my trailers plugged in when not in use. But the fridges are turned off and doors propped open. Vent and window cracked in the bathroom. Canned goods stay in place, as do the non-perishable sealed items (coco, sugar, Bisquick, etc.)

I've stored mine on concrete and metal plates with no I'll effects for the last 12 years (Utah with a annual temp shift of 105 between winter and summer), and unless somebody shoes me some real evidence, how chemically tires on a trailer break down on concrete and cars tires do not.... I'll just keep storing like that. The biggest thing there is to cover the tires from uva/uvb light and check pressure before a tie to look for a change.

I've seen more tie blow on the road due to low tire pressure than I have of anything else in 25 years of towing.
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Old 06-15-2014, 11:37 AM   #6
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2012 30' Classic
Homosassa , Florida
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I live in Florida as well and have enclosed storage for our 30'. I plug it in usually a few days after returning from a trip and I leave it plugged up until next trip. The tires are on the concrete floor. I add water to the batteries 2 or 3 times a year and it has the same batteries that came in 2011. I am planning a charger change next winter and a switch to AGMs. I flush the fresh water tank each February and keep the tank filled and replenished until November when I drain it. I keep about 5 gallons in the black and gray tanks year round
I put fabric softener in both. I clean A/C filters after each trip as well as vacuum and swifter the floor. I just updated the firmware in TV and bluray. We're heading to Daytona in 10 days so everything is ready to go. Most importantly, it's about having fun. Also, I sealed every rivet with clear from A/S. I wax once a year with liquid glass. Have fun and enjoy the new trailer.

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Old 06-16-2014, 07:44 AM   #7
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Just a thought. If I was living in a humid environment, like Florida, I would think about putting a dehumidifier in. Since you leave it plugged in full time you got the power. You could mount it on the counter and run a drain hose into the sink so there's no containers to be emptied on a regular basis. Whether you do this or not consider a new multi-stage convertor to extend the life of your battery(s). That is if you haven't already thought of that.
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Old 06-16-2014, 10:47 AM   #8
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2005 19' Safari
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If you have the OEM converter, leaving your Airstream connected to shore power 24/7 will overcharge and boil your batteries dry, which will eventually ruin them. Battery life is typically shortened to 1-2 years, if you are lucky.

This can easily be avoided by installing a battery isolator switch, or a better converter. Personally, I use a Perko Marine Battery Isolator Switch. See details, at link below:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ch-109379.html

The photos in the post above were removed by a moderator. For a PDF of these instructions that includes photos, please send me a PM (private message).

I'm sure others will provide their upgraded converter recommendations.
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Old 06-16-2014, 03:09 PM   #9
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2004 16' International CCD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix View Post
If you have the OEM converter, leaving your Airstream connected to shore power 24/7 will overcharge and boil your batteries dry, which will eventually ruin them.
Doesn't selecting the STORE position on the USE/STORE switch electrically isolate the battery from the converter? If so wouldn't the STORE position prevent overcharging the battery?
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Old 06-16-2014, 05:45 PM   #10
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STORE switch......not!

On my 2001 Safari, the STORE switch disconnects the battery from the DC distribution and fuse panel, but not from the converter. Here are a couple of simple tests to find out how your trailer is configured.

1. For older trailers with the rotary store switch, turn on a DC device like a light or fan. With shore power connected and the converter operational, place the STORE switch in the STORE position, if the device goes off, then your trailer is configured like mine and the converter is still connected to the battery.

2. For vehicles or trailers with a push button electronic STORE switch, disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. With shore power connected and the converter energized, using a meter or test lamp, measure from the battery positive to the trailer negative cable (not the battery negative post). If voltage is present, the converter is still connected to the battery cable.

In either case, if the converter is connected to the battery, unless you have a modern 3-stage converter, the battery can be damaged by leaving shore power connected regardless of the position of the STORE switch.

Al
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Old 06-17-2014, 01:07 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
2. For vehicles or trailers with a push button electronic STORE switch, disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. With shore power connected and the converter energized, using a meter or test lamp, measure from the battery positive to the trailer negative cable (not the battery negative post). If voltage is present, the converter is still connected to the battery cable.

In either case, if the converter is connected to the battery, unless you have a modern 3-stage converter, the battery can be damaged by leaving shore power connected regardless of the position of the STORE switch.
Al
Shiver me timbers! Thank you very much for straightening me out on this Al & Phoenix. I guess my idea of STORE is different from Airstream's. I've got to go unplug my trailer and check my electrolyte levels! I'll try to find time later this week to perform your recommended test. You've probably saved me from buying a battery.

Thanks again.
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Old 06-17-2014, 05:30 AM   #12
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Bradenton , Florida
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Thanks for all the great responses! I have a new trailer, and see that it has a 3 stage converter, manual says it goes into "float mode" if plugged in and not being used. I think I will get a dehumidifier and set up as you suggested Roger, good idea. I need to look into all the MaxxAir Vent and Fantastic-Fan with rain sensor reviews and figure out what to have installed so I can leave a vent open. I'm in the process of ordering LED bulbs to replace the interior ones now. Tater, I am definitely looking forward to having fun with it and did have a fun one night camp out with my granddaughter, but there sure is a lot of stuff to buy and learn at first! Who'd have ever thought I'd be spending my time researching generators and sewer hose supports! :>}
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:10 AM   #13
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I live in Fl and leave my trailer plugged in all the time. I check the battery level periodically and leave a fan on. The fan keeps the humidity down. Once a week or so I run the AC to really dry things out. I leave the fridge on since I store camping supplies in there. I do have a thirty amp hookup, a good idea if you can afford it. Best suggestion I can give is check every day or two to see if all is hunky dory inside. Ps, I run the fan, it is a standard box fan, on high to really circulate the air, and is also leave closet and storage doors agar. Hope this helps. Jim
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:30 AM   #14
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The way you are currently storing should be fine. I have stored that way for 4 years. Some weeks I never even unhook the truck 'n' trailer. I leave them parked hitched up so I can get to the lake quicker Friday afternoon. They're sitting in the back yard ready to go now.
I do have ambitions to pour more concrete pad and build an Airstream shelter, but I have yo do one thing at a time as the money happens. If the weather is wet and rainy I park it in the front driveway.
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