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Old 11-25-2002, 10:08 PM   #1
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RV Antifreeze Quality

Has anyone detected any quality issues between generic RV antifreeze and name brands like Prestone RV antifreeze? I remember that my water valve in my Aqua Magic toilet failed after about 7 years. Upon disassembly I found that the rubber valves within the flushing mechnisim had degenerated almost to the point of what looked like disintegration. I often wondered if the cause was the generic antifreeze I used.

Since that time I have used the Prestone product. I've had no failures but cannot prove that the Prestone product differs chemically from the generic brands. I do notice that the generic brands tend to stain any surface within the sink, tub, or toilet if it sits on a surface all winter. The Prestone product does not seem to do that under the same conditions.

Jack
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Old 11-26-2002, 07:59 AM   #2
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Sorry never used any of either yet.

Is the Prestone pink as well?
What is the cost of the Prestone?
Is the Wal-Mart stuff considered generic?

Do you add it to your fresh water tank?
Do you drink from the fresh water system or just use it for washing & flushing?
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Old 11-26-2002, 09:15 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally posted by hex
Sorry never used any of either yet.

Is the Prestone pink as well?
What is the cost of the Prestone?
Is the Wal-Mart stuff considered generic?

Do you add it to your fresh water tank?
Do you drink from the fresh water system or just use it for washing & flushing?
Yep it is pink. Probably $.75-$1 more than the generic. Yes, although generic to me is a branded product that I don't recognize.

Yes. I do that because my Safari does not have an easily removable panel to gain access to the water pump. Otherwise I would put in a valve assembly to pump directly from the bottle.

In the past with my previous trailers we have used the tank for drinking purposes. It requires some pretty good flushing but I could get it clean enough without any lingering antifreeze traces or taste.

At this point, while I flush the tank in the Safari each spring, I have always been to campsites with city water hookups.

The danger in using the water tank method of winterizing is the fact that your tank may not empty completely when drained. This is due to the position of the drain within the tank. Any water remaining in the tank will dilute the antifreeze you add.

Jack
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Old 11-26-2002, 11:29 AM   #4
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It amazes me that Airstream doesn't put an antifreeze hookup ahead of the pump. The way my pump is mounted next to the wheelwell in the bottom of the closet, with hard plastic pipe, I had to completely unmount the pump from the floor to move it enough to get a hose on the input. And I'm gonna have to replumb it next spring to get the adapter in the line. There's all kinds of room down there and with a little thought they could make it a lot easier to get an adapter in there, even if they aren't going to provide one!
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Old 11-26-2002, 07:36 PM   #5
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I haven't tried either (generic or Prestone) yet. I'm new to RV-ing, but spent $1,200 last Spring because the previous owner of my 76 Int'l Ambassador failed to winterize. Had the copper tubing replaced with PVC.

Now I discover that the only page missing from my Owner's Manual is 43/44 which includes instructions for winterizing. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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Old 11-26-2002, 08:42 PM   #6
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cullarK;

Welcome to the AirstreamForums. I see you joined up back in May and this is your first Post. And a fellow TEXAN!!

If you have not seen it, we have an ongoing Post/Thread going on winterizing. Made a Sticky so that it is at the top.

Winterizing Posts. Just click here to go....

-BobbyW
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Old 11-26-2002, 09:02 PM   #7
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Question scuse my ignorance...again but

Moe am I correct in assuming that you want to have anti-freeze thru-out the fresh water supply system, but not in the fresh-water tank? Or do you just want to use the anti freeze to push the water out of the lines leaving them empty except for any unknown low spots which would then have the anti-freeze.? Any guesses as to the capacity of the system on your 34 footer?

Would there be any value in rigging up a syphon bottle on the shore supplied water hose and then on into the on board system. I assume a check valve keeps the city water out of the fresh-water tank??

The syphon bottle would be like a garden chemical sprayer. You would of course have a diluted solution thru-out. But the strength of the soulution could be calculated and applied accordingly. Or is the pink stuff not to be dilluted? When the drains flowed pink, shut off the hose and let the remainder syphon out the lowest drain, making sure there is still some pink in the syphon bottle. Wouldn't that leave an empty supply system with a solution in any low spots?

Undoubtebly I am flat overlookin something here.
Ah the beauty of the delete button.
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Old 11-27-2002, 04:04 PM   #8
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Re: scuse my ignorance...again but

Quote:
Originally posted by hex
Moe am I correct in assuming that you want to have anti-freeze thru-out the fresh water supply system, but not in the fresh-water tank? Or do you just want to use the anti freeze to push the water out of the lines leaving them empty except for any unknown low spots which would then have the anti-freeze.? Any guesses as to the capacity of the system on your 34 footer?

It really comes down to forcing any fresh water out of the water lines. Much like blowing out the lines with air. I just don't have an air pump that will create enough volume to get the lines completely clear, hence the addition of RV antifreeze to make sure of that fact.

Normally draining the fresh water tank is all you need to do, no antifreeze required there. I'm not sure though how those who do not use antifreeze deal with residual water left in the water pump.

I doubt that the capacity of any A/S, minus the hot water tank exceeds one gallon. You do need to deal with the drain traps so one or two gallons should be sufficient.

I buy three gallons, and put two of the three in my fresh water tank. One gallon in most fresh water tanks is barely enough for the pump to pick up without also drawing air.

Jack
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Old 11-27-2002, 04:32 PM   #9
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Flushing water pump

I unscrew input and output connections on the pump (plastic wingnuts). Then, I remove the filter and shake it out. If it looks like there is anything in the filter, I back flush it.

Finally, I stuff a paper towel over the output of the pump and turn the pump on for a few seconds. I can hear the pump go clear of water and the water is all in the paper towel. Then, I reassemble everything. Whole process takes only a couple of minutes.

This is the 3rd trailer that I have done this on and I have never had a pump problem.
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