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Old 09-11-2010, 08:59 AM   #15
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Oh yeah, remove the soap bars as well. Most are made of processed animal fat and palm oil, among other things.
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Old 09-11-2010, 10:09 AM   #16
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This is the best mouse trap I have ever used, it can be washed and you dont have to touch the mouse.
Catch and kill rodents inside the trap with d-CON® Ultra Set® Traps
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Old 09-11-2010, 11:44 AM   #17
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This trap requires bait, which will 'attract' mice, which may not be the ones that wondered in. I prefer to deal with the wondering mice rather than attracting "passers-by".
Also, these traps appear to be difficult to wash-if you're into cleaning mouse remains in your sink (?)
I tried a "humane" live trap and I didn't retrieve it soon enough and had decomposing mouse (fluids) to contend with---discarded and replaced with a fresh trap.
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Old 09-27-2010, 12:17 AM   #18
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I full time in a 2008 classic without slideout, in N Arizona. Last year I didn't have any problems with mice, but this year there was a population explosion due to a rainy winter. I have caught over 12 in traps in a few months.
I can say about the peppermint oil, it is very expensive and doesn't work for more than a few weeks if at all.
Right now I am focusing on plugging up holes where they get in. The biggest problem is the outside drawer on the bumper. The channels where the wheels run are hard to plug up and afford easy entry for the critters. If one loosens the bolts inside the drawer that act as drawer stops the drawer can be removed. One can then see at least 4 large hole that provide entry into the trailer. For some reason, there are two holes at the far end of the drawer well that the rails of the drawer slides into. If they were plugged, the drawer could not be closed.
Any suggestions?
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Old 09-27-2010, 10:22 PM   #19
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Suggest Cab Fresh

I've used a product called Cab Fresh and it actually worked -no mice. Farmers use it when storing equipment. Farm implement dealers carry it and I think I last bought it at an RV dealer . Good stuff, all natural and a pleasant pine smell .
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Old 09-27-2010, 10:46 PM   #20
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Mice

I can't really comment specifically from airstream experience but we live in the country and have issues at home with field mice. Orkin comes regularly and thye use steel wool to block all of the holes where mice might access the house so I think the steel wool suggestion in the thread above makes sense. Apparently, they don't like going through it or chewing it.

Thought I'd pass this on.

Glad I partiicpate in this forum as I learn new things every day - have not thought much about cleaning the unit out for winter to avoid mouse infestations. Now I've added this to my list!
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Old 09-27-2010, 11:07 PM   #21
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I full time in a 2008 classic without slideout, in N Arizona. Last year I didn't have any problems with mice, but this year there was a population explosion due to a rainy winter. I have caught over 12 in traps in a few months.
I can say about the peppermint oil, it is very expensive and doesn't work for more than a few weeks if at all.
Right now I am focusing on plugging up holes where they get in. The biggest problem is the outside drawer on the bumper. The channels where the wheels run are hard to plug up and afford easy entry for the critters. If one loosens the bolts inside the drawer that act as drawer stops the drawer can be removed. One can then see at least 4 large hole that provide entry into the trailer. For some reason, there are two holes at the far end of the drawer well that the rails of the drawer slides into. If they were plugged, the drawer could not be closed.
Any suggestions?
I took the drawer completely out and cut pieces of aluminum screening to fit a little larger than the holes and glued them in place with clear silicon.
I did that in all the access places like the inside of the little side boxes that are in the banana wrap. I wanted to leave them open for air circulation but block the area from mice and bugs. Also did the same thing in the front where the frame is joined together. The screening stays in place. It took me a whole afternoon to seal up all the holes this way. There are quite a few to cover over and some are odd shaped.
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Old 09-28-2010, 10:37 AM   #22
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After having an uninvited guest a while ago, I decided prevention is better than cure, and I'm in the process of blocking every hole I can find. I have ordered some perforated aluminum sheet from amazon. and I'm cutting sections of this to rivet over the openings. the perforated holes are very small and still allows the AS to 'breath'. Also behind the sheet I've fixed a small section of wire bug sheet to stop anything that is small enough to get through the perforated holes. I have sealed the openings at the end of the A-frame, the holes in the rear frame accessed from the bumper compartment, various holes underneath, closed off the dump valve area, and I'm currently working out how to block the slots the step runs along, I think it will be along the lines of a temporary cover that can be removed and reinstalled when you have to extend the step, but still working on it.
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Old 09-28-2010, 12:05 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by pstrominger View Post
I full time in a 2008 classic without slideout, in N Arizona. Last year I didn't have any problems with mice, but this year there was a population explosion due to a rainy winter. I have caught over 12 in traps in a few months.
I can say about the peppermint oil, it is very expensive and doesn't work for more than a few weeks if at all.
Right now I am focusing on plugging up holes where they get in. The biggest problem is the outside drawer on the bumper. The channels where the wheels run are hard to plug up and afford easy entry for the critters. If one loosens the bolts inside the drawer that act as drawer stops the drawer can be removed. One can then see at least 4 large hole that provide entry into the trailer. For some reason, there are two holes at the far end of the drawer well that the rails of the drawer slides into. If they were plugged, the drawer could not be closed.
Any suggestions?
You guys have me lookin'. It appears on my 30' that the drawer rail passes though a hole in the back of the drawer cassette, through a hole in a frame cross member. BUT, I see another "wall" of galvanized forward of the frame cross member. So a rodent could get into the drawer and a small portion of the underbelly, but could not gain access to the rest of the underbelly????? Nothing passes through the floor into the "house" until well forward of this wall of galvanized. It still wopuld be nice to keep them out of that space, but I'm confused how screen can be placed over these openings when the drawer rail must pass through them when closed?????
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Old 09-28-2010, 12:46 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluto View Post
I took the drawer completely out and cut pieces of aluminum screening to fit a little larger than the holes and glued them in place with clear silicon.
I did that in all the access places like the inside of the little side boxes that are in the banana wrap. I wanted to leave them open for air circulation but block the area from mice and bugs. Also did the same thing in the front where the frame is joined together. The screening stays in place. It took me a whole afternoon to seal up all the holes this way. There are quite a few to cover over and some are odd shaped.
I also wanted to mention my method of preventing entry through the banana wrap compartments. I took the extra closed cell weatherstrip material I used for the screen door and ran it around the perimeter of the wrap doors. It doesn't seal completely, but keeps most of the water and dirt out and certainly will keep out mice (unless they like the EPDM rubber for lunch....we'll see how it works).
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Old 12-02-2010, 01:54 PM   #25
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Rodents

Had a problem last year which was challenging but the following solution did work. Get some moth balls, place a few in some margarine containers with some holes punched in the top and place them around inside. Come spring remove the containers and air out the trailer some and you are good to go. The rodents hate the smell of mothballs and it can destroy their sense of smell. Anyway it has worked for many RVers.
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Old 12-02-2010, 03:19 PM   #26
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I always used mothballs in my old SOB with great success. After about 10 - 12 years of using them (with no mice), the odor remained permanently... the "Boss" has banned them from the AS!
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Old 12-02-2010, 03:23 PM   #27
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PS....Don't tell her, but I'm still using them in the rear bumper drawer. Maybe they'll keep them out of there.
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Old 12-07-2010, 10:22 PM   #28
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I think I figured out what the problem is when I saw a photo of the board of directors of Airstream. They all had strangely pointed noses, and there was a hairless tail poking up from behind one of the chairs. No wonder all Airstream trailers come equipped with secret mouse entry doors.

Seriously, my neighbor lives full time in a Jayco trailer, and over the summer he caught a total of 2 mice in his trailer, while I caught 12-15 in my 2008 34' Classic Airstream. My neighbor does have a dog, and possibly spends more time in his trailer than I do in mine. There are giant holes in my Airstream for the mice to get in, behind the drawer in the bumper and elsewhere. They don't make any effort at all at the factory to make it hard for the critters to get in.

I'm having someone fashion sleeves made of 1/4" galvanized mesh that will go into the holes behind the drawer, so mice can be prevented entry while the drawer can still be closed. It is not an easy job.
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