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Old 11-04-2012, 02:03 PM   #1
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Question on compressor and blowing out lines

Hi All,

I am planning on just blowing out the lines and putting pink stuff in the traps to winterize our AS here in Central Texas.

Several other posts said to NOT exceed 60psi; my owner's manual says to make sure there is at least 60psi, but says nothing of a maximum.

Since I know nothing about air compressors, I'm wondering what *size* compressor I need for this job, and how to limit the pressure that comes out of it. Is a compressor with a 1 gallon tank big enough, or is a 3 gallon tank better?

Where I store our AS, there is a big compressor with over 100psi (for filling big motorhome tires). I assume that is too much pressure for blowing out the lines, correct?
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:08 PM   #2
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I have a 100 lb compressor too. My technique is to blow out one faucet at a time. DO NOT BLOW AIR WITHOUT HAVING AT LEAST ONE FAUCET OPEN. And then I think your fine.
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:37 PM   #3
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I have a 100 lb compressor too. My technique is to blow out one faucet at a time. DO NOT BLOW AIR WITHOUT HAVING AT LEAST ONE FAUCET OPEN. And then I think your fine.
That is exactly how I do it because my regulator is shot. Just make sure everything is open when you attach the hose from the compresso and then go inside, grab a beer and work the faucets one at a time (make sure one is always open) and dont forget the hopper. Sal
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:37 PM   #4
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Hi All,


.................................................. ......

Several other posts said to NOT exceed 60psi; my owner's manual says to make sure there is at least 60psi, but says nothing of a maximum.

?
Who do you suppose knows best what pressure to use?
Several other guys, or the people that built the trailer?

I use a large compressor that has an adjustable pressure. I set it at 80 psi.

Regarding what size you need:
It is more important to have a decent CFM capacity than a large storage tank. I think that a smaller compressor will work, but just take longer.

Remember to finish up with all faucets closed. Then open one at a time, starting at the highest and working you way down to the low point drains. Leave each one open until there is not even vaspor coming out. I repeat this about 3 times from top to bottom.

Ken
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:49 PM   #5
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You will have no problem getting the water out at 60psi. You wll have to go through the lines a few times. I also recommend running some rv alcohol into the lines afterwards.
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:18 PM   #6
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I have a 100 lb compressor too. My technique is to blow out one faucet at a time. DO NOT BLOW AIR WITHOUT HAVING AT LEAST ONE FAUCET OPEN. And then I think your fine.
I don't know if I agree with this statement. Let me explain my logic. When you hook up to city water you put the system under a pressure load. This will vary based on where you are and what condition the system is in but if you hook up in front of my house, you will have about 80 lbs pressure. We have pretty high pressure for a city system.

So, why would it matter if you pressurized you system with air versus water? I turn my regulator to 60, pressurize the system and then go in and start opening faucets. I really don't see how this can damage anything.

When you are camping do you open a faucet before you turn on the city water? When you are finished in the trailer do you run out and turn off the tap?

Am I missing something here?
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:20 PM   #7
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Just reread the thread. If you can't adjust the 100 lbs downward, I would concur. I would check if that big compressor has an adjustable regulator on it. I have a relatively cheap 5 gallon number and it has one.
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:30 PM   #8
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The big 100psi compressor will have two gages one for tank pressure and one for line pressure there should be a knob to adjust the line pressure set it to 50 or 60 PSI.

I took an old washing machine hose cut off one end and put on a quick disconnect for the compressor side and screw the other to the water inlet on the RV.
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:05 PM   #9
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RV's have crappy plumbing systems and that is why you should have a regulator to regulate it down to 40psi. I have not hooked my trailer to city water for this reason. I think 60psi is a good maximum. Older trailers with PB tubing and fittings should be concerned about too much pressure. The Polybutylene (PB) fittings tend to fail before the tubing does. Most older trailers have a nightmare of jury rigged/patched plumbing so don't get crazy on the pressure.

Perry
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:14 PM   #10
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As long as you have the faucets open you will be fine with 100lbs or less. It will not be able to build up much pressure as long as the faucets are open and it will force all the water out of the system. Your water pump only pumps up the system to about 45 lbs so you don't need any more then that to force all the water from the pipes. Don't forget to flush the toilet until all the water stops coming out of it, and also the spray for the toilet if you have one.
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:24 PM   #11
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The big 100psi compressor will have two gages one for tank pressure and one for line pressure there should be a knob to adjust the line pressure set it to 50 or 60 PSI.

I took an old washing machine hose cut off one end and put on a quick disconnect for the compressor side and screw the other to the water inlet on the RV.
I am not sure what pressure is proper for an older trailer. However the Manual for my 2010 says at least 60 PSI. The OP is asking about his 2012. His manual says at least 60 PSI. As far as I'm concerned 50-60 PSI is not at least 60 PSI. In fact, I use 80 PSI. I think that it is possible that 60 PSI might be too much for some older trailers. However, for a particular trailer, I believe it is best to follow what the trailer's manual says.

Ken
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aftermath

I don't know if I agree with this statement. Let me explain my logic. When you hook up to city water you put the system under a pressure load. This will vary based on where you are and what condition the system is in but if you hook up in front of my house, you will have about 80 lbs pressure. We have pretty high pressure for a city system.

So, why would it matter if you pressurized you system with air versus water? I turn my regulator to 60, pressurize the system and then go in and start opening faucets. I really don't see how this can damage anything.

When you are camping do you open a faucet before you turn on the city water? When you are finished in the trailer do you run out and turn off the tap?

Am I missing something here?
Nothing missing in your logic. You will achieve the same effect. My thinking simply if you are concerned about too much air pressure, then leave a faucet open and blow away. In my mind, this is a risk free approach. If you are not concerned about too much air pressure, suit yourself and keep the faucets closed.
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:49 PM   #13
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I suspect the answer is no. However does anyone know for sure if the water pressure regulator built into the trailer plumbing of newer trailers will also regulate air pressure?

Ken
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:56 PM   #14
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I suspect the answer is no. However does anyone know for sure if the water pressure regulator built into the trailer plumbing of newer trailers will also regulate air pressure?

Ken
If it is working, pressure is pressure, doesn't matter if it's water or air.
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