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noreen&sal · 11-05-2012, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cojer

i wouldn't do it yourself. i would invite all these folks over to do it for you. it might somehow get done but the entertainment value of watching them all try to reach a consensus on the best way to get it done would be second to none! ha ha

Man, you said it all! Sal

dznf0g · 11-05-2012, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cojer

i wouldn't do it yourself. i would invite all these folks over to do it for you. it might somehow get done but the entertainment value of watching them all try to reach a consensus on the best way to get it done would be second to none! ha ha

Would there be a kegger to help with entertainment?

My Pressure regulator on the AS, (the newer shurflow type) is a 65psi regulator. Spec is molded right on the shell of the regulator. Thus I use 60 psi. and use Perry's method above.

Ag&Au · 11-05-2012, 08:26 AM

We are going in so many directions, it is getting humorous.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim and Tam

"If you follow the owners manual, and you are < or equal to 60 psi you should be fine". .

You have a 2012 trailer. If you are < 60 psi you are doing it wrong. The manual says at least 60 PSI. That means > 60 PSI. According to the manual less than 60 PSI is not fine.

I have had to repair damage from a little bit of water freezing and cracking plastic plumbing. That was in an SOB, where I did not have to dismantle the trailer to reach the plumbing. It was a PITA, I certainly don't want to do it in the Airstream. Therefore "should be fine" is not good enough for me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim and Tam

l"Important thing is "right tool for the job." When all else fails, read the manual". .

When all else has failed, it is too late to read the manual.

Maybe we need to take a poll.

A. Have you ever damaged your plumbing with too much air pressure?

B. Have you ever had water remaining in your plumbing, freeze and cause damage?

I'm putting money on B winning in a landslide.

This thread is about a 2012 trailer, so what I am posting pertains to a modern trailer. I am not willing to guess what is appropriate for an older trailer. Conversely, it is not appropriate to assume what is right for an older trailer will be right for a newer one.

Ken

noreen&sal · 11-05-2012, 08:38 AM

I'm so confused I'm gonna take the 3 gallons of vodka I was going to winterize with and figure something else to do with it. Sal

Gene · 11-05-2012, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by noreen&sal

I'm so confused I'm gonna take the 3 gallons of vodka I was going to winterize with and figure something else to do with it. Sal

I expect we won't be hearing from you for a while when you figure it out.

Gene

noreen&sal · 11-05-2012, 09:38 AM

it semes like its wurgin reeely goood. Sal

barrettjl · 11-05-2012, 05:54 PM

Thanks for the replies. One of the replies said to get a good CFM. Any suggestions on what would be good?

I'm considering a Porter Cable 1gal with 0.75 CFM at 90 PSI and a Porter Cable 6 gal with 2.6 CFM at 90PSI

perryg114 · 11-05-2012, 06:14 PM

You don't need tons of cfm. Pressurize the system till the pressure equalizes then open valves. The plumbing volume and pressure will supply enough flow.

dznf0g · 11-05-2012, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by perryg114

You don't need tons of cfm. Pressurize the system till the pressure equalizes then open valves. The plumbing volume and pressure will supply enough flow.

...and then wait for the compressor to re-pressurize the tank and lines with the faucets all closed...then open the next one...and so on.

Ag&Au · 11-05-2012, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barrettjl

Thanks for the replies. One of the replies said to get a good CFM. Any suggestions on what would be good?

I'm considering a Porter Cable 1gal with 0.75 CFM at 90 PSI and a Porter Cable 6 gal with 2.6 CFM at 90PSI

Let's analyze this a bit. The pressure that is being discussed is static Pressure. In other words, once you open a valve and air starts flowing the pressure is going to be different depending on where it is being measured. At no point will it equal the static pressure until the system is closed and repressurizes. The cubic feet per minute is how much air is flowing through the system. When you get to the point where the water is drops of water clinging to the pipes and small pockets of water in low spots, the CFM is the force of the wind blowing those bits of water along. The faster the wind, the quicker the job will get down. So the lower the CFM, the longer the job will take. It is possible to lower the CFM to the point where the wind will not move the water up hill and you will never clear out all the water. The actual CFM required will vary from trailer to trailer.

My advice is the same I would give when buying any tool. That is to buy the most capable that you can within your budget. A tool is a long term investment, and in the future you may well come across the need for the extra capability that you can purchase now. If you scrimped before, you will then need to buy another tool of the same type, but better capabilities.

Ken

crisen · 11-05-2012, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barrettjl

Thanks for the replies. One of the replies said to get a good CFM. Any suggestions on what would be good?

I'm considering a Porter Cable 1gal with 0.75 CFM at 90 PSI and a Porter Cable 6 gal with 2.6 CFM at 90PSI

The job will take forever with that little guy. I tried doing ours with the 3 gal/1.5 cfm compressor I carry for doing tires etc. It wouldn't even maintain 20 psi with one faucet open and the static set at 60. Finally put the EB in the shop at work with a large commercial compressor and the job was done in few minutes.

Gene · 11-05-2012, 08:22 PM

If you get almost all the water out, the antifreeze will hardly be diluted and will solve the problem. I wouldn't want to use a 1 gal. compressor though. I use my big compressor that I keep in the shop for air tools.

Gene

Ag&Au · 11-05-2012, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

If you get almost all the water out, the antifreeze will hardly be diluted and will solve the problem. I wouldn't want to use a 1 gal. compressor though. I use my big compressor that I keep in the shop for air tools.

Gene

The OP is not planning to put antifreeze in the lines. If you don't, you must be very thorough with the blow out. I'm not going to tell how I know.

Ken

dznf0g · 11-05-2012, 08:38 PM

I use a larger 30 gallon compressor as well, but many folks don't have the room for one of these. Although what Ken and others say is true, if you let the static pressure get back up to 60+, with the faucets closed, you will get that rush, or blast when you open it. It has been my experience that is when you get the most water movement and atomization.

True, it will take a lot longer with the frequent and time consuming recovery times of the small compressor, but it can be just as thorough with a 5 or 6 gallon compressor as a 30 gallon or larger.

Kosm1o · 11-06-2012, 03:57 AM

If I didn't have a big enough compressor , I wouldn't bother wasting time with the blow out. Just using the pink stuff is effective and easy once you have the right tools and there are many threads if you look for them that explain it. Otherwise , IMHO, you are asking for a lot of trouble.

dznf0g · 11-06-2012, 06:32 AM

True Kos, but OP lives in Texas. You and I live "up nort". I did have a cracked shower faucet in my old SOB during my time living in Michigan. I tried just blowing out the lines that year. Never again. But down south......I might. And that was with a 30 gallon compressor.

perryg114 · 11-06-2012, 07:28 AM

Yes exactly, CFM is probably limited by a number of things that have nothing to do with the compressor. How much is the pressure regulator going to limit flow? You should have a compressor with a tank as opposed to one for blowing up car tires using a cigarette lighter plug. Any 1 HP air compressor will do. Set the regulator from 40-60 psi 40psi if you have an older trailer with patched plumbing. If you don't have a good regulator get a new one. Once you open a valve for more than a few seconds the pressure is going to drop a lot no matter what CFM your compressor has.

Purge wait, purge wait, purge wait these cycles will be shorter with a big compressor but you can get it done. You want to wait long enough for the supply tank pressure to be above the setpoint pressure on the regulator. Don't forget the toilet valve.

We do this kind of stuff here at NASA all the time, IT AIN'T ROCKET SCIENCE.

Perry

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

...and then wait for the compressor to re-pressurize the tank and lines with the faucets all closed...then open the next one...and so on.

Kosm1o · 11-06-2012, 09:50 AM

Just saying for the amount of time involved , using pink stuff will be easier and probably better.

Gene · 11-06-2012, 10:08 AM

It takes me one to one and a half hours to winterize with blowing out the lines and pumping antifreeze through them. If my wife helps, it takes no more than an hour. This is less time than summerizing since that requires draining the antifreeze and sanitizing and then flushing the system 3 times to get all the antifreeze and chlorine solution out of the system. I'd rather winterize any time (except that means the season is over).

Gene

garry · 11-06-2012, 08:09 PM

If you are still confused then buy a small bilge pump that uses a standard hose connection put it in a bucket of pink stuff (RV antifreeze) run the wires to your battery, drain and bypass the hot water heater then just pump the antifreeze through all facets and toilet. Now you are protected to 20 below.

I used to do this but now live in a warmer climate and just blow out the lines and pour the pink stuff in the drains.