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Old 12-11-2012, 04:29 PM   #57
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Thanks for the compliments Jeff.

I got the replacement drain valve at CW and it did fit by luck because I forgot to check the diameter before I bought it. Bring the plastic plug with you to make sure you get the right one for your heater, but it probably is the 1/2" one. Memory is such a hard thing to lose.

I'm a little surprised that Airstream hasn't changed the owner's manual more than 5 years to let people know about the drain below the water heater. Everyone who has had an Airstream for a while knows the manuals don't get changed often enough, but 5+ years?

And I hope you did the things I didn't mention in that last post—like blowing out the kitchen sink sprayer, outside shower and toilet, and then making sure they have antifreeze in them.

It should go faster next year. The part where a helper saves the most time is when pumping the antifreeze through the lines since the hose into the antifreeze container needs to be held in place while someone goes around to the faucets and toilet.

Gene
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Old 12-12-2012, 03:52 PM   #58
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I would appreciate a photo of the boiler cock you used Twinkie just to see how it differs from the one I had tried. It stuck out too far and interfered with the incoming gas line on mine so I went to a smaller valve. It drains slowly but fits nicely. I still would go with the boiler cock if I can find one to fit.
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:45 PM   #59
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Boiler Cock

Here is the photo. Bought it at a place called Menards.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...wman88/030.jpg
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:34 AM   #60
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Here is the photo. Bought it at a place called Menards.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...wman88/030.jpg

There is no way that would work in our water heater. (I wish it would) I would have to do a major replumbing of the gas line and move and/or modify an aluminum heat shield.

I finally decided that ,since I only have to mess with it once or twice a year, I will just take the few minutes it requires for me to remove the plastic plug with an open end wrench. I am also going to get a spare plug in case I mess up the original one.

Ken
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:08 AM   #61
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That's the same thing I had tried. Won't work as stated above. Incoming gas plumbing is different. Our older trailer ( 1985) had one so I guess things have changed as they've gotten newer. OH well, the one I got works. Just a little slow to drain.
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:23 AM   #62
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Not as quick draining as removing the plastic plug, but better than trying to fit a wench in there.

Bob
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:53 AM   #63
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Bob and I have the same style. You just have to watch the metal parts around to make sure you don't tear up some skin.

If the Atwood people would think more about the consequences of what they do, we'd all have an easier time. I suppose they save a few bucks on the plastic drain plug, but they create a lot of bad PR.

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Old 12-13-2012, 12:29 PM   #64
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Bob and I have the same style. You just have to watch the metal parts around to make sure you don't tear up some skin.

If the Atwood people would think more about the consequences of what they do, we'd all have an easier time. I suppose they save a few bucks on the plastic drain plug, but they create a lot of bad PR.

Gene
Bob and Gene and I have the same style.

I guess its just of matter of choice. I don't remember the size, but I believe its 15/16". I have plenty of open end wrenches long enough to keep my hand out of danger.

I also have enough patience to take the turns on the wrench to get the plug out.

Ken
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:41 PM   #65
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For me it's not the patience to get the plug out. I too am in no rush. I found the plastic plug easy to round off on the points and then the wrench slips. That may make it difficult to remove. I thought about putting in a brass plug but I want to be careful not to cross the threads. That would make a very bad day. So I put in the brass drain plug so I don't have to remove it. At least for awhile that is, until it begins to leak.
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