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Old 11-04-2012, 06:02 PM   #15
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If it is working, pressure is pressure, doesn't matter if it's water or air.
I don't believe its that simple, because the air and water are moving and air is compressible and liquid water is not. I tried to search Google for an answer, but couldn't find one. I guess first I have to figure out how the water pressure regulator works.

Ken

EDIT: After reading how the regulator works, I believe you are right. If so that means no matter what pressure (within reason) you put in the city water inlet, you will only get 40 PSI in the lines. So I guess it doesn't matter.
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:22 PM   #16
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Bingo! What weighs more, 100lbs of lead or 100lbs of feathers?
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:32 PM   #17
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Between the built in pressure regulator and the open faucet, you would have a hard time overpressuring the system. You have to open a faucet to blow out the water, so start that way, going from faucet to faucet including the sink sprayer and the toilet.

I have seen 45 lbs. recommended and more. 45 works for me and it just make take a little longer. Camping World sells a connector for the city water and then you need to put a compressor attachment on it. That makes it a lot easier than standing there and holding the compressor hose to the inlet.

The larger the compressor, the longer it will supply compressed air before recycling, but any decent compressor should work. The little guys without tanks and mainly for tires, probably won't work.

First drain the water tanks and the water lines. Fresh water drain in between the tires and there are 2 petcocks for the water lines. A 3rd water line drained is below the water heater with a valve just below the 3 water heater bypass valves. Open the water heater drains—including the overpressure valve near the top—too. Close the water line drains and water heater, and blow out hot and cold lines at the faucets, then open the water line drains one by one, and last, the water heater. You can't get all the water out of the water heater unless you turn the trailer over, but I don't do that. There's plenty of room for expansion. You can run some more water directly into the water heater to flush out rust and silt that collects at the bottom and try to blow out some of it with the air hose.

Also clean out the filter on the water pump. If you can install a water pump bypass, you can feed antifreeze directly into the lines to get to all the faucets. If you have the water heater bypass valves correctly, you will keep antifreeze out of the water heater (it takes 6 or 10 gal.).

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Old 11-05-2012, 12:27 AM   #18
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I have a relatively inexpensive compressor that allows me to regulate output to 60 psi or less. If you follow the owners manual, and you are < or equal to 60 psi you should be fine.

On older rigs, I am not so sure. We traded our Winnebago Rialta for a 2012 International. On the Rialta, I needed to make sure the pressure did not exceed 30 psi.

Important thing is "right tool for the job." When all else fails, read the manual.
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:10 AM   #19
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The regulators fail so unless you have a gage to verify that it is working then assume it if not. I install the compressor with all the valves closed. Then open faucets one as a time till they are clear. Start with the ones that are higher up then the lower ones like the toilet and shower. Then the low point drains if you have them. If you leave a valve open the pressure won't build up enough to give you are a proper purge. Your air compressor can't keep up with an open valve for long and the pressure will drop to a few psi.

If you are uncertain about the condition of your plumbing, I would not go over 40psi.

Perry
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:15 AM   #20
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i wouldn't do it yourself. i would invite all these folks over to do it for you. it might somehow get done but the entertainment value of watching them all try to reach a consensus on the best way to get it done would be second to none! ha ha
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:10 AM   #21
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i wouldn't do it yourself. i would invite all these folks over to do it for you. it might somehow get done but the entertainment value of watching them all try to reach a consensus on the best way to get it done would be second to none! ha ha
Man, you said it all! Sal
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:15 AM   #22
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i wouldn't do it yourself. i would invite all these folks over to do it for you. it might somehow get done but the entertainment value of watching them all try to reach a consensus on the best way to get it done would be second to none! ha ha
Would there be a kegger to help with entertainment?

My Pressure regulator on the AS, (the newer shurflow type) is a 65psi regulator. Spec is molded right on the shell of the regulator. Thus I use 60 psi. and use Perry's method above.
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:26 AM   #23
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We are going in so many directions, it is getting humorous.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim and Tam View Post
"If you follow the owners manual, and you are < or equal to 60 psi you should be fine". .
You have a 2012 trailer. If you are < 60 psi you are doing it wrong. The manual says at least 60 PSI. That means > 60 PSI. According to the manual less than 60 PSI is not fine.

I have had to repair damage from a little bit of water freezing and cracking plastic plumbing. That was in an SOB, where I did not have to dismantle the trailer to reach the plumbing. It was a PITA, I certainly don't want to do it in the Airstream. Therefore "should be fine" is not good enough for me.

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Originally Posted by Tim and Tam View Post
l"Important thing is "right tool for the job." When all else fails, read the manual". .
When all else has failed, it is too late to read the manual.

Maybe we need to take a poll.

A. Have you ever damaged your plumbing with too much air pressure?

B. Have you ever had water remaining in your plumbing, freeze and cause damage?

I'm putting money on B winning in a landslide.

This thread is about a 2012 trailer, so what I am posting pertains to a modern trailer. I am not willing to guess what is appropriate for an older trailer. Conversely, it is not appropriate to assume what is right for an older trailer will be right for a newer one.

Ken
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:38 AM   #24
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That does it

I'm so confused I'm gonna take the 3 gallons of vodka I was going to winterize with and figure something else to do with it. Sal
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:46 AM   #25
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I'm so confused I'm gonna take the 3 gallons of vodka I was going to winterize with and figure something else to do with it. Sal
I expect we won't be hearing from you for a while when you figure it out.

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Old 11-05-2012, 10:38 AM   #26
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it semes like its wurgin reeely goood. Sal
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:54 PM   #27
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Thanks for the replies. One of the replies said to get a good CFM. Any suggestions on what would be good?

I'm considering a Porter Cable 1gal with 0.75 CFM at 90 PSI and a Porter Cable 6 gal with 2.6 CFM at 90PSI
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:14 PM   #28
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You don't need tons of cfm. Pressurize the system till the pressure equalizes then open valves. The plumbing volume and pressure will supply enough flow.
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