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Old 10-04-2012, 06:42 PM   #15
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Water Pump Access

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Originally Posted by SilverRanger View Post
Hi, FredV. Welcome to the forums.

Like Michelle said, you can use your own water pump to accomplish the same thing. That's how I do it, too. I made the adapter to go on the water pump from commonly available parts from a hardware store for less than $5 bucks. By draining and bypassing the water heater, I use less than 2 gallons of anti-freeze. Your Airstream is bigger, so it may take a little more than that.
Not sure if this is the way to respond and/or aska question, but here goes. I up-rooted the closet floor of my 2007 Classic 27FB (new to us) and found the water pump. However, it is located such that the inlet is only about two inches from the wheel well cover - not enough room to install a flush kit attachment. How did you make your adapter? dana
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:51 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by CLDuthie View Post
Not sure if this is the way to respond and/or aska question, but here goes. I up-rooted the closet floor of my 2007 Classic 27FB (new to us) and found the water pump. However, it is located such that the inlet is only about two inches from the wheel well cover - not enough room to install a flush kit attachment. How did you make your adapter? dana
Relocate your pump so you have room to install. It's only 4 screws.
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:55 PM   #17
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I too share the problem of having a water pump that is located in a hard to reach place. I have a 2012 23D Serenity. Its under the closet next to the frig. I open up the access panel and I can barely see the pump. Not sure I can handle this job myself. I will probably take her to the Airstream factory and have them install a three way valve for the future.

In the meantime, I'm leaning toward the hand-pump route. I assume that with the hand-pump you connect the hose to the city water inlet and pump the antifreeze in there? Do these hand pumps work adequately? Any drawbacks besides needing two people to do the job (1 to pump and one to run around inside and open the taps)?
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:08 PM   #18
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Hand pumps do require two people, but it is a very easy, five-minute job. For very cold climates like here, though, I recommend using an air pump to evacuate as much water from the lines as you can beforehand. That actually takes quite a bit more time than the addition of the pink stuff with the hand pump.


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Old 10-22-2012, 05:07 PM   #19
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Thanks Lynn. I do plan to do the full air pressure blowout first!
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:24 PM   #20
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I thought about putting in one of the valves shown above. But my pump is in a really tight spot and I do not want to deal with the installation of the valve or to spill antifreeze in the floor or closet. So I just pour 3 gallons of antifreeze into the water tank and winterize away. Drain the excess back out into a catch pan and pour it into the toilets. Easier than cleaning out the closet each time to lift the floorboard to get to the pump. I do run the pump dry and blow out the lines with the air compressor first, then fill the lines with the pump.
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:34 PM   #21
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Relocate your pump so you have room to install. It's only 4 screws.
And you can attach some short supply lines between the valve and pump so it is even more accessible.
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:55 PM   #22
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Ihave a short peice of plastic hose that I connect to the pump. I disconnect the line from the fresh water tank. I drain everything. Then I start the pump and 6 gallon later every waterline in the trailer is runnin pink. Been doin it that way for 5 years now Never been a problem.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:20 PM   #23
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Open drains and faucets one at a time while air pressure is applied at the city water connection. When that blows dry and the water heater bypass is in place, we hook a short piece of tubing to the third leg of a 3-way valve attached to the inlet side of the AS pump. Total cost was $7-8 for the valve and tubing, $5 for the RV anti freeze. Really in our FC20 - one gallon will do it!
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:10 AM   #24
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Air vs. Pink Stuff

Well, I'm sort of with Roger on this one. I think it depends a bit on how your coach is plumbed. In my case, trial and error was instructive. I started out by first draining everything that would drain via gravity. Then I turned to blowing out all the lines as described, using compressed air. (drained and bypassed the water heater, of course.) Somewhere (RV store?) I got an adapter that goes into the fresh water inlet and which has a Shrader valve on it. Then I attached a clip-on Shrader inflator chuck, pressurized, and blew out everything, catching the water as it came out so I wouldn't have black and gray tanks with a bunch of water in them over winter. So far so good.

But then, sort of on a lark, I built a water-pump-inlet adapter with a short length of hose that would fit a one gallon antifreeze jug. Hooked it up. Turned on the pump and opened valves. I was amazed to find nearly a gallon of nice clear water coming out of the taps before the antifreeze got there. Where was that water hiding?!!?? I now catch that water in a small jug that fits in the sinks, collect it, and pour it out. It takes me nearly two gallons of antifreeze to do all the lines, traps, etc. AFTER I've blown out the lines with air.

So I'm now certain that in my trailer, there are low spots where the water will collect despite blowing out the lines. Your trailer may be different. But for me, belt and suspenders seems necessary, and for the price of two gallons of pink antifreeze and a bit of flushing out in the spring, the "insurance factor" is worth it.

This does leave air-only treatment for everything upstream from the water pump and the cit water line. But this is apparently not where the water "hides."

p.s. after blowing out the lines, it takes me less than ten minutes to run the antifreeze through all the piping. Not a big deal, at least to me.
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:26 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CLDuthie View Post
Not sure if this is the way to respond and/or aska question, but here goes. I up-rooted the closet floor of my 2007 Classic 27FB (new to us) and found the water pump. However, it is located such that the inlet is only about two inches from the wheel well cover - not enough room to install a flush kit attachment. How did you make your adapter? dana
My Classic is the same way where the pump is up against a wheel well which negates being able to put a flush valve on it without relocating the pump. Someday I will do that. At this point I have bought a long clear plastic hose and I unscrew the fresh water tank supply hose which screws into the small water filter that is part of the pump. I then screw on the hose, place the other end of the hose into the anti-freeze jug, turn on the pump and off we go.

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Old 10-23-2012, 09:56 AM   #26
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I do have a compressor with variable pressure...I like the idea of not having to buy anti freeze every year...
Fred, you will still have to buy antifreeze each year. It is important to fill all the traps when you are finished blowing the lines. You should also add some to the black tank to help prevent damage/freezing to the valves in both the black and gray tanks. I use just under two gallons each time.

You have received some great advice on this. By far the best way is to blow all the lines and then pump in the pink stuff. I live in Eastern Washington with a climate not much different from Montana. I blow my lines and that is it. So far it has worked well for me but I am very particular as to how it is done.

One of my future projects is to replace the pump with the quietest one I can find. At that point I will relocate the pump and add the bypass valve. I am planning on making this trailer son-in-law proof, which is a huge challenge in and of itself.

Welcome to the forum.

Dick
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:57 AM   #27
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Wait, I always did the hand pump method by myself. (Okay, out of context, that sentence sounds bad.) I must have just stopped pumping, opened the sink valve, then resumed pumping. It helps to have something the right height to set the bottle on when you have to go in the camper.
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:27 AM   #28
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Doesn't anybody drain the antifreeze out back into the container for reuse after pumping it through the plumbing? That way I use less than 2 quarts every time.
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