Pump in RV Antifreeze Downstream from the Water Pump?

[KJRitchie]

I usually blow out all my water lines with my compressor but since I've moved to a colder region of the country I'd like to be able to add RV antifreeze to the lines next winter.

My water pump in in the worse place to try to add a winterizing valve up stream (between water tank and pump). The PEX comes up through the floor from the water tank to the filter and then to a 90 deg fitting that connects to the Aquajet. The connection to the pump is a fitting that is secured to a quick release on the water pump housing. I was thinking of getting another fitting with a piece of hose and have the AS water pump suck the antifreeze though the system but I'm afraid of disturbing this connection too much causing a leak eventually. The PEX is very inaccessible and I don't have any special tools to work with PEX to cut and splice in a diverter valve. I don't think there is enough space to splice in a valve.

On the output side of the pump is a flexible and very accessible hose that forms a loop to lessen water pump noise. I could easily splice in a diverter valve on this hose. I could then get another pump and plug it into my TV's 12v socket and use that pump to fill the lines with antifreeze. The antifreeze will be blocked from entering the water tank and AS water pump by the check valve.

Is this feasible?

Kelvin

[ROBERT CROSS]

YEP....could even use a hand pump.

Bob

[Bill M.]

You can also just add the antifreeze through the fresh water tank and use the trailer pump to push it though the lines. Takes about 2 gallons total if you have the water heater bypass. I actually bought one of the winterizing add on kits and then just tossed it when I thought about trying to add antifreeze under the floor of the closet in the hall when I could just pour it into the tank outside. I also have a little aluminum pressure paint tank from Harbor Freight dedicated to RV antifreeze and I introduce antifreeze through the water intake at the same time I have the air hose hooked up to blow out the lines. By using both methods I get antifreeze in the lines behind both check valves.

[KJRitchie]

When I was winterizing for this winter with compressed air after draining the water tank, heater, low points etc I noticed the filter didn't have any water in it. I think because the input water line to the pump is on a downward slope to the water tank it drains out naturally.

So maybe its just best to get about 5 gallons of antifreeze to be on the safe side, adding a couple of gallons at first and more if needed and put into the freshwater tank and pump it through the system.

I guess I would need to remove the Moen PUR water filter first, replace the housing and run the antifreeze through the filtered water faucet, then remove the housing and retrieve the antifreeze.

The only thing I forgot to blow compressed air through was the black tank flush. When I first purchased my AS the black tank flushed leaked because of a broken check valve but I replaced that with an elbow fitting. I'm guessing the black tank nozzle in the tank will be OK. It survived last winter OK and I didn't blow it out.

Kelvin

[mefly2]

Yes, I've done that exact process ...

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Bill M.

You can also just add the antifreeze through the fresh water tank and use the trailer pump to push it though the lines. Takes about 2 gallons total if you have the water heater bypass. I actually bought one of the winterizing add on kits and then just tossed it when I thought about trying to add antifreeze under the floor of the closet in the hall when I could just pour it into the tank outside. I also have a little aluminum pressure paint tank from Harbor Freight dedicated to RV antifreeze and I introduce antifreeze through the water intake at the same time I have the air hose hooked up to blow out the lines. By using both methods I get antifreeze in the lines behind both check valves.

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

When I was winterizing for this winter with compressed air after draining the water tank, heater, low points etc I noticed the filter didn't have any water in it. I think because the input water line to the pump is on a downward slope to the water tank it drains out naturally.

So maybe its just best to get about 5 gallons of antifreeze to be on the safe side, adding a couple of gallons at first and more if needed and put into the freshwater tank and pump it through the system.

I guess I would need to remove the Moen PUR water filter first, replace the housing and run the antifreeze through the filtered water faucet, then remove the housing and retrieve the antifreeze.

The only thing I forgot to blow compressed air through was the black tank flush. When I first purchased my AS the black tank flushed leaked because of a broken check valve but I replaced that with an elbow fitting. I'm guessing the black tank nozzle in the tank will be OK. It survived last winter OK and I didn't blow it out.

Kelvin

Darn closet access ....I also pump thru the FW tank, three gal does for me as I raise the street-side slightly to get that last gal or so of water out of the tank. Removed the faucet filter permanently.
Just requires a bit more flushing come Spring get-ready, no big deal as we bring water for Joe & drinking.

Bob

[EarlM]

I built a winterized a 15 gallon plastic tank and. 110 volt deman pump and connect it to the city water inlet turn it on and go around and open all spigot to they get pink by pass water heater first

Don't forget shower and toilet and outside shower if you have

P/s if you have a built in water filter remove the filter befor winterizing

Quick and easy

Drain all the tanks and put a gallon of antifreeze in all tanks

100 % winterized

Have fun

earl