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Old 02-20-2016, 12:57 PM   #1
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Pole Barn RV Garage?

Anyone have a strong opinion (pro or con) about the durability of a pole style RV garage? It would be wood frame with metal roof/siding supported off treated lumber embedded into the ground (concreted). Attached is a description from one of the vendors:

http://www.hansenpolebuildings.com/p...s/foundations/

Looking to build this spring in Burrville, UT (mountain valley area) where we have decent bearing soils with lots of basalt cobbles. Pole style seems like a decent option. Likely similar to this:
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Old 02-20-2016, 01:36 PM   #2
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I like your proposed garage layout. We had a very similar layout quoted a few years ago and hope to build it in our backyard someday.

For our situation a metal frame structure was readily available and reasonably cost effective. Our local code requires a concrete floor. Our total cost was estimated at just over $20k. Approximately 1/2 of the cost was for concrete and grading work, the other half for the metal building. The contractor was going to install the conduit and drains in the concrete so I can finish out water, electric and sewer at a later date. Our estimate does not include insulation and we planned to keep the number of windows to a minimum.

There are several threads on the subject. Take some time to do some searching and you may find some useful information.

For reference, here's a copy of our plan. There is a tree in the back right corner that we want to save so we shortened the side of the garage for the tow vehicle.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf garage_renderings.pdf (1.69 MB, 303 views)
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Old 02-20-2016, 01:41 PM   #3
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There should be no prob. w/this style of building as they are used in commercial and farmers have them in huge sizes for farm equip and some have many million dollars equip. Some combines and tractors cost $500,000 or more plus semis etc. Trucking co. have them also. If you insulate and heat you will not have to winterize as I have been doing this way since 1991 with out any prob. & it gets cold in No. Illinois but I have genny if lose power so can run furnace. all I do is drain holding tanks empty fresh water that's it
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Old 02-20-2016, 01:56 PM   #4
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Thanks to both of you for the posts and info. sharing. I'll have to dig deeper into some of the existing threads and older posts. I tried a search before my post, but didn't seem to have much luck yielding applicable results (maybe my expectations are tainted by Google.)

Luckily, permit fees and local codes concerns are modest, mostly just concern with an engineered design, snow loads (60 psf) and frost depth. Not sure about building it initially with a concrete floor due to budget constraints - would be nice to have.

Regards - Ron
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Old 02-20-2016, 02:07 PM   #5
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If you have morton buildings you area they stand behind there buildings except they are a tad bit more expensive. I built my own conventional style w/2x6 walls 24 inch on center trussed roof, poured footings, cement floor for less $ than pole builders quoted.
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Old 02-20-2016, 03:25 PM   #6
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Thanks, featherbedder - I had not considered Morton. In looking at their website, it looks like the closest sales office is in Montrose, CO with a production facility in KS. They did list a Utah contractors license number, so they likely have ventured this far west. We have some good local suppliers, but Morton looks like a big, seasoned supplier to consider.

Regards - Ron
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Old 02-20-2016, 03:46 PM   #7
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I had a pole barn where I kept the trailer for 15 years. Then we moved. I really miss having that space. I had a tight approach in order to back the trailer into place. If you have the space, best case is a pole barn with doors front and rear, allowing driving in from the rear and exiting from the front. If that's not an option, allow plenty of gravel/paved depth in front of the door to make backing in easy (I didn't and couldn't change the dimensions). Also a plus is having rack shelving opposite and close to the trailer door. It made loading and unloading supplies for a trip quick and easy.
Definitely plan for 110 VAC and fresh water to be available at the site.
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Old 02-20-2016, 03:49 PM   #8
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My dream home is 500 sqft with a 1000sqf rustic pole barn sitting beside a slow moving creek in Westen North Carolina. Have the spot all picked out.
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Old 02-20-2016, 03:57 PM   #9
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Thanks, Mark - great suggestions. Yes, I do have room for a pull-through configuration and that is the plan for sure (much more convenient). We already have water and power available nearby, as this will be located on the property of our family ranch house.

Regards - Ron
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Old 02-20-2016, 03:58 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWCHIEF View Post
My dream home is 500 sqft with a 1000sqf rustic pole barn sitting beside a slow moving creek in Westen North Carolina. Have the spot all picked out.

Sounds nice!
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Old 02-21-2016, 12:52 AM   #11
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I built a pole barn to store hay and after selling the livestock, converted it to store my MH and a couple of cars. Also have a pull through open at both ends for the AS and car trailer.
My only suggestion is to make sure that it is high enough inside to do roof work without having to crawl to avoid bumping your head. Also proper lighting is a must for working on the trailer.
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Old 02-21-2016, 06:01 AM   #12
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I had a pole building put up last year for my tow vehicle and Caravel. It the best thing I could have done. No worries now.
Not sure if you have Amish near you but that is who I bought my steel from . They form it and and paint it. It cost about a third less than any where else I priced. No middle man.
It is the same gage steel and they use the same coating as the big guys. Same warranty too.
Good luck with the project, you won't regret it.
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Old 02-21-2016, 08:07 AM   #13
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Thanks for the additional comments. Preliminary dimensions are for a 16' eave height, so there should be some interior clearance above the AS. Looking to have full length translucent panels up high for natural light, but will likely have to pull the unit out for good lighting (not planning to wire for lights or outlets). I'm not aware of Amish folks out this way, but you never know who might be a good supplier (still researching.)

Regards - Ron
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Old 02-21-2016, 09:47 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Utah Man View Post
Luckily, permit fees and local codes concerns are modest, mostly just concern with an engineered design, snow loads (60 psf) and frost depth. Not sure about building it initially with a concrete floor due to budget constraints - would be nice to have.
You don't necessarily need a concrete floor unless local building codes require it (which is unlikely outside of city limits). However, whether use use timber poles or a pre-engineered metal frame, some kind of concrete footing is essential. It might just be concrete piers under each upright, but you need to keep the frame out of direct contact with the soil.

Also, it's not just snow loads, don't forget wind loads. Refer to ASCE 7 "Minimum Design Loads for Buildings and Other Structures" 2010 edition. The book ain't cheap at $165 a copy, but your local public library should have a copy. Or if you do a Google search for "ASCE/SEI 7-10 PDF", you may just find an illegal downloadable PDF copy online for free, on an FTP site maintained by a government agency of the State of California who should know better than to violate copyright that way. But of course I can't tell you which agency or give you a direct linků

Allow for a minimum of 4 feet of clearance on all sides of your trailer for maintenance access. Imagine yourself trying to change a flat tire before pulling out, and give yourself enough room to do that.
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