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Old 06-15-2011, 01:46 PM   #1
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Question Paving and Urban Storage Considerations

Someday, perhaps very soon, I WILL have my dream stream. I want to park and perhaps dock it in the driveway in my small upstate New York city. Fortunately, I see that other neighbors have parked boats and TT in driveways and that doesnít seem to be against any enforced local ordinances.

Iím looking at 25 footer AS, which may be the longest I could maneuver into this urban street with cars parked on both sidesówith no experience pulling a trailer getting in and out will be a challenge, but one Iím prepared to meet.

First, though, itís time to get the badly deteriorated asphalt driveway rebuilt. How much wider than the AS should the paved area be (at minimum)? The driveway pad area where the TT will be parked should (at minimum) be able to withstand the loaded GVWR of the AS. Yes? For a 25, rated at 7300, would 10K pounds be ample?

I figure the width should be, at minimum, 3 feet wider than the AS width, yes? Iíd like to go wider, but $ will impact that. Whatís the narrowest I could reasonably go? What are the pitfalls of going too narrow? If Iím going to build a carport later what are the considerations about driveway and pad width? What about the awning deployment and ďporchĒ area do I need to take into account if I want to set up in the driveway for occasional guests, urban ďcampingĒ etc?

Iíd like to eventually build a pergola/carport to protect from the elements, though I may opt to pay to store inside in the snowy winter months. I may do a stealth pvc pipe run with power to the (very small) garage for access to shore power and a water faucet is close by. But the notion of hooking up the black water is daunting and I donít have a plan for that. Iíd love to hear your comments, experience, suggestions, warnings, and encouragement about that as well.

The asphalt contractor is coming by to give an estimate this weekend so Iíd especially appreciate your comments on the pad width/lb capacity before Saturday the 18th. Of course, the quote is going to play a large part in determining how this gets done, but for this urban streamer it will be cheaper in the long run than paying for storage all year!

With thanks for your patience with this noobie and apologies if this topic is covered in other threads,
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Old 06-15-2011, 02:20 PM   #2
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A lot of what you are asking will be influenced by your local building bylaws. Particularly with respect to pergola/carport/garage. I would visit the building department at city hall and find out what the limitations are on what can be built. They will tell you where the garage/pergola can be built and how large. There are factors like setbacks and lot coverage that need to be considered and if you're not familiar with these things, a simple visit to the building desk will get you pointed in the right direction.
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Old 06-15-2011, 02:33 PM   #3
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Wheel track is narrower than overall width. Even with only moderate skill you should be able to place the trailer within, say, 12" of where you want it. So the pad doesn't really need to be more than a few inches wider than the overall trailer width except where it meets the street and at turns. 3' is an outright luxury.

Consider concrete rather than asphalt for the parking pad itself as asphalt will deform from cold flow where the wheels and tongue jack are placed. Asphalt is fine for the driveway portion but it may be cheaper to use concrete for the whole thing depending on the length.

Be sure the pad is level or at least level enough that you can leave the trailer level by using the tongue jack.

Having some type of shore power available even just a 15a outlet helps a great deal as it allows you to run the fridge when the unit is parked, so you can leave condiments, ice, frozen food, and other somewhat less perishable items in there between trips. If you're paying to have a new outlet run you might find it worthwhile to get a standard 30a outlet put in.

Water isn't important unless you plan on using the trailer as a guest house when parked, or have an unusual use pattern where there isn't access to water or dump stations wherever you go camping (rare).

If you do plan to use the trailer as a guest house it may be helpful to have some sort of drain connection nearby so you can use the shower even if it isn't really quite a full sized, code compliant drain.
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Old 06-15-2011, 03:32 PM   #4
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As Jammer said concrete would be the better option, the paving company that did our pad extension last year did not even want to give an estimate for asphalt. Gets very hot/soft in the sun and trailer tires could eventually cause damage. Whatever you decide on, it has to be strong enough to support the Stream.
Our trailer weight is about 7000lb as it sits, 25' Classic. Your contractor can give you the specs. I know ours is 4inch's thick with re-bars. Don't recall the pressure specs.

Our extension is 10' wide by 30' long, pavers add 4' on the curbside to keep the muck out.

I would have liked to have gone a bit wider on the street side to make service a little easier, but no way.
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Old 06-15-2011, 05:58 PM   #5
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Good news and bad news

Love the forums!! Fast answers, giving me a lot to chew on.

Good point about checking with the City Building Dept; there's info on line but actual requirements are unclear. I'm pretty sure I can replace the asphalt with concrete without a variance. The contractor may have opinions about options for a future carport or pergola but I want to do my homework. The existing garage is beyond the current setback requirements but the pad is too small and besides I like my tool shed.

The driveway is almost 70 feet long to the sidewalk. So the good news is I won't have to go so wide ; the bad news is $ for concrete, probably the whole way. Well, it will hold up better in the long run, that's for sure. Had forgotten about drainage. Will maybe have to factor that in next to the house.

I've experienced the melting and sinking in the asphalt just from regular use with cars--and have let it go for too long already. Pavers at the edges and leading to the back door would add a nice look and surface and I can do that.

I'm already thinking about buying toys for my AS and I haven't even got one yet!

Thanks again, please keep the tips coming.
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Old 06-15-2011, 07:12 PM   #6
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The pad we put in for our 30 foot moho is NOW 12 feet by 34 feet. Last summer we contracted for a 12 by 25 pad. At the time we were trying to keep costs down, and went with the wheel base length rather than the actual length. This spring we added pavers to extend the pad for ease of loading the trunk. We can now walk around all 4 sides. Makes loading the trunk areas much easier. (also helps keep things cleaner) If you have the option, go a little bigger than you think you need. The cement contractor also used a fiber-glass thread to reinforce the cement. (4" thick) We added the 30amp line at the time we did the pad...might as well every thing was dug up already.
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Old 06-16-2011, 08:23 PM   #7
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Sounds great! I'd love to see pics if you have 'em.
right now am leaning toward 35 foot pad 10' wide, will install pavers on edge later. Haha we'll see what I say after the estimate!
Thanks for the advice and info--I'll keep you posted.
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Old 06-17-2011, 10:56 AM   #8
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Here are a few pictures taken before & during the paver addition. The first one shows the mh with it's back end off the pad. Then we "framed" the extension with pavers & filled in with some left over bricks. The 30amp electric box is visable on the side of the shed. (so much nicer than running a cord across the driveway) Good luck with your project.
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Old 06-17-2011, 12:24 PM   #9
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I used "trailer blocks" (16" X 16" X 4" @ 64# each) from Home Depot to build a pad between two wings of my home that is just 10 feet wide. If you get REALLY good at backing up you can "slip" your AS into just about any space.

You can see my parking slot here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...s-68808-2.html , page #2, bottom photo set.
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Old 06-17-2011, 05:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dowpells View Post
Here are a few pictures taken before & during the paver addition. The first one shows the mh with it's back end off the pad. Then we "framed" the extension with pavers & filled in with some left over bricks. The 30amp electric box is visable on the side of the shed. (so much nicer than running a cord across the driveway) Good luck with your project.
Looks terrific! Love the outlet--discreet and handy. I like the way the pavers look--maybe I could do something like that on each side to extend and keep the inside cleaner, as others have mentioned. Would make loading easier, too.
Thanks for the pics!
Kathy
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Old 06-17-2011, 05:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by withidl View Post
I used "trailer blocks" (16" X 16" X 4" @ 64# each) from Home Depot to build a pad between two wings of my home that is just 10 feet wide. If you get REALLY good at backing up you can "slip" your AS into just about any space.

You can see my parking slot here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...s-68808-2.html , page #2, bottom photo set.
Wow. I read the whole thread as I've been scheming already about generators for later. Andy did a beautiful job with that Onan 4000. Love love love the pics of the exhaust and maintenance access. The parking slot pics are amazing!

Trailer blocks, eh? How did you prep the surface they are placed on? Well, after I get the estimate I'll probably be looking at alternatives...!!

Getting into my driveway might not be as bad as I'd thought, once I get the hang of it. LOL but I doubt I'd ever have the nerve to back the AS right next to a pool! you must have nerves of steel. and patience. Thanks for sharing the thread and pics. Inspiring!
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Old 06-17-2011, 07:45 PM   #12
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LOL at Kathy's comments about parking next to the pool. I had the same reaction when I read withidl's post. I give parking/backing-up signals while my hubby does the driving. I probably look like i'm waving...left, left, no right, no left. We aren't skilled enough to "slip" backwards into a parking spot...let alone by a pool! Guess we need more practice.
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Old 06-18-2011, 09:51 AM   #13
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How do you get to Carnegie Hall?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dowpells View Post
LOL at Kathy's comments about parking next to the pool. I had the same reaction when I read withidl's post. I give parking/backing-up signals while my hubby does the driving. I probably look like i'm waving...left, left, no right, no left. We aren't skilled enough to "slip" backwards into a parking spot...let alone by a pool! Guess we need more practice.
So I'm not the only one who quails at the thought of navigating obstacles!?!

I have a CDL learner's permit and got to parallel park the bucket truck on Friday for the first time. I think I gave my co-worker a few gray hairs.....
But after the third time I was much better at it!
How do you get to Carnegie Hall?? Practice, practice, practice...
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Old 06-18-2011, 01:58 PM   #14
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Wow. I read the whole thread as I've been scheming already about generators for later. Andy did a beautiful job with that Onan 4000. Love love love the pics of the exhaust and maintenance access. The parking slot pics are amazing!

Trailer blocks, eh? How did you prep the surface they are placed on? Well, after I get the estimate I'll probably be looking at alternatives...!!

Getting into my driveway might not be as bad as I'd thought, once I get the hang of it. LOL but I doubt I'd ever have the nerve to back the AS right next to a pool! you must have nerves of steel. and patience. Thanks for sharing the thread and pics. Inspiring!
Concerning the parking, I rationalize that the time spent backing in is more than made up for by not having the inconvenience of paying for and going to off-site storage, along with less theft risk. Additionally, the genset is on-site as emergency power.

The trailer blocks are laid in just as pave stones would be, i.e. level the ground (sand helps) and lay them down. That being said, my pad is not quite that simple as I laid the blocks two deep (total 8") where the wheels track / stand offsetting them by centering the top one over the 4 corners of the bottom ones to spread out stress. I used the blocks to allow for removal if I ever sell the house. Total cost (my labor doesn't count) was about $500.

On backing next to the pool, I do get out often to check pool proximity, and usually back it in by myself (without a "spotter").
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