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Old 05-18-2009, 10:36 PM   #1
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Parking on driveway incline?

I'm about to buy my first trailer.
The only place I have to park it is in my back driveway.
Any harm in backing in and parking "hitch-down" on inclined
driveway?
I could probably crank up at least close to level with blocks
under the hitch wheel.
What about wheel chocks? Any better than others?
Any info would be appreciated.
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Old 05-18-2009, 10:44 PM   #2
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That must be a steep driveway. If the trailer has dual axles, I would suggest getting the chocks that go between the wheels and locks them in place. I have a set of these which I use on hills.

You are going to want the trailer level if you intend to work inside of it, or to use the refrigerator.
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Old 05-18-2009, 11:20 PM   #3
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Just a thought, but it might be better for the axles if there was even weight on them while parked. However you might need a ropes course when walking around inside..


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Old 05-18-2009, 11:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bellcr8v View Post
I'm about to buy my first trailer.
The only place I have to park it is in my back driveway.
Any harm in backing in and parking "hitch-down" on inclined
driveway?
I could probably crank up at least close to level with blocks
under the hitch wheel.
What about wheel chocks? Any better than others?
Any info would be appreciated.

Bell,

That is the way I park my Safari. There is about a 18" drop in our driveway. I use chocks in front of all four wheels and rest the tongue on wood blocks. I only level when I need to start up the refrigerator before a trip. I noticed that in order to level the trailer the rear tires receive a much larger load than the front tires. I don't think that it is a good idea to keep the trailer like that for a long period. Keeping the trailer level to the driveway keeps the load even on all four wheels.

Bill
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Old 05-19-2009, 01:19 AM   #5
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My first Airstream was a 21' Sovereign with twin axles, and I parked it on a fairly steep slope drive next to the house - paved with asphalt. I bought a couple of concrete parking bumpers (like you see in parking lots everywhere) and eased the tires up to those, then used the 'between the tires' chocks (as in the post above this one) as an extra safety measure.

To let the trailer be level, I cut an opening in the asphalt where the tongue jack rested, and dug it down 6 or 8" and put some bricks in the bottom of the hole - then I could lower the tongue until it almost touched the drive surface, and the trailer was level. Worked really good, and when the kids wanted to camp out the trailer was level and ready to go.

Parked that way for a bunch of years and never had trouble with axles, etc, from parking on a slope.
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:40 AM   #6
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Not that steep and not dual axle

My drive is not that steep and the trailer is not dual axle.
Being a complete novice in this trailer business, I just wondered if
there were complications I was not aware of.
(like so many other aspects of this process)

Chocks? Does a brick work just as well as a $20 chock?
I guess I just want to be sure it doesn't move.
As far as leveling, I don't know if it's necessary if I'm not using any appliances in the drive while it's parked.

Thanks for your advice.
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Old 05-19-2009, 09:51 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bellcr8v View Post
I'm about to buy my first trailer.
The only place I have to park it is in my back driveway.
Any harm in backing in and parking "hitch-down" on inclined
driveway?
I could probably crank up at least close to level with blocks
under the hitch wheel.
What about wheel chocks? Any better than others?
Any info would be appreciated.
Level. chock all wheel with real chocks. Not rocks or logs.
The trailer will thank you.
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Old 05-19-2009, 12:30 PM   #8
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Not that steep and not dual axle
My drive is not that steep and the trailer is not dual axle.



I guess we should have started with clarification... glad you got it worked out..

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Old 05-19-2009, 01:55 PM   #9
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I would attempt to keep the trailer level. That lets the rain drain off in a more natural flow. I think this really is important in the freezing weather since water will expand as it freezes. Water that would be collected against areas with sealer could be penetrated over time due to the freeze thaw process.

Unfortunately bricks and rocks used as wheel chocks don't always make good contact with the ground and with the tire itself. As noted by someone earlier, using those wheel locks along with chocks will give you a better level of confidence. Note also if you attempt to work inside the trailer when parked, the chance of the trailer creeping down the drive are greatly reduced.

While I'm lucky to store in a level area, I use wheel chocks and a wheel lock to make sure we go nowhere when parked in a camp site.

Jack
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Old 05-19-2009, 02:20 PM   #10
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Chock Choice

Don't buy those cheapy cheap things they sell at WalMart - Stand on top of one,and watch it flatten! They might stop a motorcycle or golf cart, but I saw an absent minded camper pull out leaving his little wimpy yellow ones in place... didn't even feel the resistance.

Better to cut wood ones or buy the ones that work with one of the two brands of oversized Lego-like leveling blocks.
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Old 05-21-2009, 01:10 PM   #11
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If you make your own chocks cut them to a wedge shape or bevel the edge. A square block can roll or slip.
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Old 01-18-2011, 06:03 PM   #12
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So what does a person do on a driveway such as this?
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Old 01-18-2011, 06:15 PM   #13
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Quote:
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so what does a person do on a driveway such as this?

move
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:48 PM   #14
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Sell the house are start full timing.
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