Once and for all--need to blow out City Inlet and Black Flush?

[pcskier]

I've emailed Airstream and waiting on a reply. I've heard conflicting thoughts on this....but also understand that it *could* depend on the year of the trailer perhaps.

Mine is a 2014 FC 23FB.

This year I winterized by draining tanks, low points, etc, and then pumped antifreeze through all lines and fixtures via the water pump using a bypass to avoid putting antifreeze in the fresh tank.

Question: Does the city water inlet pressure reduction valve, and the anti-siphon valve on the black flush, need to be blown out, or would any residual water have drained out?

If it's an issue, would using a funnel and some antifreeze put into both inlets provide a margin of safety? It's snowing all week and getting her out of storage and back home to blow out is not really an option.

Has anybody had problems with either item experiencing freeze damage? I'm in enclosed storage but non heated and it's going to be single digits this week in the mountains of Northern Utah.

Thanks.

[KJRitchie]

Not sure if you blow out the water first then add antifreeze that would insure any water is out of the pressure regulator. The black tank flush should be blown out to get rid of water in the antisiphon valve since its not part of the water system. I've just used compressed air to winterize my Airstream since purchasing in 2013 and so far so good.

Kelvin

[PKI]

If I understand correctly, you gravity drained the water and pumped the AF with the fresh water system. My guess is that you ran the AF through the faucets and have done a decent job. However, the black flush would not have seen AF, and may have residual water if the circuit has a back-flow device. The pressure regulator may well have some trapped water. Yes, Pour some into both ports. Probably a good idea to flow some air pressure through the city water port. The alternative would be to pull the pressure regulator and add a flexible section of tube when you replace it and de-winterize the coach. Additionally, how did you drain the fresh water tank? Are you sure it is dry? Did you add AF to the grey water tank, p-traps and the black water tank? Easy to pour some down each drain. Do it.

Good luck with your plan. Pat

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by PKI

If I understand correctly, you gravity drained the water and pumped the AF with the fresh water system. My guess is that you ran the AF through the faucets and have done a decent job. However, the black flush would not have seen AF, and may have residual water if the circuit has a back-flow device. The pressure regulator may well have some trapped water. Yes, Pour some into both ports. Probably a good idea to flow some air pressure through the city water port. The alternative would be to pull the pressure regulator and add a flexible section of tube when you replace it and de-winterize the coach. Additionally, how did you drain the fresh water tank? Are you sure it is dry? Did you add AF to the grey water tank, p-traps and the black water tank? Easy to pour some down each drain. Do it.

Good luck with your plan. Pat

Thanks Pat. Yes I'm confident that the fresh tank is empy and all lines are filled with antifreeze, I even re-oponed the low point drains while running AF through to make sure there wasn't even any water in those drain valves. There is some antifreeze in grey and black tanks.

I can't really get compressed air to the trailer right now. Good idea on removing the pressure regulator, I can go over to storage. To possibly save me some poking around, where would I find it on the 23 FB? I'm guessing somewhere behind the galley cabinetry?

Black flush I will pour some antifreeze, hopefully that will help. Unless I can figure out a way to get some compresses air to it.

Thanks again.

[PKI]

I think you can just pour the AF in the flush port. Bet gravity will do it for you. Pour-wait 15 minutes and pour a bit more.

The regulator is the chrome piece behind the city water port or rather, it is the port. I think you can just pour into it as well and let gravity help. If not, the screws on the outside should release it. I just don't know how to access the water line connected to it. If pulling it out does not give you access, look for access inside - toilet, maybe? The deal on the tube replacement is that the back of the regulator is plastic. It needs a section of tube that provides strain relief so it does not crack and start leaking. Consequently, a bit of care is appropriate here.

Wonder if you could use a water bottle to pour in the AF and provide a bit of pressure by squeezing the bottle. Some electrical tape would build up the bottle mouth to make a seal if you pressed it against the port. That would get you out of needing air.

God luck. Pat

[CRH]

Camco makes a hand pump that only costs a few bucks.

[FishByFly]

I picked up a siphon hand pump at Home Depot. I believe it was about $10. One hose direct into the gallon antifreeze. The other I put a hose connection to screw into both city and black water flush. Just pumped some in so it cleared those valves.


FishByFly
because I catch fish on a fly...

2017 25' FB Flying Cloud Queen
2010 F250 Lariat
Past: 2005 30' Safari Bunkhouse
Past: 1986 28' Excella Twin

Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[Caffeinated]

I just wanted to add in my experience Airstream does not answer emails, but if you call them, you can get a human who will address your question.

Mike

[Cyclist]

Originally Posted by CRH

Camco makes a hand pump that only costs a few bucks.

I'll second this although I don't recall if mine was made by Camco. The hand pump comes with a short hose that attaches to the threaded fitting on the city and black water flush access ports. A short plastic tube fits into a jug of anti-freeze. This system worked quite well.

[Len n Jeanne]

In Park City? At your elevation, I would recommend blowing out your pipes. Folks who do it routinely either use their own air compressor or else take their AS to an RV service center for full winterizing. You could probably also get a mobile RV mechanic (from SLC?) to come to your site. They charge for house calls on top of the basic servicing cost, but if the trade-off is damaging your pipes, the extra cost is worth it.

Or is there no way to get an air compressor to your storage site?

We generally wind up with anti-freeze in our fresh water tanks, so when we de-winterize we run the water through for a while, and drink bottled water till nothing looks pink or fizzy anymore.

We've had good email feedback from AS on this 'n' that, but it may take them a few days.

[m.hony]

I would use air pressure to blow any water out of the black tank flush valve.
Is the city water pressure reduction valve the valve next to the city water inlet? If this is the valve you are referring to I blow it out with air and run pink antifreeze through it.
I always thought that valve on my Classic was for an out door shower or to wash feet or to attach a hose for whatever reason. I guess it could be for those reasons as well as pressure relief?

[jcwall]

I have exactly the same trailer and have winterized it several times. I have never poured antifreeze in the black water flush. I open all of the valves at my last stop before headed home including the plug on the hot water heater. At home I attach my air compressor and blow everything out fixture by fixture. Just to be safe I attach a hose I made up to the inlet on the pump and pump antifreeze through all of the fixtures. I know some goes down the drain but I pour an ample amount down the drain. Of course you should by pass the hot water heater.

[m.hony]

Never have put antifreeze in black tank flush, but used compressed air to blow out any water that might be in the valve.

[nipperguy]

We use a hand siphon pump to push AF through black tank flush. You can find them for a couple bucks at Lowes near kerosene heaters. Photo attached.

[polarlyse]

I blow my black tank flush with compressed air but recently I was speaking with an Airstreaming friend and mentioned that. He said he's never even thought about doing that in his winterization plan. I think I got his gears turning for the next time. So in the end, I do it because it's easy and makes me feel better. He's never done it and has never had a problem. So maybe you should but then again maybe you don't need to.

[m.hony]

I have had the black tank valve freeze and break...
Compressed air is sufficient to save it.
I don't guess it would hurt to put pink antifreeze in there, but I don't see a way to get the antifreeze in there.
I get antifreeze into the faucets, toilet, outdoor shower, and low point drains with the pump.
This is also getting antifreeze into the P-traps and gray tank and blank tank drain valves.

[slowmover]

I've always liked the suggestion about the fresh water plumbing from a truly ancient thread on this site. A case of cheap vodka. No problem to clear those lines come spring.


1990 35' Silver Streak
2004 555 Cummins

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by slowmover

I've always liked the suggestion about the fresh water plumbing from a truly ancient thread on this site. A case of cheap vodka. No problem to clear those lines come spring.


1990 35' Silver Streak
2004 555 Cummins

Is there a source of cheap vodka in the same price range as RV antifreeze ($2.50/gallon)? If there is, my local store doesn't carry it....

[slowmover]

He didn't say . . . but you have to admit it's attractive in a guy sort of way (fun to imagine ones wife telling another wife the story . . as you're mixing drinks a ways off). Maybe that and drinking water taste is the price difference "bridge".

And you to the other husband: "Hey, my trailers special, isn't yours?


1990 35' Silver Streak
2004 555 Cummins

[SteveSueMac]

You have an interesting story telling gene!

Naturally I had to search this out on Google - there's a "Popov" 1.75L for $16 - about 7X more expensive than RV AF. I'm guessing you're looking at about $40 worth of "cheap" vodka to pull that off. It's an intriguing idea - just not sure I'd spring for it.

If anyone has done this, hopefully they'll share their story!