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Old 01-22-2014, 03:29 PM   #1
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Noise and winterizing

Hi there…I am the Virgin Bambi camper. The plastic cover on my new 2013, 16 foot Bambi propane tanks makes noise in the wind. Any ideas on how to make this more quiet? The large wings nuts are tight and the top viewing cover is tight.
Second question: Is there a detailed step by step winterizing guide available.
It makes me nervous that I might miss something and I do not want to pay $150.00 to have it winterized, plus I like to try to do these things myself.
Any other tips a rookie needs to know?
Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-22-2014, 04:20 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Happy View Post
Hi there…I am the Virgin Bambi camper. The plastic cover on my new 2013, 16 foot Bambi propane tanks makes noise in the wind. Any ideas on how to make this more quiet? The large wings nuts are tight and the top viewing cover is tight.
Depends on the noise. Rattle? Whistle from the slipstream?
Quote:
Second question: Is there a detailed step by step winterizing guide available.
Owner's manual should have one. Multiple threads here on the AirForums on the subject, but quick checklist:
1 - Pump as much water from your freshwater tank as you can, until the pump sucks air. Ideally, run it into the blackwater tank through the toilet, so that the water is used for a black tank flush. Might as well put that excess water to work rather than letting it run on the ground.
2 - Drain the black and gray tanks.
3 - Open the drain plug/valve on the bottom of the fresh tank, to drain out whatever water the pump couldn't pick up.
4 - Open all of the faucets to let air into the plumbing. Water will run out the low point drains more easily with the faucets open.
5 - Open all of the low point drains.
6 - Close the water heater bypass valve.
7 - Open the water heater's pressure relief valve, for the same reason you opened the faucets.
8 - Open the water heater drain plug.
9 - After everything quits dripping, close the low-point drains. Put the drain plug back in the bottom of the fresh tank, too, to keep bugs and vermin out. You want the low-point drains closed so that when you blow out the lines later, you'll blow out the whole line, and not just the part from the inlet to the drain.
10 - Attach a blowout plug to the municipal water inlet.
11 - Blow compressed air into the blowout fitting at 60psi or so, until no more water comes out the open faucets.
11A - If you have an outside shower fitting, make sure you open it as well to blow air through it.
11B - If you've ever used your exterior black tank flush fitting, blow air through it as well.
12 - Pour pink RV antifreeze into the sinks and shower drain to fill the P-traps with antifreeze, and to mix whatever residual water is left in the holding tanks with antifreeze as well.
12A - Add a bit of antifreeze to the toilet bowl, but don't flush; the antifreeze will keep the seal moist so it doesn't dry out. To keep the antifreeze from evaporating, cover the toilet bowl with Saran Wrap afterwards.
13 - Disconnect the pump inlet, and run a little bit of antifreeze through the pump to displace any trapped water. You do not need to fill the whole freshwater system with antifreeze if you've blown out the lines with compressed air, just fill the bits that retain fluid.
That is the whole process, as I do it. Other people have their own variations, including filling the whole freshwater system with antifreeze instead of blowing out the lines. But I've never done it that way, so someone else will have to give you their checklist if that method appeals to you.
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Old 01-22-2014, 04:57 PM   #3
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toliet valve too?

Whether going the air flush route or flushing the supply lines with antifreeze, I include pressing the toilet flush valve.

Even with the mild winter here, I skipped this step once and ended up with a leaking toilet valve.

When you remove the plastic drain plug from the water heater, you may consider tossing it and replacing it with one of these valves from your local RV store. Makes it easier the next time. Get some Teflon plumbers tape for the threads and be careful not to over tighten..



Anderson Brass Company | Manufacturers of Miniature Ball Valves, Brass Ball Valves, Drain Valves, Specialty Valves, Check Valves, Mulit-port Valves in Hartsville, SC
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:14 AM   #4
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Thank you very much, I really appreciate your help.
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:37 AM   #5
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Both of the above, thanks for the hot water heater plug advice, are right on; but, if you have attached to the toilet the little sprayer/spritzer, be sure to let the pink stuff flow through that as well.
For me, I fill the whole fresh water system with the pink stuff instead of using the "blow out with air" method........Takes 2 gallons maybe 3 at the most.
I drain the fresh water tank.

Bypass the hotwater and drain it

Close the fresh water drain and pour in 2 gallons of the pink.

Turn on the water pump and go around to all plumbing fixtures turning them on unil they flow pink. I allow the hot side and the cold side to flow.

Make sure that enough pink stuff has flown through the valve/fixture to fill the trap in the sink/shower drain system............


That's it.............In the spring I drain out the pink stuff, fill up the tank, flush the pink from the system, drain the tank, and refill with water..........I do this twice.......Then as I drive to my first trip I drain the tank as I drive and fill it up when I get there.........Easy Peasy.........God bless.......Dennis
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Old 01-23-2014, 09:58 AM   #6
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If you didn't know this already, be aware that a propane tank/regulator can make noise when in use. For example, if your furnace kicks on and the wind happens to gust at the same time, it might be mistaken as a wind-induced noise when it's really not.

Both trailers I've owned have had noisy propane tanks/regulators. Although it's somewhat annoying it's not a biggie for me personally. I've heard of folks changing regulators, so guess it's ok to do that...I can't advise one way or another because I've never done it.
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