Newbe on first winterizing needs to know ...

[Rob Cope]

I am going to winterize this week. It is a 2016 FC 25 back bedroom. If I do not have a way to use pressure, only gallons of antifreeze, how do I get to the small places, like something called a black water flusher, or a bypass or any other less obvious place. Just now I think I will pour a gallon or two of antifreeze into the freshwater holding tank (which is now empty) and turn on facets (sp?) and flush the toilet a few times until I see the pink antifreeze flowing. Also open a drain plug on the water heater. Have I done enough? Where I have the AS is outside in Washington State; the temperature is not likely to drop to less than 20 F.

[Woosch]

I don't know that I would just take the chance. For me, the best way would be to hire someone to do it for you and you can see how its done. I think you will be surprised how much water is in the system!

[rlhendren]

I searched YouTube before I winterized. There are a lot of helpful videos on how to do it. Don't forget about the outside shower if you have one. But I second Woosch's suggestion of having it done professionally if you have any doubts.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by Rob Cope

I am going to winterize this week. It is a 2016 FC 25 back bedroom. If I do not have a way to use pressure, only gallons of antifreeze, how do I get to the small places, like something called a black water flusher, or a bypass or any other less obvious place. Just now I think I will pour a gallon or two of antifreeze into the freshwater holding tank (which is now empty) and turn on facets (sp?) and flush the toilet a few times until I see the pink antifreeze flowing. Also open a drain plug on the water heater. Have I done enough? Where I have the AS is outside in Washington State; the temperature is not likely to drop to less than 20 F.

Welcome to the forum Rob!

I would recommend reading your owner's manual on the steps needed to winterize your 25'. The manual is not perfect, but is it a good start IMO.

I would also commend the Sticky topic at the top of the list of threads in this Winterizing sub-forum:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f458/

Here is the link to that thread:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f458...rize-7222.html

It is long, but lots of good info. there.

The issue of winterizing is too long to summarize here, but the resources above should help point you in the right direction.

Good luck!

Peter

PS -- You might consider investing in a small 120-volt compressor with its own storage tank and regulator, or a 12-volt model if that makes sense. We rely on using compressed air to winterize, and avoid antifreeze altogether FYI.

[CruizinDux]

Rob there is a lot of good advice above, however you may be to late. Unless your storage is heated, the forecast for tonight in FH is 23 and will be a hard freeze.

If it were me, tonight, I'd put the nose down and open the faucets, LP drains for/aft and drain the WH. I'd also put some AF down the traps and toilet. If you have S @ storage...maybe leave the furnace on and cabinet doors. If you have time maybe some of the misc items on the check like like blowing back on the FW line and disc the outflow & running the pump dry (disconnected for 15 seconds or so) ..towel handy...for the little bit of water.

IMO I would get it to a pro ASAP and first pressurize as you may already have failures. Best to know & fix now, then winterize. They also can install the diverter valve at the FW pump for your next time, if you choose to not go solely with air.

....as an aside...someone in another thread posted a link for a small hand pump to get the AF to the BW flush. Not a bad idea as there is a cheap plastic back flow/antiphon valve that has a history of failures. I use air everywhere general but would consider AF in this circumstance. BTW just drain the FW tank, don't bother with AF. You'll never get the taste out.

I've attached my check list and also a couple from the infamous Dave Schumann that was the basis for my list

Like Peter said, "PS -- You might consider investing in a small 120-volt compressor with its own storage tank and regulator, or a 12-volt model if that makes sense. We rely on using compressed air to winterize, and avoid antifreeze altogether FYI."

I used a 110VAC and 12VDC inflator for my first year and it worked fine...just slow. If you want to use air,and don't have another more often use to dictate a higher investment, compressors are cheap at the discount tool folks like harbor freight. Larger (5 gallon or so) just work quicker (IMO) ...the tankless are fine, just take longer.

Good Luck

bob

[Caffeinated]

If you are going to put rv antifreeze in the fresh water tank, you'll need more than 2 gallons. The hot water tank is 6 gallons and that will dilute two gallons too much. When I used to winterize hey way you plan, I used 8 gallons of antifreeze.

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by Caffeinated

If you are going to put rv antifreeze in the fresh water tank, you'll need more than 2 gallons. The hot water tank is 6 gallons and that will dilute two gallons too much. When I used to winterize hey way you plan, I used 8 gallons of antifreeze.

Whoa!!!!!! You drain the water heater, then turn the valve(s) to bypass it!

You do NOT need to fill the hw heater with antifreeze.

Be careful of some of the advice given here, sorry to say.

[Caffeinated]

Originally Posted by pcskier

Whoa!!!!!! You drain the water heater, then turn the valve(s) to bypass it!

You do NOT need to fill the hw heater with antifreeze.

Be careful of some of the advice given here, sorry to say.

I agree, except he said he was just going to ad add the antifreeze to the fresh water tank and pump it through the system. If he does that, which will work by the way, he will need much more antifreeze. By the way, this is how I winterized my sob for 20 yrs, with no issues. Had to because the tank plug was corroded and could get it out. Made it a pain to unwinterize, but it's doable.

Mike

[Spinonedad]

i let the dealer do it the first time since the unit is still on warranty

for $70 it wasn't worth having something break and then not covered on warranty the first two years,,,

[m.hony]

You don't have a bicycle pump?
You can purchase a Camco hand pump for winterizing.
The black tank flush doesn't require antifreeze. Simply use air to push the water out. There is no way to get antifreeze into it anyway.

[VT Wanderer]

I have made a step by step checklist for winterizing my 2014 27ft. FC Airstream. I'm sure there are some differences with your model, but it could be a good base to start on. If interested, email me at sgraner@aol.com. PS I have to "major" winterize living in northern VT.

[Jim Arnold]

I purchased a air tank from NAPA! I blew the water out of the system and it worked last year so I did the same thing this fall!

[m.hony]

I bought an air tank from Amazon last year.
I bought a $100 Craftsman 110 volt compressor from Sears this year.
Prior to that I used a bicycle pump.
A hand pump is available from Camco.
6 years of successful DIY winterizing...


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[Anders79]

Rob, if your not going to use your AS or you park it away from your house -- good idea to winterize; and i know 99.9% say to winterize. I will tell you i was at the Airstream NW work shop (our Washington state Airstream dealer) one or two years ago (have gone to several of their workshops); and when asked their chief mechanic about winterizing he said in the low elevations in the Northwest, it is not really a must. He said helps to have a small heater and open all the cabinet doors when it is going to have a cold spell. Consequently, since we will use our AS every once in awhile during the winter - I just keep a small heater going in it (even when not that cold). we are at a little higher elevation than you, and we have not yet had any problems. Just thought i would share.

[m.hony]

Keeping your Airstream plugged in to shore power and running the heat with cabinet doors open is a good thing.
I have done that between trips, but we are home till March now, so I winterized.
Keeping it plugged in and leaving the refrigerator and heat or air, whichever applies, is nice so that the trailer is warm or cool when you load it and the refrigerator is already cold when you load it- Coke, Sprite, Dr. Pepper, bottled water, mayonnaise, and mustard can stay in the trailer al the time.

[Rob Cope]

So far I have emptied both holding tanks and since AF is relatively cheap added AF to both. I am going to NAPA to check on how useful a air pressure device might be. A mate over coffee this am has winterized his SOBs or ten or so years blowing air from one or so of those tire inflators -- he has offered to help. As I am on an island there is a ferry fee of over $300 to get to an RV service on the mainland. I believe I will let the hot tank cool and since it is low, when switched off, open a drain. I think I will go ahead and add some gallons of AF to the freshwater holding tank and pump it through the system. I note a fellow Washingtonian says it never gets so cold that keeping one or more space heaters is all that is necessary -- but I still worry. All the cautions and links are appreciated. More when I have more to report. Thanks all.

[kdickinson]

I agree with Woosch - and in fact that is exactly what I did I had a mobile service come out and basically paid the guy to show me how to winterize my trailer and he walked me through it step by step

[m.hony]

No need to put antifreeze in tanks as some of it will end up there anyway when you run pink through the kitchen sink, shower, bathroom sink, and toilet.
This will also get antifreeze into the p-traps.
Watch a bunch of YouTube videos and get after it!


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[greghoro]

Caution, winterizing by adding antifreeze to the fresh water tank is easy but you will have a lot of rinsing and draining of the tank in the spring to eliminate the taste. Plus, since it is unlikely that you were able to drain the fresh water tank completely dry, you will be diluting the antifreeze.

Using glygol based RV antifreeze will result in less aftertaste than alcohol based. Look at the label and see which ingredient predominates. Glycol based is more expensive.

Agree with a previous poster to use a liquid transfer hand pump connected to the city water intake. I use a purpose made one by Camco (only way to add antifreeze to the black tank flush piping) and it does pump a large amount for each stroke.


Greg

[m.hony]

I think the winterizing T permanently installed on the inlet side of the pump is the way to go.
I have always simply used air to push the water out of the black tank flush system.
Maybe I should check into the Camco hand pump you mention so I can get antifreeze in there, too- or keep doing what I've been doing. If it ain't broke don't fix it...
On the other hand the Camco hand pump winterizing kit is only about $13.