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Old 02-17-2015, 04:24 AM   #1
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My Parking Dilemma

Hello all,
Thanks in advance for good thoughts sent my way about my parking dilemma!

Iíve signed the papers for my new Classic and am now in preparation stage for a mid April arrival. Currently my biggest concern is backing into the driveway from my narrow street that often has parked cars. I tow with an F250.

Even with Beauty, my 25í 2004, I had to jump the curb on occasion. I worry that the additional 6í? length could make the turning radius into the driveway all-but unmanageable. I guess I could build curb ramps?? Any such project on the forums? Or other solutions/ideas/techniques?

Would a front hitch receiver help or be too much hassle?
Any info would be appreciated. The anticipation is great; the uncertainty, not!
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Old 02-17-2015, 06:29 AM   #2
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To really assess the issue one would need exact measurements. But while the new trailer is 6' longer, it has only about 3' more overhang and may be able fit in tight spaces.

My suggestion would be to set up your limits on a large empty parking lot, using cones or other markers, and practice. As to jumping curbs, place some boards next to the curb to provide less curb height for the wheels to roll over and go for it!

I think the expense of a front hitch is not necessary, just go very very slowly while backing and do not be afraid to work back and forth a bit if you cannot get it exactly correct the first time.

I back my 30 footer from an extremely narrow street about 120' through a 12' wide door each time I come back home. Practice makes perfect.


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Old 02-17-2015, 07:33 AM   #3
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Msmoto,

Thanks for the words of encouragement.

I keep imagining the worst--and that's not good. Your advice about laying it out is good. I'll take my measurements and practice at the dealer's and on my way home. Boards are also a great idea--lightweight, cheap, and easily put into place!

BTW, for me the notion of backing 120 feet is way scary!

"How do you get into the driveway?"
"Practice, practice, practice!"
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Old 02-17-2015, 07:36 AM   #4
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I have a similar issue, does not sound as severe as yours but similar, plus I back down hill and then up into my driveway. To make is easier and put less of a strain on the hitch and bars I remove the bars prior to starting my backing into the driveway. This allows for a much tighter turn while backing without putting strain on the bars. I learned the hard way by bending the outside snaplock, in my case the right side completely flat due to the excessive force generated on the outside when backing in and up hill.

So, in short I would remove the bars, in fact when I pick ours up from storage and bring it home I don't even bother to put the bars on anymore. Then when I pull out of the driveway for a trip I stop and but them on.

Works for me, no real issues. OH, I did relocate our mailbox from the upside to the downside of the driveway and I did pull some plants our and put down some gravel to allow me to turn into and out of better.

Good luck. And congratulations on your order of your new AS.

Bud
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Old 02-17-2015, 07:44 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Scooter241 View Post
Boards are also a great idea--lightweight, cheap, and easily put into place!
They need to be fairly stout - 9,000 lbs of trailer has to go someplace... and that place is the tires (for the most part). We are lucky - rolled curbs in our neighborhood, rather than square ones.
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Old 02-17-2015, 07:54 AM   #6
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Hi Paiceman,

I never thought of removing the bars. Cool idea. I'll try it when I take my beloved Beauty to the dealer's for the swap.

We always stop once we get out on the street, anyway. I'll be able to practice without the bars at the dealer's to see the difference it makes.

Love this feedback and support. Very grateful for the tips.

Oh, I even removed a bush or two, trimmed others way back, and got asphalt all the way up the drive. Still seems too narrow when I'm backing in!
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:00 AM   #7
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They need to be fairly stout - 9,000 lbs of trailer has to go someplace... and that place is the tires (for the most part). We are lucky - rolled curbs in our neighborhood, rather than square ones.
Hi Skater,

Ours are square, 7" high, and there is a dip going into the driveway.

So, not just 2x4s stacked, but maybe 4x4s or more like 2x10s? Nailed and glued together?

Thanks again for the insight and ideas.
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:05 AM   #8
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Lay the boards parallel to the curb. They do not have to be a ramp. They are just there to lessen the height of the curb. I use a two by eight. Peace,jim
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:08 AM   #9
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Hi Jim,
Yea! That I can do for sure.
TY and peace back at ya!
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:56 AM   #10
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Scooter

Just be careful not to put too much torque on the truck when going over the boards as they can shoot out when the torque from the rear wheels hits them. I have used boards and try not to apply any acceleration as I am rolling over them. First time I did have them shoot out and hit the front wheels. Not a big problem, just a little disconcerting the first time.

Practice at the dealership. Then take her home. Of course hopefully by then the snow will be gone. I had a dual major at Oswego State, one in Meteorology, so I know a little about upstate NY snow and experienced it many times as well.

Take Care, you'll do fine, I tend to obsess over things like this as well. As my wife continually points out, "it will be fine, it will work".

Enjoy
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Old 02-17-2015, 09:13 AM   #11
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Today it's 2 degrees with a forecasted high of 18. Today it's a toss up between the snow and cold as to which is most annoying!

Good tip about not accelerating over the makeshift ramp. I've abused the lynx levels that way a couple of times which did cause one of them to shoot out. Some of us don't learn the first time..!

My intent is to take time thinking about the problem, ask people with experience for help and then just do it. It's the waiting that wears me down.

Maybe I can get a forecast from you as the big day approaches!

Thanks again for chiming in.
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Old 02-17-2015, 09:15 AM   #12
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I back my 30 footer from an extremely narrow street about 120' through a 12' wide door each time I come back home. Practice makes perfect.

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Old 02-17-2015, 10:17 AM   #13
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Scooter, HA. I'd hate to tell you the equipment we had when I majored in Meteorology, nothing like today and although the accuracy is better, nothing much beyond 72 hours is accurate, if that long. So you can ask, I can give you a forecast, but no guarantee, especially in upstate. We used to be called by our professor at 2:00AM in the morning if a Lake Effect was building on Lake Ontario and we would assemble, then some would stay on campus and others would trek over to the Tug Hill Plateau to measure winds, snow fall etc. No fancy Doppler for us, no sir, hand held instruments only. But we all loved it.
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Old 02-17-2015, 10:24 AM   #14
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A front receiver mount is relatively inexpensive (under $150) compared to the cost of your AS ... it makes the job much, much easier and -from my perspective- much safer, too. Once the AS starts the actual turning, you can directly see down the whole length of the trailer on the inside of the turn and make those minor adjustments to the arc before they are problematic. Better view is provided of what is going on and no neck aches from straining to see both in the mirror and actual direct vision of the AS while your TV is in reverse. As you have no doubt already concluded, the turns for proper positioning must start many feet in advance. The front connection to the TV provides a much faster acting and more precise adjustment to the trailer tracking.

With your 3/4 T rating, the front suspension should be able to handle the TW for short stints of parking ... not sure that I would recommend the front receiver for AS of heavy TW and TVs without very HD suspension however. It has worked well for us on the last three TV / AS combos. YMMV
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