Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-27-2014, 06:17 AM   #1
Rivet Master
 
mandolindave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
Images: 4
My new winterizing trick

I was tired of flushing the antifreeze out of my water heater every spring. Last year I siphoned the water out of the tank. NO antifreeze. ( mouth full of bottom of the tank water…yeah eww ) This year I found a little water pump that is powered by an electric drill. $ 8.99 at the hardware store. Two years ago I just removed the drain plug, and let the water flow out, figuring that the small amount of water, and the shape of the tank would prevent the tank from cracking. Then I got worried that water might be in the lower tank outlet. Sorry if this is old news
mandolindave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2014, 08:03 AM   #2
Rivet Master
 
AnnArborBob's Avatar
 
2014 27' FB Eddie Bauer
Chelsea , Michigan
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,792
Images: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandolindave View Post
I was tired of flushing the antifreeze out of my water heater every spring. Last year I siphoned the water out of the tank. NO antifreeze. ( mouth full of bottom of the tank water…yeah eww ) This year I found a little water pump that is powered by an electric drill. $ 8.99 at the hardware store. Two years ago I just removed the drain plug, and let the water flow out, figuring that the small amount of water, and the shape of the tank would prevent the tank from cracking. Then I got worried that water might be in the lower tank outlet. Sorry if this is old news
Has no one ever told you about the hot water tank bypass valve? Most people I know simply drain the hot water tank, then close off the bypass valve before running the anti-freeze through the pump and into each faucet/water outlet in their trailer. The bypass valve basically takes the hot water tank out of the loop so it does not get filled with anti-freeze in the first place. Hence no need to flush the hot water tank at all.
__________________
Bob Martel
WBCCI# 5766
AnnArborBob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2014, 08:12 AM   #3
Rivet Master
 
GeocamperAS's Avatar
 
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
Currently Looking...
Wauwatosa , Wisconsin
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 810
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandolindave View Post
I was tired of flushing the antifreeze out of my water heater every spring. Last year I siphoned the water out of the tank. NO antifreeze. ( mouth full of bottom of the tank water…yeah eww ) This year I found a little water pump that is powered by an electric drill. $ 8.99 at the hardware store. Two years ago I just removed the drain plug, and let the water flow out, figuring that the small amount of water, and the shape of the tank would prevent the tank from cracking. Then I got worried that water might be in the lower tank outlet. Sorry if this is old news
I thought antifreeze in the Stainless steal tank was bad for it. That's one of the reasons for the bypass valve. So I took out the drain plug and installed a valve. I drain the tank and all lines first then I close everything and fill with air. Compressor set at 40psi. When it shuts off I open one thing at a time getting some spray then close. I do this several times until I get no spray. then close the hot and cold valves to the water heater, open the bypass and suck antifreeze into the lines.
Some say doing both, blowing out the lines and adding antifreeze, is overkill but here in the frigid winters of Wisconsin I don't take any chances.
__________________
Judging a person does not define who they are, it defines who YOU are.
GeocamperAS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2014, 08:40 AM   #4
Rivet Master
 
mandolindave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
Images: 4
Bob, I know about the bypass

I used to use the method in which you open the bypass for a few seconds, to get just a little bit of antifreeze to mix with the water that didn't drain out of the water heater tank. ( so as not to use so much anti freeze )
My new method saves me steps winterizing and unwinterizing, and gives me piece of mind. Perhaps a little better on the environment, and my wallet.
mandolindave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2014, 08:48 AM   #5
Rivet Master
 
HowieE's Avatar
 
1991 34' Excella
Princeton , New Jersey
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,070
Images: 12
If you are working alone, and have drained the hot water heater first, and then using the empty hot water tank as a ballast tank for the air pressure that will work. After you have purged the water from the lines close the bypass valve and fill the lines with antifreeze.

If you have someone to work with just close the bypass valve, let the heater drain, and while you apply air to the system have them open one faucet, don't forget the toilet, at a time till they get air out. This will save running back and forth to open faucets.

Even though a curved sided tank will not be harmed by the last quart of water left in it after draining I like to put an 18 in. piece of 1/4 in. hose in the drain while the tank is draining this will siphon that last water out.
__________________
WBCCI 12156 AIR 3144 WACHUNG TAC NJ6
2004 Excursion 4x4
1991 34 ft. Excella +220,000 miles, new laminated flooring, new upholstery, new 3200 lbs axles

HowieE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2014, 08:50 AM   #6
Rivet Master
 
mandolindave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
Images: 4
GEO……..thanks

Now I understand the HOW TO of blowing out the lines….finally. Thanks
Next year I will try rigging up my 12 volt compressor. One of the reasons that I shy away from blowing out the lines is that the previous owner had to reroute a water line in the belly to make a repair. It is obviously the lowest point and I was concerned that water would settle there, and it's really tough to get at if it did burst. BUT…blowing out the lines, is surely a smart way to go in addition to any other precautions I take.
mandolindave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2014, 08:58 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
mandolindave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
Images: 4
Howie……

I am here to tell you that there is way more than a quart of water left in my tank after I drain it. And as I stated…it occurred to me that the tank inlet might still be filled with water after the tank was drained.
As I stated, last year I siphoned out the tank. What I didn't say was that this year the water smelled funny, and I REALLY didn't want a mouth full of bad water.

AND, my new drill powered pump gets more water out, and much faster, than siphoning.
mandolindave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2014, 09:05 AM   #8
Rivet Master
 
AnnArborBob's Avatar
 
2014 27' FB Eddie Bauer
Chelsea , Michigan
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,792
Images: 12
Gotcha!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mandolindave View Post
I used to use the method in which you open the bypass for a few seconds, to get just a little bit of antifreeze to mix with the water that didn't drain out of the water heater tank. ( so as not to use so much anti freeze )
My new method saves me steps winterizing and unwinterizing, and gives me piece of mind. Perhaps a little better on the environment, and my wallet.
Got it! 👍
__________________
Bob Martel
WBCCI# 5766
AnnArborBob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2014, 09:06 AM   #9
Rivet Master
 
Wingeezer's Avatar
 
2005 30' Classic
Burlington , Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandolindave View Post
I used to use the method in which you open the bypass for a few seconds, to get just a little bit of antifreeze to mix with the water that didn't drain out of the water heater tank. ( so as not to use so much anti freeze )
My new method saves me steps winterizing and unwinterizing, and gives me piece of mind. Perhaps a little better on the environment, and my wallet.
Opening the tank valves momentarily when you have antifreeze in the pipes also makes sure that there is no water trapped in the valve bodies and that if anything is trapped, it is antifreeze. Trapped water could cause problems I believe especially if they are ball valves - as mine are. I always try to remember to do that!

Brian.
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell

2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
Wingeezer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2014, 09:14 AM   #10
3 Rivet Member
 
JaynEss's Avatar
 
1994 21' Sovereign
The high country. Black Mountain range. , North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 109
Images: 5
PO left us a turkey baster with an extension tube to get the last bit of water out of the tank after draining it and bypassing. No problems.
__________________
WBCCI 28499
"Not all those who wander are lost"
J.R.R. Tolkien
JaynEss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2014, 10:01 AM   #11
Rivet Master
 
mandolindave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
Images: 4
Brian

I was just thinking about the lower tank stem. But yeah…good point about the valve bodies, cause I really don't like changing them. ( Pex goes in easy, but removing stuff….not so much ) I think that I will keep using antifreeze as well as my other procedures. Especially because I just installed plumbing to allow me to add antifreeze without removing the hose line coming out of my fresh water tank.
mandolindave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2014, 10:09 AM   #12
Rivet Master
 
mandolindave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
Images: 4
Jayn….

It's kind of ironic that you posted the great idea of the turkey baster on a day such as this. I can imagine it now……WHERE IS MY TURKEY BASTER???? haha
mandolindave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2014, 10:18 AM   #13
Rivet Master
 
Wingeezer's Avatar
 
2005 30' Classic
Burlington , Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandolindave View Post
I was just thinking about the lower tank stem. But yeah…good point about the valve bodies, cause I really don't like changing them. ( Pex goes in easy, but removing stuff….not so much ) I think that I will keep using antifreeze as well as my other procedures. Especially because I just installed plumbing to allow me to add antifreeze without removing the hose line coming out of my fresh water tank.
Dave,

I have never worked with pex - I keep thinking I should buy the crimping tool and play with it a bit so as to be all set to use it if/when I need to but have never gotten around to it!

Years ago with a previous trailer I used to just blow the lines with an air compressor and call it good. Then more recently, I read that although that will be fine most of the time, it des not necessarily get all the water out and there is a possibility that some of the water left in the pipes can pool someplace and cause freezing damage so I switched to using antifreeze instead of blowing the lines.

Then I learned that some people do both - i.e. blow with air first then fill with antifreeze so I have been doing that in recent years!

I'm not sure there is really any advantage over just introducing the antifreeze and letting it push the water out - I suppose you could get a bit of dilution of the antifreeze if you just pump it in without blowing the lines first. I can't think of any other reason to do both.

Brian.
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell

2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
Wingeezer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2014, 10:35 AM   #14
3 Rivet Member
 
JaynEss's Avatar
 
1994 21' Sovereign
The high country. Black Mountain range. , North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 109
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandolindave View Post
It's kind of ironic that you posted the great idea of the turkey baster on a day such as this. I can imagine it now……WHERE IS MY TURKEY BASTER???? haha
Susan (wife) said the same thing.
__________________
WBCCI 28499
"Not all those who wander are lost"
J.R.R. Tolkien
JaynEss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2014, 11:14 AM   #15
Rivet Master
 
terryV's Avatar
 
2002 31' Classic
Currently Looking...
Monroe , Iowa
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 649
When I was young and agile,I winterized my AS myself. Then I found that my dealer would do it for just a little bit of money, AND fix it free if there was any freezing damage.

I noticed that the dealers all drain out the water, blow out the water, fill the system (except water heater) with antifreeze, and then drain out the antifreeze.

Seeing as their butt is on the line for fixing any frozen and busted items, I'm thinking that is THE correct way to do it.

For all these years, I've never seen them do anything to the water heater except remove the drain plug, and open the pressure valve at the top. (Yes, I do walk around and watch everything they do.)

AND in all these years, I've never had any damage from freezing.
terryV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2014, 12:09 PM   #16
retired USA/USAF
 
2001 30' Excella
Somerset , New Jersey
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,418
Now, isn't this forum best. I now have another use for that darned turkey baster that does nothing but take up space the rest of the year.

ThankX all and a Happy T-Day to you all.
__________________
Roger in NJ

" Democracy is the worst form of government. Except for all the rest"
Winston Churchill 1948

TAC - NJ 18

polarlyse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2014, 12:13 PM   #17
2 Rivet Member
 
Minipad's Avatar
 
2013 23' FB International
2013 25' Flying Cloud
In the Rockies, 6700' , Colorado
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 49
My AS resides in the Colorado mountains with frequent sub zero temps. I've successfully winterized for two winters now (and so far in this winter as a third) with the following process:

1) I open the fresh water tank drain and let it drain for the last 30 or so miles of my final leg home before winterizing. I also remove the plug from my hot water heater at the same time.

2) Upon arrival, I turn on the water pump to purge any water inside the pump itself and whatever is in the lines. It usually needs to run for 5 minutes or so. While it's running, I drain the black and gray tanks and leave the valves open for the time being. I usually raise and lower the trailer tongue during this process to obtain better emptying of the tanks.

3) I attach an air hose and compressor to the city water connection and apply approximately 30 PSI to system. Air should be escaping from the hot water plug hole. I let it run for 20 minutes or so and then I close the hot water bypass valve. I store the hot water heater plug and do not reinstall it into the heater until next use.

4) I alternatively open all faucets (including the toilet flush) and leave them open until there is no moisture escaping from each. I repeat this process several times and include a few-minute run of the pump in the rotation. Also included in the rotation is opening the low point valves under the trailer. Don't forget to remove the shower hose (if applicable) and to include the kitchen sink sprayer in the rotation. (I disconnected my external shower and capped the lines. I filled the fixture box with a piece of foam. Didn't like the freeze potential it posed.)

5) I pour about a cup of RV antifreeze into all drains and then I close the black and gray tank valves. I then add another pint of RV antifreeze to all drains and about half a cup into the toilet bowl to keep the valve seal moist. The extra RV antifreeze into the drains forces a small amount of RV antifreeze to the bottom of both tanks and against the dump valves. (My bathroom sink drains into my black tank, otherwise you will need to flush the toilet with some antifreeze.)

Often I will leave the low point drains and water tank drain open for a few days just to ensure any residual moisture can drain. (Of course the temps have to be above freezing for a bit.)

I frequently use my AS in the winter so dewinterizing is as simple as adding water to the fresh water tank, reinstalling the hot water tank drain plug and hitting the road. Since I have put no antifreeze into the lines or fresh water tank, there is no need for flushing.

One thing to consider is that the Colorado mountains have an extremely dry climate so the air going into my compressor is pretty dry as well as the flow of the air through my system does a pretty good job of drying the lines. In a more humid climate, use caution.
Minipad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2014, 01:06 PM   #18
Rivet Master
 
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeocamperAS View Post
I thought antifreeze in the Stainless steal tank was bad for it. That's one of the reasons for the bypass valve.
Just for clarification, the hot water tank used in Airstreams is aluminum, not stainless steel. RV antifreeze should not bother it though.
idroba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2014, 03:39 AM   #19
3 Rivet Member
 
Currently Looking...
belen , New Mexico
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 191
Two years in a row I got a rotten egg smell in the water heater even with bypass valve and I assume it was due to non toxic anti freeze? This year Im taking the rig to Phoenix and storing it at our house there we are reclaiming as a second home! Leaving on Wed and been running the heat for a week to keep the plumbing from freezing as weve been in the teens a few times already in NM When I do winterize I blow it out and then pump it full of antifreeze from water pump.
alantbird is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2014, 05:38 AM   #20
Figment of My Imagination
 
Protagonist's Avatar
 
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over , More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,868
Quote:
Originally Posted by alantbird View Post
Two years in a row I got a rotten egg smell in the water heater even with bypass valve and I assume it was due to non toxic anti freeze?
I'm not aware that RV antifreeze causes a rotten egg smell.

If you have a water heater with an anode (modern Atwood water heaters don't use an anode) then deterioration of the zinc anode can cause a rotten egg smell due to the chemical reactions involved. If you pull the anode and check it, you might see that it needs replacement.
__________________
I thought getting old would take longer!
Protagonist is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Simple trick for installing upper inner skins... malconium General Interior Topics 4 05-03-2022 06:03 AM
Sticky Window Trick Foiled Again Windows & Screens 18 07-13-2008 04:06 PM
paint can lid trick pinkflamingoes Lights - Interior & Exterior 1 02-13-2006 08:43 AM
what's the trick? baxter Sinks, Showers & Toilets 0 11-21-2005 06:40 PM
Try this!! Window frame oxidation removal trick... niftypkg Cleaning, Stripping & Polishing 2 08-23-2002 05:49 AM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:50 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.