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Old 12-04-2011, 04:22 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by dznf0g

However, be aware that if you disconnect your batteries (I think at the post only...I believe there is a live keep alive circuit if you use the disconnect switch) you will need to reprogram this feature upon reconnecting the batteries.
This may be model dependent. I have the 5-button CCC. The programming on mine was done by some DIP switches and jumper on the board in the ceiling unit. I've had the batteries out and the power off when I replaced the Parallax unit and auto switchover to furnace still worked afterwards.
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Old 12-04-2011, 04:24 PM   #30
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This may be model dependent. I have the 5-button CCC. The programming on mine was done by some DIP switches and jumper on the board in the ceiling unit. I've had the batteries out and the power off when I replaced the Parallax unit and auto switchover to furnace still worked afterwards.
Hmmm. mine is also a 5 button, but my manual even spells it out (in very small print). I'll have to look it up again.
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Old 12-04-2011, 04:36 PM   #31
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OK, I have a five button, but apparently all 5 buttons are not created equally.
Mine is part #3109228.001 The manual does not mention dip switches at all, but discusses auto switchover. HOWEVER IT DOES NOT STATE HOW TO PROGRAM IT.

I had forgotten my information came from forum member Lewster, here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...ion-71069.html

I have a hand written note on Lewster's post #3 which says anytime battery is disconnected OR STORE SWITCH is switched of, I must reprogram.

I must have experimented with this last spring. Sounds like maybe there was a change in the 2008 CCCs???? It would be nice not to have to mess with reprogramming!
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Old 12-04-2011, 05:06 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g
OK, I have a five button, but apparently all 5 buttons are not created equally... anytime battery is disconnected OR STORE SWITCH is switched of, I must reprogram.... Sounds like maybe there was a change in the 2008 CCCs???? It would be nice not to have to mess with reprogramming!
That definitely sounds like a design in need of a change. Apparently Dometic stepped up to the plate and made a revision.
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Old 12-04-2011, 05:10 PM   #33
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That definitely sounds like a design in need of a change. Apparently Dometic stepped up to the plate and made a revision.
Are you sure? I think the dip switches in the overhead unit: 1) just activate the signal to the CCC that the minimum temperature has been met and 2) make the CCC recognize the furnace option is available.

I believe in order for the CCC to take that dip switch information and ACTUALLY perform the switchover, the CCC must be programmed per Lewster's info.

Some of my theory is reading between the lines in several of Lewster's diagnosis threads. Maybe he'll chime in.
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:13 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by dznf0g

Are you sure? I think the dip switches in the overhead unit: 1) just activate the signal to the CCC that the minimum temperature has been met and 2) make the CCC recognize the furnace option is available.
...
I think we're zeroing in on this. The "programming" is done at installation by the DIP switches jumpers and plugging on the control board in the ceiling unit. That tells the system exactly what combination of hardware is installed. There is firmware somewhere (maybe in the CCC or in the control board) that controls what is displayed on the CCC and how the various functions operate. The procedure Lewster outlined in his post is a hard reset, similar to rebooting a PC to reload a fresh copy of the firmware. I've had to do it, but for a different reason. As I recall the fan started to run continuously regardless of settings. The reset fixed it. They may have changed the firmware at some point, but I've not had the experience of losing the Aux Heat function after a total power disconnect.
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:01 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Are you sure? I think the dip switches in the overhead unit: 1) just activate the signal to the CCC that the minimum temperature has been met and 2) make the CCC recognize the furnace option is available.

I believe in order for the CCC to take that dip switch information and ACTUALLY perform the switchover, the CCC must be programmed per Lewster's info.

Some of my theory is reading between the lines in several of Lewster's diagnosis threads. Maybe he'll chime in.
Correct! The dip switches tell the CCC what features you have and want to activate (things like furnace, auto generator start or which A/C unit this is; the latter features are normally used on motor homes with integrated generators or multiple A/C units) and the CCC must be re-set every time the dip switches are changed or the DC power is removed from the CCC. It tends to forget what it was told (sort of like most of us as we get on in years!!!)

Anyway, when the furnace option is activated on the relay board via the dip switches of a Duotherm heat pump, the relay board reads the outside ambient temperature via a remote temp sensor located on the upper A/C unit and will tell the relay board to switch from heat pump to furnace when the outside temps drop below the normal operating range of the heat pump.

At least that how Dometic says it should work. YMMV!!!!!
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Old 11-23-2012, 12:07 PM   #36
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Had the same problem. I rectified mine by going to a self-storage place and buying flattened cardboard boxes. The cardboard is a good insulator and easy to work with as I can adjust the layers between the plywood and mattress. Also makes that notorious hard mattress a bit softer.

The underside covering of my mattress also had some black spots. I put my finger through one to see if there was any mold in the foam. The foam was clean. I also bleached the plywood. It came up clean and does not smell.

When the weather is better I'm going to haul my mattress outside and cut the blemished underside covering off. I suppose I could demand a new mattress since I'm still under warranty, but I'm not. The foam is not compromised. So, I can live with it.
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Old 11-23-2012, 01:29 PM   #37
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For mold stains on a cushion I had in the pick-up, I left it in the sun, vacuumed it, sprayed it with bleach, dried it again and revacuumed it.
That worked for me.

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When the weather is better I'm going to haul my mattress outside and cut the blemished underside covering off..[/QUOTE]
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Old 11-23-2012, 06:48 PM   #38
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I decided to run a 200W "personal heater in the under bed storage compartment. Now there is not enough of a temp difference between the compartment and the bedroom to condense moisture under the mattress. (dehumidifier helps as well).
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Old 11-30-2012, 07:48 AM   #39
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I read about this problem but did not have it in my trailer - yet. When I remodeled the bed (made it bigger), I put a sheet of 1/2" blue styro insulation between the mattress and plywood. I pieced it around and duct taped it - haven't had any problems......haven't camped much yet either......I think it's going to work great though.
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:22 AM   #40
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We are rookies so this is probably something I should know. Why is the storage compartment open at the top in the first place? Does this have a practical application? I have been in the construction business for over forty years and know a little about insulation and vapor barriers, so this makes no sense.
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Old 11-30-2012, 04:42 PM   #41
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We are rookies so this is probably something I should know. Why is the storage compartment open at the top in the first place? Does this have a practical application? I have been in the construction business for over forty years and know a little about insulation and vapor barriers, so this makes no sense.
It's not "open" per se. It does open on a hinge for access to the storage compartment. Problem there is no insulation...just s sheet of plywood. So if the compartment gets cold enough and there is enough humidity inside the living quarters, water condenses between the mattress and the plywood. Then mold grows and ruins the mattress.
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:17 AM   #42
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Condensation or wetness under bed.

Hi, we have not had this problem in our trailer, but it was getting cold under our bed. I removed the plywood storage compartment top / bed mattress support. I put Styrofoam insulation under the plywood only in the storage compartment area. And I used two strips of "D" shaped weather seal around my storage door. I no longer have cold air leaking past the storage door and under our bed.
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