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Old 12-16-2010, 04:05 PM   #15
Don't forget your cat nap
 
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
I did some research on this. If you have etchings in the floor, battery is leaking
............................................
Or,during previous maintenance or perhaps boiling over, etc., there was acid on the top of the case. The acid, when in a humid environment (boat dock for instance) would leach around the case to the bottom and etch the surface it was sitting on.

I think it is a safe assumption that one does not want to place any lead acid battery on a non acid resistant surface, if one cares about the surface.

Ken
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:48 AM   #16
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Wow! Thanks for the replies

We have had too many single digit nights already..
I do not like the idea of putting a space heater in it, so I am just going to bring the batteries in, and put them in the basement.
I have heard (could be old info) that putting them on the trickle charger while indoors is not a good idea, so I'm not sure how I'll keep them charged.
I am not interested in lugging them outside every two weeks to put them on a charger..
I also cannot get the switch by the door to turn off, when the elec is plugged in. When its running on the batteries only it turns on/off, but not when the elec is hooked up.
So, I will get it squared away this weekend.
This is 2nd year with the Bambi, I had the dealer do the winterization last yr, I did it myself this year. (followed the instructions in Winterization posts)
I just hope everything is ok next spring (plumbing wise) I will have no one to blame but myself...

Thanks for all the replies,

Jeff
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Old 12-18-2010, 08:59 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GettinAway View Post
We have had too many single digit nights already..
I do not like the idea of putting a space heater in it, so I am just going to bring the batteries in, and put them in the basement.
I have heard (could be old info) that putting them on the trickle charger while indoors is not a good idea, so I'm not sure how I'll keep them charged.
I am not interested in lugging them outside every two weeks to put them on a charger..
I also cannot get the switch by the door to turn off, when the elec is plugged in. When its running on the batteries only it turns on/off, but not when the elec is hooked up.
So, I will get it squared away this weekend.
This is 2nd year with the Bambi, I had the dealer do the winterization last yr, I did it myself this year. (followed the instructions in Winterization posts)
I just hope everything is ok next spring (plumbing wise) I will have no one to blame but myself...

Thanks for all the replies,

Jeff

Before you tear things apart to fix the switch.

Are you are just going by the red indicator light on the switch?

Mine stays on when the plugged into AC. no matter what position the switch is in.

It is addressed in the owners manual someplace.
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Old 12-18-2010, 11:11 AM   #18
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The switch by the door does not disconnect the battery when the trailer is plugged in, and the red light will remain on. Only when unplugged it will go out. Its not fully disconnected either. The propane detector still draws current in either position.

By the way, if unplugged and you switch to "store", then back to "use", then back to "store", the radio system will come on automatically, and drain the battery. It's a screwy setup, but that's how it was designed.

Doug
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Old 12-18-2010, 02:08 PM   #19
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I leave mine plugged in year round. Refrigerator on as well. Also a dehumidifier. Three stage converter.
No problem with batteries to date.

Tom
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Old 12-18-2010, 02:31 PM   #20
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I leave my Airstream plugged in while sitting in the driveway over the winter and I put it in "use" mode to charge the battery for a few days and then switch it to "store" for two weeks to disconnect the battery and prevent overcharging. The trailer remains plugged in the entire time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
The switch by the door does not disconnect the battery when the trailer is plugged in, and the red light will remain on. Only when unplugged it will go out.
When I read the above statement I was concerned that my method was wrong and that I was overcharging the battery even when the switch was in "store" mode.

I took a battery voltage meter out to the trailer and took a reading directly from the batteries in "store" mode. It read 12.2 volts, which indicates that the batteries are indeed disconnected from the charger when in "store" mode even though the trailer is plugged in.

I switched to "use" and the reading jumped to 13.4 indicating that the batteries were receiving a charge.

It appears that the red light is on if there's a power source of any kind, be it battery, power cord or solar even if the switch is on store. That makes the switch confusing to many.
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Old 12-18-2010, 04:08 PM   #21
Don't forget your cat nap
 
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Originally Posted by TinLoaf View Post
I leave my Airstream plugged in while sitting in the driveway over the winter and I put it in "use" mode to charge the battery for a few days and then switch it to "store" for two weeks to disconnect the battery and prevent overcharging. The trailer remains plugged in the entire time.



When I read the above statement I was concerned that my method was wrong and that I was overcharging the battery even when the switch was in "store" mode.

I took a battery voltage meter out to the trailer and took a reading directly from the batteries in "store" mode. It read 12.2 volts, which indicates that the batteries are indeed disconnected from the charger when in "store" mode even though the trailer is plugged in.

I switched to "use" and the reading jumped to 13.4 indicating that the batteries were receiving a charge.

It appears that the red light is on if there's a power source of any kind, be it battery, power cord or solar even if the switch is on store. That makes the switch confusing to many.
I have often wondered why some Airstreams are wired that way. I have never run into that system in any other RV. They have all had manual battery disconnect switches.

My 2010 Classic has a manual switch that disconnects the load from the batteries, but leaves the charging sources connected to the batteries. I don't like that either. I am going to rewire the switch so that it disconnects the batteries, but leaves the converter connected to the load. That way I can still have lights etc while on shore power with the batteries disconnected or absent.

Before someone tells me that I will destroy something in that configuration, modern converters are designed to provide proper voltage to the load, with no batteries connected.

Regards,

Ken
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Old 12-18-2010, 04:21 PM   #22
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TinLoaf, I think you're right. Here's what my Owner's Manual reads:


"Battery Disconnect Switch

The disconnect switch is used to separate the batteries from the 12-volt distribution panel and converter charging system.

When the switch is turned to "use" (on) and the trailer is plugged into a 10-volt shoreline, the 12-volt distribution panel will receive power from the converter and the batteries will be charged through the converter charging system.

When the switch is turned to "store" (off) and the trailer is plugged into a 110-volt shoreline, the 12-volt distribution panel will still receive power from the converter, but the batteries are disconnected from the system. The batteries will not be drained with the switch in the store position. The converter will not charge the batteries with the switch in this position.

The charge in the 12-volt batteries is replenished when towing from the tow vehicle alternator through the 7-way cord. this charge will go to the batteries no matter which
position the Battery Disconnect switch is in."


The Owners Manual does not describe the function of the switch when not plugged into 110-volt shoreline. That is when cycling the Battery Disconnect Switch will turn on the radio system, and therefore discharge the battery. In my trailer the radio is inside a cabinet door and you cannot see it come on (taking off the radio cover does not disable power to the radio). I leave the trailer plugged in all the time. The converter has failed and replaced under warranty. No battery boil-over.

Doug
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Old 12-20-2010, 08:35 AM   #23
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It's just too easy to un-plug it. Then I watch the red light go out when I hit the switch..
I'll plug it back in again in a few weeks and leave it on for 24 hrs..
Then repeat all winter..

Could be worse, I could be hauling the batteries in and out to put them on a trickle charger..
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Old 12-20-2010, 08:42 AM   #24
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I have often wondered why some Airstreams are wired that way. I have never run into that system in any other RV. They have all had manual battery disconnect switches.

My 2010 Classic has a manual switch that disconnects the load from the batteries, but leaves the charging sources connected to the batteries. I don't like that either. I am going to rewire the switch so that it disconnects the batteries, but leaves the converter connected to the load. That way I can still have lights etc while on shore power with the batteries disconnected or absent.

Before someone tells me that I will destroy something in that configuration, modern converters are designed to provide proper voltage to the load, with no batteries connected.

Ken,

Regards,

Ken
Are you just going to take the charge line from the converter loose and move it to the post on the disconnect switch on the upstream (fuse block) side of the disconnect switch?

I had thought about doing this, but just kinda dropped it down my list of mods. Let us know how it works out.
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Old 12-20-2010, 08:49 AM   #25
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A little confusing and therefore an easy opportunity to make a mistake, if you ask me. I had a converter go out on a trailer (SOB) and it drained the battery completely. Fortunately it wasn't cold enough to freeze it. And, There are usually enough systems that still run on the battery, like the CO detector that you cannot disconnect that will eventually drain the battery.
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