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Old 11-23-2006, 07:27 AM   #15
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The nice thing about using the anti-freeze (for those of us who actually use our trailers during the winter a bit) is that you can winterize on the road with it. There's no need to find a compressor, and you don't have to worry about the pump. You drain the tanks, suck the anti-freeze into the lines, and you're on the road again without worry of freezing while driving. It's less than a ten minute process.

BTW, guys... the anti-freeze doesn't hurt the plumbing, is non-toxic, and flushes out of the lines within seconds of seeing clear water at the taps. The old stuff was kind of nasty (the reason I used to just blow mine out), but the product(s) they make today are really easy to use.

Roger
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Old 11-23-2006, 07:35 AM   #16
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That won't work for me

Quote:
Originally Posted by 85MH325
The nice thing about using the anti-freeze ... is that you can winterize on the road with it. There's no need to find a compressor, ...
My shore water plumbing (checkvalve, reg) will hold water that does not drain with anything but compressed air. Granted, it is not much water, but then not much is required to freeze and have a problem.

And the checkvalve does not "check" 100%, so water will backfill the area in question even when only the pump is being used.

Tom
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Old 11-23-2006, 09:24 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85MH325
The nice thing about using the anti-freeze (for those of us who actually use our trailers during the winter a bit) is that you can winterize on the road with it.
Good point. I forget not everyone, like us MHers, have heated tanks and water lines while they travel.
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Old 11-23-2006, 09:34 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
My shore water plumbing (checkvalve, reg) will hold water that does not drain with anything but compressed air. Granted, it is not much water, but then not much is required to freeze and have a problem.

And the checkvalve does not "check" 100%, so water will backfill the area in question even when only the pump is being used.

Tom
Tom, if you're talking about the back-flow preventer on the incoming water line, the accepted method of dealing with that is: once the plumping is charged completely with anti-freeze, go outside and hold the tip of the back-flow preventer in with your finger until anti-freeze comes out the hose connector, then let it seal again. The anti-freeze will displace any water on the back side. Generally though, that water on the back-side of the valve shouldn't be a problem as it's open to the air and can freeze and expand out the hose connector without causing any damage.

The back-flow preventer on the water tank is usually inside the pump, and the intake valve installation is done on the intake side of the pump, so the pump's back-flow preventer is taken care of automatically with anti-freeze on both sides.

Roger
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