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Old 08-29-2016, 06:36 AM   #15
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FYI, 2"foam underpinning R-Factor is 9, average straw bale R value is 28, at least.three times the insulation. It must be kept dry though.
If you have any trailer/ morotorhome/car/tractor idle it is an invitation to rodents. That is a seperate issue from insulation and warmth.
I store my AS in an all steel building with concrete floors, I still have to manage for rodents.They nest in cowling of the cars and in my friends Motor home and in the dash of my tractor which are also stored there, it has little to do with straw and the world to do with insulating materlas and the world to do with them finding small, confined dry spaces.
You will have to deal with rodents.
If I were wintering Colorado in an AS I would buy enough bales and bags to stack around up to the bottoms of the windows and I would loosly fill bags and put them on the top, as previously mentioned an AS is not designed for full time living, but with a little redneck engineering you can make your stay more comfortable, all be it not fashionable.
Explore the use of straw bales in houses if you need more understanding.
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Old 08-29-2016, 09:51 AM   #16
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It has been difficult finding help on my many Airstream projects so it is solely up to me to get them done. The partial winter I lived in my a/s was brutal but I survived so I know I can do it again, just want to be better prepared this year.
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Old 10-30-2017, 07:38 PM   #17
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Any update for your winter airstream living?

Hi Airboutique - any update for how your winter in colorado went? We recently are currently planning to spend ski season in summit county colorado in our vintage airstream motorhome. We are planning to skirt the bottom with foam insulation but are worried as we are very naive to this process and we have a lot of windows!
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Old 10-31-2017, 03:53 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blogworthy View Post
Hi Airboutique - any update for how your winter in colorado went? We recently are currently planning to spend ski season in summit county colorado in our vintage airstream motorhome. We are planning to skirt the bottom with foam insulation but are worried as we are very naive to this process and we have a lot of windows!
Clear plastic bubble wrap fastened to the windows will provide some insulation while letting in the light. Adding 3M crystalline film to the windows will also block heat transfer without blocking the view, and is permanent, but is much more expensive than bubble wrap. You can use either bubble wrap, Reflectix (bubble wrap with an aluminum skin), or Prodex (more on Prodex below) to cover the inside of any roof vent or skylight, too.

If you want to skirt your motorhome, may I suggest using multi-layer flexible polyethylene foam insulation like Prodex (available in 16", 24", and 48" widths: http://www.insulation4less.com/Insul...l-16-inch.aspx) where the foam is encased on both sides by aluminum film, to make the skirt. Bind the edges of the Prodex with aluminum foil tape (https://www.amazon.com/3311-Silver-A.../dp/B00O9R4K7O), and use the aluminum tape front and back on any seams and to reinforce any holes that you punch for grommets or snaps.

You can fasten the skirt to the motorhome using snaps, Velcro, or even just duct tape (though my preference would be adhesive-backed Velcro). If you're not going to be running the engine, you can use the same Prodex material to cover the grille and enclose the engine compartment, too.

To secure the Prodex to the ground, you can set grommets along the bottom edge and stake it down like a tent. Or if you know you'll be parked on pavement, make the skirt extra-long (buy a wider width) so that a flap of Prodex lies flat on the ground, and add weights on top of the flap. Sandbags would work well enough for that.
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