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Old 10-23-2013, 10:02 PM   #1
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1996 28' Excella
Mobile , Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 50
I don't have air to winterize.

Unfortunately I can't leave my property in the ozarks quite yet.
(it's saposto get down to 31 tomorrow night)

I'm not worried about that tomorrow night as I'll keep the catalytic heater going to keep myself warm.

But.... I'm off the grid. No water, and no power except hauling and solar/geny.

So... It's going to be hard to use compressed air to blow the lines... (I've got a 12 volt air compressor, but don't think that will work.)

I need to stay here a couple more weeks. I can deal with camping dry, (although it will suck not to have the toilet at night) just don't want broken lines.
And unfortunately I can't haul it out to go somewhere local to winterize it at the moment.


Just drain the tanks and run antifreeze through and then drain the pump? Or...?

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Old 10-23-2013, 11:16 PM   #2
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1996 28' Excella
Mobile , Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 50
I think the answer is to buy a compressor and run it off the geny.

Money spent will be better than dealing with broken pipes.

Now I just need to connect reality with the horribly general owners manual.

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Old 10-23-2013, 11:25 PM   #3
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1989 32' Land Yacht
Oakton , Virginia
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Originally Posted by Nomadic1 View Post
I think the answer is to buy a compressor and run it off the geny.

Money spent will be better than dealing with broken pipes.

Now I just need to connect reality with the horribly general owners manual.
Borrow, rent, or buy a compressor--but make sure that the compressor doesn't pull more current in the cold than the generator can supply. Starting a cold compressor takes a huge amount of amps--more amps than the compressor draws while operating.
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Old 10-23-2013, 11:26 PM   #4
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2014 28' Flying Cloud
Snoqualmie , Washington
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Or rent or borrow, if that is an option. As reference, having just bought a compressor, your purchase amount would vary between $60 for a cheap harbor freight unit, to $140 for a Porter Cable 6 gallon pancake kit on Amazon to around $300 for a Rolair or Makita unit (plus another 50 for the kit and hose if not included). The camco adapter to hook up the hose to trailer is about $7.
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Old 10-24-2013, 12:29 AM   #5
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2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio , Texas
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Won't help now, but buy this for next time.
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Old 10-24-2013, 03:48 AM   #6
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2013 30' Classic
Greenwood , Mississippi
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I used a bicycle pump last winter. It is a lot of work, but it will git-r-dun.
I would try that 12 volt compressor out of curiosity. I aired up a flat with a 12 volt compressor. It took an hour, but it got the job done.
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:04 AM   #7

2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
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A roll of duct tape and a shop-vac.

Tape a section of garden hose to the exhaust side, ours came with an adapter, (it's on the top of our Genie) and blow away, empty & clean the vac first.

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"Sticks & stones can break your bones...and hail will dent your Airstream"

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Old 10-24-2013, 06:07 AM   #8
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2006 30' Classic
Wildwood , Missouri
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This cold spell is not welcome
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:12 AM   #9
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Hollis , New Hampshire
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Air pigs are inexpensive and can be filled at your local gas station. They are just a tank of compressed air used for filling tires, inflatables ....
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:32 AM   #10
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If it is merely getting a few degrees below freezing at night and warming up to the 40's and 50's in the day, your pipes will not freeze. It takes a cold snap where temps are in the 20's for 15 or so hours to freeze things up. If you are living in the unit, it will take a longer cold snap to freeze things up as you are supplying heat.
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:43 AM   #11
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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I would get one of these. It won't help you right now but it will help in the future. This has enough power to blow out the lines. Just make sure you don't leave the faucets closed because this guy will over pressure the line but you could put a regulator on the output of it. If the temps are not going to get much below 30 overnight then you don't need to worry, especially if the trailer is heated at night. Open doors to under the sink areas so heat can get in.

Q Industries MV50 SuperFlow High-Volume 12-Volt Air Compressor : : Automotive

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Old 10-24-2013, 07:07 AM   #12
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2005 30' Classic
Burlington , Ontario
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It should be no problem to forget about blowing the lines and just use your 12v pump to fill the lines with antifreeze - it drives out the water of course as you pump it in. Just pump until it runs pink at all your taps and ensure you have some in the traps.

Should easily do it with two gallon size containers of antifreeze if you bypass and drain your HW heater.

As well, I think this approach is more guaranteed to do the job than simply plowing the lines, especially if you don't use a decent sized compressor.

Many people only blow the lines with perfect success - but there is always a chance of a small amount of residual water in the lines pooling and freezing. I think this would be more likely to happen the smaller compressor you use.

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Old 10-24-2013, 08:01 AM   #13
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1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
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We've done antifreeze only for years with no problems.

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Old 10-24-2013, 09:21 AM   #14
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2002 19' Bambi
Northwestern Ontario , - on the backside of the map and just above the big green spot
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Your trailer is a 3-season trailer that is designed to withstand frosty nights during the shoulder-seasons for short periods of time. Obviously your heat needs to be on - but you can give yourself an added degree of security by opening your cabinet doors at night, turning off the water and opening the taps, then ensuring there is a supply of moving air throughout the trailer (the furnace or a small fan will do). If you are worried about exposed drain pipes a couple of straw bales will allow you to keep them insulated from the direct cold.

If the daytime temperatures remain below freezing and you feel it is time to bite the bullet and get the trailer winterized then RV anti-freeze is as simple and effective as you can get.

Good luck,


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