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Old 10-01-2017, 03:22 PM   #1
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How to pump antifreeze in the lines with a 22 FB?

How do you proceed when winterizing your trailer? Do you put a couple of botles of antifreeze in the fresh water tank and pump it into the system? The water pump in our 22 FB (2017) is not easy to access and there is no valve/winterizing hose built in that I can see. Thanks for your advice.
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Old 10-01-2017, 04:05 PM   #2
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If you put antifreeze in the tank, you'll have a devil of a time getting the taste out next spring.

I'm not familiar with the pump arrangement on the 22, so I can't offer any specific suggestion. On my 25FB, I first blow out the lines with an air compressor, then pump AF through. I can access the pump by removing a panel (the back of a lower storage area) that is held in by only two screws.

I guess I have one general suggestion: It seems AS tries to build the cabinetry with no screws showing. If you see any panel that is held in by screws that are visible, take out those screws and see where that gets you.
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Old 10-01-2017, 04:16 PM   #3
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Thanks. So putting AF in the fresh water tank is not the best idea. I know where the pump is in the 22 FB (underneath the closet) but the way it is placed, it seems to be very difficult to unscrew the water inlet to the pump so as to be able to connect a hose. Maybe I am missing something.
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Old 10-01-2017, 04:19 PM   #4
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In terms of taste next Spring, would it make a difference if I would empty the antifreeze from fresh water tank once finished with the process?
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Old 10-01-2017, 04:31 PM   #5
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My best advice would be to hire someone to do it and watch what they do. Airstream has a checklist as well. Here is a link for what you are looking for.
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Old 10-02-2017, 10:57 AM   #6
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3 ways- good better and best:
Good: 4 gallons of antifreeze in fresh water tank and use the pump to get it into all valves and traps.
Better: Remove the inlet to the pump and temporarily install a length of clear tubing to put in the antifreeze jug and use the pump to get antifreeze into the valves and traps. Takes 2 gallons.
Best: Have a winterizing T installed so you just turn a valve, insert clear tubing into jug of antifreeze, and use pump to get antifreeze into the valves and traps. Takes 2 gallons.
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Old 10-02-2017, 11:09 AM   #7
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I have made a detailed checklist for winterizing my 2014, 27ft., Flying Cloud. If you would like a copy email me at: sgraner@aol.com There are some differences with each model, but it covers the basics.
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Old 10-02-2017, 11:25 AM   #8
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My link didn't post!
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Old 10-02-2017, 11:39 AM   #9
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I have a 2015 25'FB. The pump is located behind a panel under the frig and secured with 2 screws. It isn't as convenient as one would think it should be. This is a pretty good YouTube video that I found useful:
It shows the connections you will need which can be purchased at the hardware store.
Other generic YouTube videos are useful in a general way (I'm a visual learner).
Remember to flush out the outside shower if you have one.
I don't have a way to blow out the lines and it has worked fine to just suck the antifreeze out of the jug. If any is left over I put it down the drain and the toilet. 2 gallons has been sufficient.
I would definitely avoid putting any antifreeze in the fresh water tank. Getting it out and removing the taste would be a pain.
Also make sure you locate the bypass valve for the hot water heater otherwise you will fill it up with antifreeze. There is probably an access panel inside the trailer adjacent to the hot water heater. Drain the hot water heater from the outside and post a note to refill it again next spring before you use it. Good luck.
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Old 10-02-2017, 11:46 AM   #10
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I (so far) use only air to the CW connection to winterize. If I'm home I have a Rigid compressor, but I also take a 12V inflator on the road as once I needed to winterize on the road. Once it came in handy. There are lot of threads on air winterization and a post above as I really don't want the AF taste in line that seems to take forever to remove. I also have a checklist I'd be glad to share. Just PM me.

After that last OTR winterization, I installed a camco diverter valve at the pump but also keep a hand pump (in the pump house ) just in case. I fugure you can generally get AF most anywhere in a hurry if needed.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...-pump-kit/4411

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Old 10-02-2017, 01:18 PM   #11
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I used antifreeze in an SOB I had a couple of times. I’m t took a lot of flushing to get rid of the taste and smell. It’s one of those things that just stuck with me and I get a sickly feeling just talking about it.

I switched to compressed air and have never had a problem and can’t imagine ever using antifreeze in the water lines again.
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Old 10-02-2017, 01:43 PM   #12
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I bought my 23D last winter and the dealer had winterized with AF. Took forever to get the tease out of the unit, multiple flushes, bleach, just bad.

This year I will blow out, just ordered all the parts from amazon to blow out and will only use AF on drains.
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Old 10-02-2017, 04:46 PM   #13
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I've always wondered about the City Water connection and valve. Last season, I purchased a hand siphon pump from HD. After blowing the system out, I hand pumped a half gallon in the City connection. Followed up by pumping the rest through the onboard water pump. By the way, I'm one who splashes a bit into the water holding tank too. No more than a quarter of a gallon. Never have had a challenge getting the pink stuff out of the system or tanks.
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Old 10-02-2017, 05:15 PM   #14
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I recommend checking with the dealer. I thought the newer FB22 doesn’t need winterizing. I live in California and I don’t worry about it.
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Old 10-02-2017, 05:19 PM   #15
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Make an appointment at your Airstream dealership and let them know you want to watch the technician winterize your A/S. Then do it again in the spring when you de-winterize. I made appointments for both, took a lot of photos and notes and was able to do it myself after that. You'll find out how much fluid to buy, width of tubing you need, how to disconnect the water pump, what wrench size to use to remove the hot water cap, etc. It's really easy to do once you see it done and then do it yourself, especially if you document it for yourself. A nice sense of accomplishment.
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Old 10-02-2017, 05:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Days View Post
I recommend checking with the dealer. I thought the newer FB22 doesn’t need winterizing. I live in California and I don’t worry about it.


I'm in Canada. I definitely worry about winterizing.

We remove the pump inlet, and inject a couple of gallons of antifreeze. I find this still leaves a lingering taste in the spring, so I definitely wouldn't dump into the fresh tank.

This upcoming weekend is Canadian Thanksgiving, which seems to be the typical winterizing cut-off around these parts. We'll be winterizing on Monday, so if pictures would be of any help, let me know. We have a 2015 Sport 22FB
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Old 10-02-2017, 05:33 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stsammy View Post
I'm in Canada. I definitely worry about winterizing.

We remove the pump inlet, and inject a couple of gallons of antifreeze. I find this still leaves a lingering taste in the spring, so I definitely wouldn't dump into the fresh tank.
After using antifreeze you can blow it all out. There is absolutely no reason to leave it in the lines. This will reduce the flushing needed in the spring and help to reduce the lingering taste. Recover the antifreeze when you blow it out and use it in the p-traps and holding tank(s).
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Old 10-02-2017, 09:21 PM   #18
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I'm a blow it out owner too! First bypass and drain the hot water heater. If you hook up the air to the city water connection and pressurize to 40# then open each valve starting at the one furtherest away it only takes a few minutes. I made a hose with connections that will fit the water pump and the city water line coming to the pump. If you disconnect the water pump lines this allows the suction side to drain back into the fresh water tank. Then you can use the hose on the pressure side to run the pump dry through the hose and down a nearby drain. Then hook the hose up to the city water line coming to the pump and blow that line clear. Next, open all drains and valves, block open the toilet valve open and clamp the hand held sprayers valve open. After a bit all residual water will evaporate.
If you don't have compressed air, open all the valves, drains, hand sprayers and block the toilet valve open, as mentioned above, and leave them open. If valves are left open water cannot collect and freeze. As someone said in another thread PEX will expand 5 time its size before splitting. I would still remove the water pump inlet and outlet fitting so it could drain. Turn it on for a few second with a towel under the outlet to catch the water running out.
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Old 10-02-2017, 09:36 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Days View Post
I recommend checking with the dealer. I thought the newer FB22 doesn’t need winterizing. I live in California and I don’t worry about it.
Hey Happy Days, I'm a CA ex-pat, grew up in Concord and lived for many years in Clayton. I honestly can't remember hard freezes in Concord as a youth, but then again probably wasn't queued into that...snow/ice was for Diablo, on those rare occasions.

However I had to totally rebuild my lawn/etc irrigation system/manifold in Clayton.

Coming back thru Paso this last January, the dashboard was reading 27 degrees and that's a couple hun S of Concord an closer to the ocean.

Winterization with air is easy after they first few times. You may want to loop back with your dealer.

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Old 10-03-2017, 10:05 AM   #20
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Great thread. I'm new . Could someone describe in detail how to go about blowing the system out? I have a 2017 26' FC. Thanks
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