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Old 08-09-2008, 11:52 PM   #1
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How high should it be, 2005 28 Foot Intl- Carport

Hi all,

My head hurts from the geotrigoablgbranomonmy calculations. I want to erect a metal carport for our AS. It is 28 feet long, I want to say 10.5 at the AC. Does any body have experience with this kind of thing? I am off to the Desert in February for Uncle Sam so I want to get it ready to so the Mrs. does not have to worry about it.

We are thinking about Steel but have not ruled out a canvass top. Even wood with Trusses if it isn't too hard.

BLUF: How wide? How high? How long?

I am thinking (Which is always dangerous) 32 feet by 14 feet by 12. Will this work? Anybody have pictures? Dealer recommendations?


John
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Old 08-10-2008, 01:22 AM   #2
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hi john...

that seems like a great sizing IF you've got the room for it...

don't forget to consider backing up and if there is a need to swing or rotate into the space.

free standing or attached to another structure?

there might be a need to slope the roof some given what falls from the sky where u live...

so 13 ft on one side sloping to 11 ft on the other...

or 13 ft center with one foot drop on each side, would give u PLENTY of room.

and don't forget to take pictures!

someone back east (ri'streamn?) posted pics of a metal carport they erected in the back yard...

can't find those pics, but here are 2 other examples that work nicely...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f458...ted-37408.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f458...ort-28161.html

cheers
2air'
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Old 08-10-2008, 09:37 AM   #3
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I don't know about your trailers height.

But my trailer stands 9'8'' to the top of the AC unit. I was thinking about trying to get away with a 10' by 10' garage door opening. Now you have me thinking.
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Old 08-10-2008, 09:38 AM   #4
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if you have the room, you might like to have a longer overhang in the front for those rainy day hook-ups.
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Old 08-10-2008, 10:24 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richinny View Post
if you have the room, you might like to have a longer overhang in the front for those rainy day hook-ups.

We do have room, we have a long yard, at the end of the driveway, it is a straight shot.

In it's place right now is a shed, we are going to move the shed to the other side of the yard and back the AS about 25 feet.

If we put up a semi permanent awning, we have to be able to get a vehicle into the yard, gravel, septic tank, landscaping. That kind of thing.

The fun part about this project is the back of our yard was uneven, big piles of ground mulch, rocks and junk. I found you that they will rent anything to anybody, can you say Bulldozer? Actually, it was BOB CAT but in a day for 300 bucks, I a months worth of back breaking work done. So I am happy. The wood frame is going to hold gravel and serve as a template for where the shed should go. Once the Mrs. Blesses the spot...Thats it!

Next step is build the frame, set it in the back yard, fill with gravel and move the shed on rollers.

Then we can build our AS hut. We are looking at the quarter length awnings. Green of course since we live in Washington State. The are metal legs, like a skeleton with Metal Sheeting. Some of them look pretty good. We are trying not to have an airplane hanger.

I will keep you posted. Any thoughts or pics would be so helpful.
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Old 08-10-2008, 10:29 PM   #6
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Here is an example, just not the right size.

Does this make sense? I am just not sure what the dimensions should be.
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Old 08-10-2008, 11:42 PM   #7
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Quote
I am thinking (Which is always dangerous) 32 feet long
by 14 feet wide
by 12 feet high. Will this work? Anybody have pictures? Dealer recommendations?
Unquote

Since your yard is flat-flat you can get by with a 10' high door/shed.
BUT
You could not pour a concrete floor later, it would take up your free air space.

The airconditioning unit is 9'8" above ground or so.
So a 10' high door is just OK.
If you had to deal with an uphill or downhill driveway it would be different.
As far as width, 10 foot seams wide, until you try to back into it.
11' 4" is a much better width, that is 12' rafters with 4x4 posts.
And be very carefull where the posts get spaced on the curb side,
you still need to open the door of the rig. Or do the 14' wide, no problem.

So yes, 14' wide by 12' high by 32' long is good, and it will keep the moss off.
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Old 08-10-2008, 11:58 PM   #8
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well since there's plenty o'room...

a double wide space would allow for guest parking!

cheers
2air'
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Old 08-11-2008, 12:18 AM   #9
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Hi John,
This is what we did for our 25' Safari:
Building:14'8"x30'
Ceiling: 10'3"
Door: 12'3"x10'
A door on the side opens directly to the A/S door for easy access. There's ample space to store all the extras at the back, which makes it easy to see what we've forgotten once we load up.
Best of luck! Looks like you have a great spot for whatever you end up with.
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Old 08-11-2008, 02:31 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnerges View Post
Hi all,

My head hurts from the geotrigoablgbranomonmy calculations. I want to erect a metal carport for our AS. It is 28 feet long, I want to say 10.5 at the AC. Does any body have experience with this kind of thing? I am off to the Desert in February for Uncle Sam so I want to get it ready to so the Mrs. does not have to worry about it.

We are thinking about Steel but have not ruled out a canvass top. Even wood with Trusses if it isn't too hard.

BLUF: How wide? How high? How long?

I am thinking (Which is always dangerous) 32 feet by 14 feet by 12. Will this work? Anybody have pictures? Dealer recommendations?


John
Hi John; We own a 26' Arg which we store in the boat yard at our business. Yesterday we had a possibility of large hail, so we had to scramble to make room in the shop and move it indoors. Originally we wanted to buy a carport, but looking at some they do not appeal to me that much. I have plenty of Stainless Steel square tubing left so I am thinking of building my own shelter for the Arg. Have access to cheap cost wise 5' X 10' powder coated 0.32" aluminum panels. I would consider making it 30' long and 12' wide. My Arg with a low profile Carrier atop is at 9'6" high. Twelve feet height at the peak of the shelter should allow me sufficient drop to 10' at the sides. I would bend three sheets down the middle at 30 degree and add three sheets per each side lengthwise. To obtain a 30 degree slope in the roof I will only use up about six extra inches of panel to achieve it. I own a massive 10' brake, so this should be very simple. I intend to arrange panels in a shingle effect and connect them length wise by bending the short ends of the panels at 90 degrees to a 1/4" height and butting them at the center of the roof truss. The joints would be covered by "C" trim and sealed with 3M 5200. Sealed aluminum rivets will attach panels to the trusses. If need be I will add 2.5' wide panels on each side for more protection. There is only one catch at this point, TIME!. I will have to wait until my boat business slow down. It is bad enough that I have stolen time from my business to finish my Arg. thanks to which we get to go camping. Thanks, "Boatdoc"
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Old 08-11-2008, 12:20 PM   #11
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The next step in making and AS port...

Put up RV awning:

Step one, move the shed

No, step one is empty the shed,

No, wait, Step one is make a platform for the stone,

No, wait, step one is rent a bulldozer.


I wonder if I should be doing this?

here is the frame, I am going to have some 3/4 stone plunked down for drainage. It was fun moving the form, it involved a hand truck and plastic tupperware lids. The thing slid pretty good.

John
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