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Old 10-09-2006, 08:25 PM   #1
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1972 27' Overlander
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Exclamation Help with winterizing

So I'm a new airstreme owner and just went to winterize, but fear I may have been too late. When I opened the valves in the trunk, apparently all the water leaked into the undercarriage instead of out the drain valve in the rear. What do I do now??!?!?

I've attached pics of the valves, the rear seam where the water leaked, and the front seam where it also leaked (the trailer wasn't level at the time).

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Old 10-09-2006, 08:53 PM   #2
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to Late?

I cant beleive your to late, BUT You can always turn on the furnace to keep things warm while your winterizing. I am not sure about water leaking in to the pan???? suck it out with a shop vac or drill a small hole under it once it drains Caulk it I guess. I have never heard of this
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Old 10-09-2006, 10:02 PM   #3
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All Is Well

Not to worry. When you drain the tank on your vintage it hits the belly first and just drains out. If you're not filling the lines as some recommend. Open all the faucets and all the valves - trunk and under the galley - jack the trailer up as high as the jack will allow and let her drain to the rear. Lower the trailer as much as possible in the front and do the same. Turn the belt on the water pump a few turns to clear it. Dump antifreeze in the sink openings and the tub and bath sink. Don't forget to drain the shower head and your hot water tank. Step down on the toilet and put a pop bottle in the opening to hold it open. Your good to go for winter.
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Old 10-09-2006, 10:20 PM   #4
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Phew

You are a relief Ganglin. I can't find anything in my manual about how to drain the hot water tank. I don't see any type of valve around it. When I turned the valves in the trunk, what exactly did that dump as opposed to the valves in the front? Also, the manual mentions putting compressed air in the lines to blow them out. Where do I blow into?
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Old 10-09-2006, 10:46 PM   #5
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You can buy an air hose fitting that screws into your shore water connection. I got mine at Wal-Mart for a couple off dollars. Open the drain valves connect the air hose (tire valve connection). You should, of course, have drained as much of all the water from the system first. The compressed air should evacuate most of what is left...even the hot water tank.
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Old 10-09-2006, 10:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snpotratz
You are a relief Ganglin. I can't find anything in my manual about how to drain the hot water tank. I don't see any type of valve around it. When I turned the valves in the trunk, what exactly did that dump as opposed to the valves in the front? Also, the manual mentions putting compressed air in the lines to blow them out. Where do I blow into?
Your hot water heater has a drain plug. Remove it and open the relief valve to provide a vent path. The hot water heater will drain. It's good to do this anyway to get all the calcium and magnesium out that has collected in the bottom of the tank.
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Old 10-10-2006, 10:41 AM   #7
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Where is it?

Where do I find the drain plug on the water heater?
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Old 10-10-2006, 09:02 PM   #8
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The drain plug for the water heater is in the street side access panel at the rear of the trailer -on the outside of the trailer - open the access door - you'll see what looks like a T sticking out at you with a hole in the top of the T. Turn that counter clockwise and the tank will drain.

If you use air pressure to blow out the lines get the fitting recommended above. Drain the lines and turn the trailer water pump first - as above. Close all the valves/spigots and the hot water tank drain. Don't have the pop bottle in the toilet yet. Make sure the switch on the shower head is open but the tub knob is closed. Drop the shower head down into the tub so it will drain. Make sure the shut off valve to the toilet is open.

Hook up an electric air pump to the fitting on the incoming water line and let the pressure build to 40 PSI - don't let it go above 50 PSI. A helper is good at this point. Systematically open the the spigots in the bath and galley as well as stepping on the toilet release one at a time- do each twice for safety - or until you see no more water being released.

Remember that Airstream season will be here again soon and smile...
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Old 10-11-2006, 04:48 AM   #9
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Don't forget the toilet sprayer and put anti freeze or windshield washer down all the traps.
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Old 10-11-2006, 06:09 AM   #10
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this thread may help. pictures too!

http://www.airforums.com/forum...eeze-7222.html

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Old 10-11-2006, 06:14 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ganglin
...Step down on the toilet and put a pop bottle in the opening to hold it open. Your good to go for winter.
Why does the toilet valve need to be kept open?
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Old 10-11-2006, 08:29 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yukionna
Why does the toilet valve need to be kept open?
I was told so water left in the valve seat won't freeze and damage it. Vern told me that when I bought my trailer. I crush a soda can and attach string to it tied off somewhere so the can won't fall into the black tank.
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Old 10-11-2006, 11:02 AM   #13
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My '74 owners manual detailed the winterizing process as follows:

Open the forward hot/cold drains and lower the hitch jack until water stops draining. Open the aft hot/cold drains and raise the hitch all the way up until water stops draining. Repeat as necessary. This is a good recipe for broken copper pipe. I went to install a few new plumbing fixtures and the new copper bushings, ferrels and other components wouldn't fit because the outside diameter of the copper piping and tubing had expanded.
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Old 10-11-2006, 06:05 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobandcarla
I was told so water left in the valve seat won't freeze and damage it. Vern told me that when I bought my trailer. I crush a soda can and attach string to it tied off somewhere so the can won't fall into the black tank.
I flush all systems with the antifreeze so nothing has water in it any longer. I guess I've never had a problem keeping my valves closed because the antifreeze doesn't freeze.
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