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Old 10-11-2006, 10:06 PM   #15
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I think I found the "T", but....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ganglin
The drain plug for the water heater is in the street side access panel at the rear of the trailer -on the outside of the trailer - open the access door - you'll see what looks like a T sticking out at you with a hole in the top of the T. Turn that counter clockwise and the tank will drain.
Where does the water come out? Is it going to drain into the access panel or is there some out-spout (like that word?) underneath that I am not seeing?

And it appears rusted a bit...WD40 to loosen it?
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Old 10-13-2006, 10:13 PM   #16
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The valve may be rusted a bit - just turn it with a set of pliers to the left. The water will run out of that valve - it will drain all over the place - that's OK. Spray the threads down with some silicone spray lubricant so it will be easier next year.

Steve your nearly as anal as I am - I like you already. Look at the posts above - there are two schools of thought that are both correct. Just do what A/S advised and a little more by using air to blow out the lines. Or, go all the way, cut a siphon line into your plumbing and go with the expense of filling all the lines with antifreeze.

I'm new to A/S but not new to trailers. If you need more help feel free to call me at 614-205-2925. Beyond that, there are people here that are trailer experts - please keep asking questions - you will get the help you need.
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Old 10-14-2006, 02:17 AM   #17
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Blowin' 'em out....!

Hello all -

If you already have that air compressor sitting in the garage, then you likely have all, or nearly all, the parts needed for the "Blowin' 'em out" adaptor that fits into the City Water inlet. Just get that garden hose repair male fitting, add a few adaptors with a bit 'o plumbers tape and you are a water pipe blow out maniac!!! Seriously, using the around the garage stuff is great - and it frees up room for you to put MORE STUFF!!!! How cool is that. A 2-fer!

But serioulsy, blowing the lines out - really well! is terrific. Then add the anti-freeze to the drains and likely freeze spots and the like - Boom, finished. All will be well with your AS world.

Two fresh water flushes in the spring and you are off goin camping with no split pipe worries!

Enjoy!

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Old 10-14-2006, 10:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ganglin
Steve your nearly as anal as I am - I like you already.
I got a great laugh out of this Ganglin, thanks! I guess Anal retentiveness and newbie paranoia don't make a great combo do they? Here I was freaking out about the water and hardly any came out. I guess there wasn't much in there to worry about.

Thanks for all the help folks!
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Old 10-15-2006, 01:04 AM   #19
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We are planning on doing the air compressor "line blow out" this year and I was wondering why is antifreeze (AF) needed in the lines after you blow them out? It seems like over kill. I understand I will need to add AF in the traps after the blow out. What about the water displaced from the traps after adding AF -- do I have to blow out a second time to remove additional water in lines after filling traps with AF?

Will it hurt the black and/or gray tanks if some water is left in them or should both tanks be completely drained dry?
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Old 10-15-2006, 08:08 AM   #20
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I wouldn't bother with blowing out. It won't get all the water out, no matter how much you do it. and it doesn't get water out of the pump at all. the only way to truly displace all the water in both the pump, and the lines, is to pump another liquid through the entire system...antifreeze.

the drain lines aren't a problem; they all slope adequately to the tanks. there aren't any little crevices and crannies in there, like in the pump. empty the tanks; then pump antifreeze through...whatever winds up in the tanks after this procedure is mostly antifreeze, so it won't cause any problem being in the tanks.

when I did the "blow-out-only" method a couple of years ago, I had a damaged pump to repair in the spring.
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Old 10-15-2006, 08:59 AM   #21
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If you're going the anti-freeze method, blowing the lines may be overkill. I do it because it's very easy to connect the compressor to the blow out fitting and get 98% of the water out. When the anti-freeze appears out each faucet, it's very pink and I'm not concerned about dilution. After all lines are filled with the pink, then I put windshield washer fluid in the traps because it's only 99 cents/gallon. It was 25 degrees yesterday morning, but I'm still hoping to make it out one more time before going pink.
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Old 10-15-2006, 09:15 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
I wouldn't bother with blowing out. It won't get all the water out, no matter how much you do it. and it doesn't get water out of the pump at all. the only way to truly displace all the water in both the pump, and the lines, is to pump another liquid through the entire system...antifreeze.

the drain lines aren't a problem; they all slope adequately to the tanks. there aren't any little crevices and crannies in there, like in the pump. empty the tanks; then pump antifreeze through...whatever winds up in the tanks after this procedure is mostly antifreeze, so it won't cause any problem being in the tanks.

when I did the "blow-out-only" method a couple of years ago, I had a damaged pump to repair in the spring.
I just finished winterizing our Bambi for the first time by following the directions in our Airstream owners manual, essentially the same procedure as described in john hd's post:
http://www.airforums.com/forum...eeze-7222.html
If you could be certain that all water was removed from the pump, valves, and fresh water lines, then anti-freeze is not required. But I found even repeated blow out cycles using a high capacity air compressor set at 60 psi failed to remove all water.
Airstream recommends using anti-freeze for added protection. I wouldn't, however, skip blow-out step. I suppose that the blow step could be skipped if you flush enough anti-freeze through the lines to be certain that it hasn't been diluted by water in the lines. But air is cheaper than anti-freeze and performing both steps seems like the best insurance against freeze problems.
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Old 10-15-2006, 07:46 PM   #23
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Mea Culpa

Some say that it takes a big man to admit his mistakes. I think it just takes a village idiot that's willing to learn.

Winterized today using the A/S method I posted above. Trying to be a purist as a relative newbie - if A/S says so in the manual....

I will never do this again. Does it work - yes. Is it a total pain - YES.

Did the up/down drainage and then blew the lines out with a high volume air pump (on sale a Pep Boys this week by the way). Over and over again with the faucets still blowing water mist on each release of air pressure. Will go with this - for this season only.

Next summer a new valve will be added to siphon antifreeze into the pump and into the all the lines.

Steve, glad you enjoyed the anal comment - looks like we are on the same plane. Please use lots of air on your lines.
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Old 10-16-2006, 06:19 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ganglin

I will never do this again. Does it work - yes. Is it a total pain - YES.
Actually the PAIN part for me is in the Spring when I have to flush - flush -flush and then flush - flush - flush to get rid of all the AF.

When I winterize, I actually pour the AF into my fresh water tank and then use the pump to push it through the whole system hence I use more AF than I would have to with John HD system. Next year we will look into to installing that special valve.
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Old 10-16-2006, 08:56 AM   #25
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thats the problem: putting AF into the fresh tank. Its really really hard to get it out. if its only in the lines, it flushes out quickly.

why wait to get the winterizing valve? do it now, there's plenty of time.

you don't actually "neeeeed" this kit, anyway. its handy, but you can accomplish the same thing by disconnecting the pump's intake line from tank, and sticking that directly into the jug of antifreeze. a temporary piece of 1/2 braided tubing with a hose barb can be used...depends on the relative inaccessibility of the existing connections. whichever way is easiest.

It might be a PITA, but not nearly as much as trying to flush AF out of the fresh tank in the spring.
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Old 10-16-2006, 10:50 AM   #26
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Get a submersible pump. Put pump in bucket with hose attached from pump to city water connection. Pour AF in bucket. Start pump and open faucets. Only area of concern would be upstream of water pump check valve. I've used this method at the 11th hour when I didn't have the patience to disconnect the pump inlet and connect my adapter. The water pump was soooo buried under the cabinet.
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Old 10-16-2006, 02:53 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peegreen
Get a submersible pump. Put pump in bucket with hose attached from pump to city water connection. Pour AF in bucket. Start pump and open faucets. Only area of concern would be upstream of water pump check valve. I've used this method at the 11th hour when I didn't have the patience to disconnect the pump inlet and connect my adapter. The water pump was soooo buried under the cabinet.
now that is a good idea! i have seen some water pumps buried so far back in cabinets that getting to them is impossible without removing the oven.

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Old 10-16-2006, 03:52 PM   #28
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Well I lucked out today..I went to do a final check on my pump for parts that I was going to need and found a three way valve already installed!! I have spent so much time reading on winterizing that I overlooked the obvious..what a Bonehead!! All I had to do was buy the 1/2" clear hose and plastic insert that screwed onto the 3 way valve and I was done. Blew out the lines with a little help from my son and bingo we had 3 gallons of antifreeze in the lines.

OK so I was lazy about getting the filter cap and just wanted to get this done so I pumped through my water filter..I have to get a new one in the spring anyway...Question...Does it purify the antifreeze coming out of that system cause I could not get any pink to come through..only what looked like clear water..is this going to be a problem?
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