Getting ready for the freeze-Winterize

[GettinAway]

Originally Posted by golfarch

John:
What does the first photo indicate? In the second photo, is the valve the mustard color item that is parallel to the pipe located on the floor? Finally, is the 'Winterized' graphic located on the water heater Styrofoam?
Thanks,

I used to have a Bambi with the corner bed. If I'm not mistaken, that first photo shows the holes in the bed support you reach thru to close the valves, which bypasses the hot water heater.. I could be wrong, but that's what I think the picture is suggesting.

[DreamsInSlvr]

Hey there,
The first picture is of my 2013 International 23D with a view of the bed platform.(rear left) The bottom hole cutout allows access to the hot water tank by pass valve and the other hole cutout above it--closest to the rear allows access into the storage compartment which houses the low point hot/cold water valves. As I said, in reviewing the my factory manual, it was not at all clear how to access the necessary valves to winterize! I hope this helps and good luck. Let me know if I can help. I am in western NY and winterized last October keeping my AS next to my house and plugged in frequently to keep batteries in good shape and prevent freezing.

[DreamsInSlvr]

Originally Posted by golfarch

John:
What does the first photo indicate? In the second photo, is the valve the mustard color item that is parallel to the pipe located on the floor? Finally, is the 'Winterized' graphic located on the water heater Styrofoam?
Thanks,

You are correct in your assessment of the second photo. When you are ready to winterize, simply empty your hot water tank, then turn the yellow handled valve so it is perpendicular to the water line, effectively isolating the hot water tank from anti-freeze if you are filling your lines.

[jdcamp]

Great information but still have a couple of questions --

1. Is it necessary to blow out everything with air? What about draining everything as much as possile, bypassing the hot water heater, and then drawing antifreeze through the system until you see pink coming out of all faucets. Then add antifreeze to all traps.

2. Is there any reason not to leave the gray and black water valves open after draining and flushing just let any residual out?

Thanks for any input.

[jdcamp]

Great tutorial John. I am new to the winterizing process and have a 2007 Safari 25. I can get to the pump but it is tight and not really very accessible. Camco also makes a hand pump device where you pump antifreeze into the lines from the city water intake on the outside of the trailer. It takes two people with one pumping while the other is opening faucets until pink runs out. Is there any reason why this wouldn't work? I presume that the pump is running while you are doing this so that you get antifreeze though the pump. Does that sound right? Would appreciate any input on this method. Also, the Camco video with another model RV does not show them blowing out the lines with air just draining, bypassing the hot water heater, and then filling the lines with antifreeze. Are Airstreams any different in terms of having to blow out the lines with air. Thanks.

jd

[polarlyse]

I do the drain and blow method with good results. Lots of people pump the antifreeze through and are happy with that method too so it's pretty much your choice. If you have an air compressor available you have a choice to make on which way to go but both work well. In either method don't forget to add antifreeze to the drain traps and throne bowl to keep the seals lubricated. If you have a black tank flush I suggest blowing that one too. I don't think there is any way to pump antifreeze through it though.

PS: If you have a water filter in the system I recommend removing it and plan to replace it after pumping pink stuff through it. I have a whole house filter and replace it each spring anyhow.

[jdcamp]

Thanks, I have a compressor and may blow the lines out and pump antifreeze through just to be on the safe side.

[SteveSueMac]

I've finally read this entire thread. Thanks for the wisdom.

A few remaining questions:

1) I have a Viair 12v compressor. It's not like your garage type compressor - you can't set it at X psi you just use the gage as it's filling the tire. Would that work for blowing out the lines or could it be too much?

2) when used for camping, we'll put a few gallons of water (and a pack) in the blank tank after flushing it out. I'm assuming after our last trip of the season, we don't want to do that. Rather, once flushed out, we want to leave it dry and only run some pink stuff in when winterizing (and out some in the bowl too) - is that correct?

3) didn't see one on YouTube but has anyone done a video of all this - including installing the kit for the pump (hopefully in a 2012 27FB Flying Cloud) ? :-D

Thanks!

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

I've finally read this entire thread. Thanks for the wisdom.

A few remaining questions:

1) I have a Viair 12v compressor. It's not like your garage type compressor - you can't set it at X psi you just use the gage as it's filling the tire. Would that work for blowing out the lines or could it be too much?

2) when used for camping, we'll put a few gallons of water (and a pack) in the blank tank after flushing it out. I'm assuming after our last trip of the season, we don't want to do that. Rather, once flushed out, we want to leave it dry and only run some pink stuff in when winterizing (and out some in the bowl too) - is that correct?

3) didn't see one on YouTube but has anyone done a video of all this - including installing the kit for the pump (hopefully in a 2012 27FB Flying Cloud) ? :-D

Thanks!

Is it wrong to quote myself as a bump?

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

1) I have a Viair 12v compressor. It's not like your garage type compressor - you can't set it at X psi you just use the gage as it's filling the tire. Would that work for blowing out the lines or could it be too much?

Your freshwater system should be capable of withstanding at least 45psig, since that's about the pressure it withstands when you're hooked up to municipal water. As long as your gauge doesn't show higher, you should be okay— and as long as the faucets are open, it never will show higher, because you've left a path for the air to escape.

2) when used for camping, we'll put a few gallons of water (and a pack) in the blank tank after flushing it out. I'm assuming after our last trip of the season, we don't want to do that. Rather, once flushed out, we want to leave it dry and only run some pink stuff in when winterizing (and out some in the bowl too) - is that correct?

Exactly so. Toilet chemicals mixed with RV antifreeze yields a slimy mess best described as "goop." Add RV antifreeze to keep the valve seals moist; do not add water or other chemicals.

[SteveSueMac]

Thanks Protagonist! Much appreciated!

[bambisport]

This is great thx!😎

[LucaBluPlus2]

A how-to link from the motherland should help...

http://www.airstream.com/wp-content/...terization.pdf

[1965 mustang]

Do you put the hot water heater plug back in or leave it out for storage?


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by 1965 mustang

Do you put the hot water heater plug back in or leave it out for storage?

I put it back in, to keep bugs and dirt out.

[1965 mustang]

I got my stuff at Menards.


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[featherbedder]

I do not leave dump valves open in winter after I finish for season. Leaving black tanck valve open will dry up any residue left causing problems after awhile, poor a little pink in both tanks will help lube valves & seals after a while valves become hard to open & close, this the reason I do this. Before pink was invented & I winterized I blew every thing out never had prob. Now I don't winterize as heated machine shed.

[M. Smith]

Does anyone know where the water heater by pass valves are in a 25FC rear bedroom? My manual is no help -- has every model but the 25 RB. Have looked under the lounge, by the water pump, under the bathroom lavatory. They have to be somewhere! Failed to winterize properly last year and ended up replacing toilet valve and sink faucet. Would like to avoid the problem this year.

[M. Smith]

Never mind. Emailed Airstream Customer support and found it. Only one valve on the water heater.

[Adiredneck]

I'm trying to winterize my new 2014 27FB Classic (since it seems that winter is coming to Mississippi a tad *early* this year). I read this and other threads and decided the blow-out with air compressor and injecting A/F via the pump bypass sounded like a great plan. So, today I went out and did a recon on the pump location. There is a lift-out trap door in the bottom of the closet, but it doesn't give very good access or enough room to get in there and work on installing the pump bypass valve/siphon. There were 3 horizontal screws on each side of the floor, and three vertical across the front of the closet floor. After removing all of these, it seems like the floor is still connected in the back - I can't get it to lift. Are there "secret squirrel" screws holding in the rear of the floor; and, if so, how the heck do I get them so I can lift the floor?