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Old 10-12-2003, 12:40 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by overlander76
I removed my three way valve this summer after discovering that is was leaking air into the pump when the pump kicked on. It workes great for winterizing though. If I hadn't had the clear tubing I would have never known. Has anyone else had this problem?

If a had a few Millers the problem would probably work itself out.

Brian
the cap on the valve has a o ring on it. this should prevent air from entering the pump.

i'll have to report back if it presents any problems.

if it does, it would take about a min. (one beer) to remove it!

john
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Old 10-13-2003, 10:10 AM   #30
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Ok, what's the suggestion for those of us with the original electric hot water heater and no known drain? Will I screw it up if I blow it out and just add a gallon of antifreeze rather than filling the whole thing up?

Nice job John!
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Old 10-13-2003, 11:01 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jabba
Ok, what's the suggestion for those of us with the original electric hot water heater and no known drain? Will I screw it up if I blow it out and just add a gallon of antifreeze rather than filling the whole thing up?

Nice job John!
jason,

hard to believe your water heater lacks a drain!

blowing it out then filling it sounds like a good option.

what did the p.o. do when winterizing? perhaps you could remove the lowest line feeding it and drain it that way.

john
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Old 10-13-2003, 11:11 AM   #32
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I wish I knew what the P.O. did. Quite a few mysteries to be solved, especially on the auxilliary heater wiring (another thread). I haven't looked at the heater since early summer, but I believe both the inlet and outlet are towards the top, it is weird. Problem with draining it is the heater is under the bunk and has no outside access door on that side. I'm going to open that side up and investigate tonight. Another question, does anyone add antifreeze to the blackwater tank to keep what fluid is remaining in there from freezing? I apologize for being such a rookie on these questions, it's my first rig!
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Old 10-13-2003, 11:22 AM   #33
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Most RV antifreeze isn't meant to be diluted. When done so in a tank with remaining water, it offers very little freeze protection. I don't put ANY in the fresh water tank, because it will take forever to get the taste out. I drain it as much as possible and don't worry about the water remaining in the bottom.

I DO redrain my grey water tank after flushing all the water out of the lines. I make sure it gets some antifreeze by being generous with it when filling the sinks and shower trap. I also pour some down the toilet into the black tank. These are both done to make sure there's some down next to the valves to lubricate them.

The Atwood WH have a drain, but on the Suburban, the anode has to be removed to drain it. It's a good idea to check the anode annually anyway.
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Old 10-13-2003, 02:14 PM   #34
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Thank you John!!!

This is great info for all of us and it can save us big bucks, $150-200 for winterizing at the dealer here!

Is this method OK for our new unit, 25'CCD? Any variations?Please advise.

If yes I'll go out and get two 6 packs! ...we're newbies and we'll sure take longer than 10 min...

Thanks!
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Old 10-13-2003, 03:17 PM   #35
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Is this method OK for our new unit, 25'CCD? Any variations?Please advise

kimili

can't imagine your new one would be any differant than mine. the valve locations might be in another place.

but everything should be the same.

anyone with a newer trailer can jump in here if i am wrong!

john
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Old 10-13-2003, 04:26 PM   #36
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On mine, the two low point drains look like automobile radiator petcocks and are outside, underneath the trailer, on the street side. Besides the three water heater bypass valves, there's one that controls whether or not pumped water from the tank can get to the outside spigot. Leave that open. And I think there's yet another, but I can't remember... it's been a year
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Old 10-13-2003, 06:40 PM   #37
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Wink Winterize

Lived in the Chicago area for years. Would winterize my RV in fall, then decide to take a trip late Oct. to Wis., winterize again, take a Nov. trip to Fla., winterize again.Found a better solution: I moved to Florida. I sure dont miss that winterizing......... although I am still in the habit of putting on fat in preparation of the winter season.
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Old 10-13-2003, 07:01 PM   #38
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OK, I checked our hot water heater out, it has an upper and a lower fitting, but still nowhere to drain. P.O. put the low point drain on the upper line (???!!!) and nothing for the lower line (which is the inlet side and tees to the city water fitting above it). Looks like it's time to add a floor penetration and valve to drain it.
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Old 10-13-2003, 07:15 PM   #39
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Now, I'm guessing my soon to be had AS International manual will have an exhaustive chapter on winterizing procedures along with detailed photos and step by step descritptions. Right?
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Old 10-14-2003, 12:49 PM   #40
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Quote:
Now, I'm guessing my soon to be had AS International manual will have an exhaustive chapter on winterizing procedures along with detailed photos and step by step descritptions. Right?
...keeep dreaming!

The chapter is not that great. John's posts here are 100% better than the manual.

Again thanks John!
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Old 10-14-2003, 01:17 PM   #41
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Agreed. Doing a search on the word winterizing will also get you a lot more info to go with that section.
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Old 10-20-2005, 03:33 PM   #42
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Water heater question

Quote:
Originally Posted by john hd
the water heater
John -

Used your VERY helful pictorial to winterize SilverToy this first time. Using your photos as inspiration, I even installed the winterizing kit from Camco. Much easier than I made it out to be before I started. Thanks for that!

As I mentioned elsewhere I did have a problem with the waterheater as the drain plug twisted off with no threads to grab or anything. Took a small screwdriver and gently tapped two 'runs' into the plug from inside, then twisted out the section from between the runs, then collapsed the remainder of the plug. Out it came. Did mangle the aluminum threads on 2 places though.

Since that is aluminum I should be able to get a peice of pipe with the same threads to clean it up before a plug is added again, right? Please correct me if I am wrong on this.

Also, while I was at it I looked over the gas regulator on the water heater. There is a "hole" in front of the 'rusted' set screw, to the right of the raised portion - all looking at photo #5 of your photo pictorial. This "hole" on mine was full of something brown/black. Is this some of that famous mud dauber nest stuff? What should be there? Is that a breather hole for the regulator?

Thanks!

Axel
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