Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-04-2014, 04:18 PM   #337
Rivet Master
 
1976 31' Sovereign
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,327
Blog Entries: 1
I do not leave dump valves open in winter after I finish for season. Leaving black tanck valve open will dry up any residue left causing problems after awhile, poor a little pink in both tanks will help lube valves & seals after a while valves become hard to open & close, this the reason I do this. Before pink was invented & I winterized I blew every thing out never had prob. Now I don't winterize as heated machine shed.
__________________

__________________
featherbedder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2014, 09:09 AM   #338
2 Rivet Member
 
M. Smith's Avatar
 
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Tuttle , Oklahoma
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 41
Does anyone know where the water heater by pass valves are in a 25FC rear bedroom? My manual is no help -- has every model but the 25 RB. Have looked under the lounge, by the water pump, under the bathroom lavatory. They have to be somewhere! Failed to winterize properly last year and ended up replacing toilet valve and sink faucet. Would like to avoid the problem this year.
__________________

__________________
M. Smith is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2014, 02:18 PM   #339
2 Rivet Member
 
M. Smith's Avatar
 
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Tuttle , Oklahoma
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 41
Never mind. Emailed Airstream Customer support and found it. Only one valve on the water heater.
__________________
M. Smith is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2014, 05:17 PM   #340
3 Rivet Member
 
Adiredneck's Avatar
 
2014 27' FB Classic
Vicksburg , Mississippi
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 245
Images: 4
I'm trying to winterize my new 2014 27FB Classic (since it seems that winter is coming to Mississippi a tad *early* this year). I read this and other threads and decided the blow-out with air compressor and injecting A/F via the pump bypass sounded like a great plan. So, today I went out and did a recon on the pump location. There is a lift-out trap door in the bottom of the closet, but it doesn't give very good access or enough room to get in there and work on installing the pump bypass valve/siphon. There were 3 horizontal screws on each side of the floor, and three vertical across the front of the closet floor. After removing all of these, it seems like the floor is still connected in the back - I can't get it to lift. Are there "secret squirrel" screws holding in the rear of the floor; and, if so, how the heck do I get them so I can lift the floor?
__________________
"Hot meals, cold beer, dry bed & flush toilet - everything I look for in a wilderness experience..."
Adiredneck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2014, 12:20 PM   #341
Rivet Master
 
urnmor's Avatar
 
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Berlin , Maryland
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,220
One quick question on winterizing our 2012 FB Flying Cloud.

There is a small hose protruding from under the AS by the back access door. I believe I had closed the handle on the pipe on the inside of the access door and when I was adding antifreeze I notice the antifreeze coming out of it. Is that suppose to happen? It did not when I turnt the small the handle the other way on the pipe that is inside the access door.

Also do you leave the fresh water drain open or closed for the winter?

Thanks
John
__________________
urnmor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2014, 11:49 AM   #342
2 Rivet Member
 
2012 23' FB Flying Cloud
Havertown , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 20
Unhappy Winterizing , need a bit more info....

Hi Everyone,--I am definitely a "Newbie"---having just purchased a slightly used 2012 Flying Cloud 23FB from a dealer in the FL panhandle.----Travelled back up to Phila, PA where she resides in my side yard.
I am getting familiar with all the postings on the forum & youtube & have drained the system by opening up 2 lower underneath petcocks, & took plastic drain off hot water heater & opened the relief valve.---I opened sink & shower faucets at same time.--now it is time to "blow out" remaining water.
Here are some Q's:
1) what to do after I take off the internal water filter.
2) while at process & all valves are open, should I run hose thru system & reflush all tanks. They were all empty at last stop (gray & black.
3) I have DVD in DVD player & batteries are on, lights come on, but DVD does not.--I suppose I need electric?--I do not have a 20 amp converter plug (yet) --is that all I need?
4) And I guess I need 4 gallons of RV antifreeze & tubing /valve kit--where to buy?--Amazon?
__________________
schafman46 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2014, 05:49 PM   #343
retired USA/USAF

 
2001 30' Excella
Somerset , New Jersey
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,156
You only need that much RVAF if that's the method you have chosen to winterize. Some of us simply blow the water from the lines using compressed air and then add the AF to the traps and toilet. Only if you choose to pump the AF through the system will you need the tubing and valve kit. For what it's worth I just blow the lines on my trailer. To answer your electrical question you are correct. You will need the 20a plug adapter to plug your trailer in. You will get no 120v power ( unless you have an onboard inverter) without it. I suggest that you do not attempt to run your AC or heat pump ( if equipped) unless you have 30a of service. All other functions of your trailer should work just fine.
If you choose to pump the antifreeze through you should remove your onboard water filter(s) with the intent of putting new filters in come spring. It is not recommended to run the AF through the filters if you plan to use them. Get the new ones now and have them ready to install. I have a whole house filter on mine and remove it after the winterization process and will install a new one come our winter travels. I have read that opening the low point drains will fully evacuate the water from the system but I choose to use an air compressor. Don't forget to blow the black tank flush also. I forgot to do mine yesterday so will need to get it done. OH, and don't forget the exterior shower if equipped. Not rocket science but a simple step-by-step process.
__________________
Roger in NJ

" Democracy is the worst form of government. Except for all the rest"
Winston Churchill 1948

TAC - NJ 18

polarlyse is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2014, 07:23 PM   #344
Retired Moderator
 
john hd's Avatar
 
1992 29' Excella
madison , Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,644
Images: 40
Hey All,

Happy to see this thread still kicking around 11 years later!

Take care!

john
__________________
you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
john hd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2015, 01:19 PM   #345
1 Rivet Member
 
2012 20' Flying Cloud
2006 31' Classic
Rincon , Georgia
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 19
I saw where camp world has a fitting with a drain valve to replace the water heater plug. This seems like a good idea. Anybody try it? Any downside?
__________________
richarus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2015, 03:02 PM   #346
Figment of My Imagination
 
Protagonist's Avatar
 
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over , More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,300
Quote:
Originally Posted by richarus View Post
I saw where camp world has a fitting with a drain valve to replace the water heater plug. This seems like a good idea. Anybody try it? Any downside?
I just installed one last week on my Interstate. Can be difficult to install in a 6-gallon Atwood because you can't put a socket on it to screw it in, and there's not much room to swing an open-end wrench without removing the shield first.

But once it's in, it works fine. Definitely need thread tape to make sure it doesn't leak, though.
__________________
WBCCI #1105
TAC LA-4

My Google-Fu is strong today.
Protagonist is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2015, 03:03 PM   #347
Rivet Master
 
Gene's Avatar
 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 10,840
I installed it a couple of years ago. True, the space is small and sharp edges can cut you. I finished tightening with a channel lock wrench. Much easier to drain the water heater, but you can still cut yourself.

Gene
__________________
Gene is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2015, 07:57 PM   #348
Moderator
 
jcanavera's Avatar

 
2004 30' Classic Slideout
Fenton , Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,002
Images: 143
Send a message via AIM to jcanavera Send a message via Skype™ to jcanavera
Getting ready for the freeze-Winterize

WhIle a valve would be nice, I consider the fact that I only pull this once a year. One of the advantages of pulling the entire plug out is that you can get any sediment out. This sediment is part of the problem of why heaters deteriate over time. In addition I use this tool to scour the insides of my tank. All the sedimentation stuck on the tank walls can be scoured off. I've never had to replace a water heater tank which I attribute to keeping the insides clean. Here's a link to the device. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...k-rinser/49070
__________________
Jack Canavera
STL Mo.
AIR #56
'04 Classic 30' S.O.,'03 GMC Savana 2500,'14 Honda CTX 700
jcanavera is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2015, 08:07 PM   #349
Figment of My Imagination
 
Protagonist's Avatar
 
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over , More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,300
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera View Post
WhIle a valve would be nice, I consider the fact that I only pull this once a year. One of the advantages of pulling the entire plug out is that you can get any sediment out. This sediment is part of the problem of why heaters deteriate over time. In addition I use this tool to scour the insides of my tank. All the sedimentation stuck on the tank walls can be scoured off. I've never had to replace a water heater tank which I attribute to keeping the insides clean. Here's a link to the device. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...k-rinser/49070
Water never goes into my water heater without being filtered first, and I never leave the plug out (before) or the valve open (now) long enough for anything else to make its way in.

But just to be sure, the first time I hook up to municipal water (through a filter) after un-winterizing, I leave the valve open for a while and let some of the new water run out of the water heater through the drain before closing the drain to let the heater fill, thus washing out any accumulated sediment in the process.
__________________
WBCCI #1105
TAC LA-4

My Google-Fu is strong today.
Protagonist is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2015, 12:02 PM   #350
Rivet Master
 
Gene's Avatar
 
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction , Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 10,840
Every year when winterizing or summerizing, I wonder how much water is left in the tank and whether sediment has collected there. The owner's manual says some water remains in the tank regardless of what you do short of sucking it out. Since there's plenty of expansion room, freezing the remaining water is not a problem.

I try to flush all the stuff out of the bottom (it doesn't matter whether you have a valve or a plug for that), but I can't tell what is on the bottom without buying a TV camera on a probe. I don't think sediment will damage the tank, but water eventually will. I don't recall a sacrificial anode and that would be the best way to save the tank, or use only an electric water heater (if you have duel fuel, use only the electric option). Electric heaters don't corrode as quickly. I too filter the water, but the filters are rated at 2-5 microns (how can you be 2 to 5, that makes no sense) and smaller stuff may be a problem, but the main reason to filter is to eliminate bacteria.

I don't know if there is an anode available for these water heaters—maybe I should look.

Breaking news! I looked and they are sold on Amazon for $11-12. It looks like they screw into the drain plug hole meaning you can't have a valve there too. One way or the other, it is a conspiracy to cut my hand every year. Maybe I'll order one.

Gene
__________________

__________________
Gene is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
winterizing


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Getting Road Ready Devoman Our Community 0 10-27-2011 09:32 AM
Hindenburger Ready to Roll Nashville Wheels, Hubs & Bearings 2 09-02-2011 05:55 AM
Winterize For One Night? jambie Winterizing, Storage, Carports & Covers 15 03-22-2011 10:33 PM
Heavy Freeze / burst Pipes / New WH and Pump? robwok Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 5 03-03-2011 10:06 AM
Ready To Begin Tear Down To Frame.?.?! Althea68 Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 11 01-26-2011 05:28 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:46 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.